Xiangyun Tianma Tofu

Xiangyun Tianma Tofu

　　Xiangyun Tianma Tofu is a local delicacy from Xiangyun in Dali. Legend has it that tofu was first created during the Han Dynasty by Liu An, the King of Huainan, before later spreading to the general public. Tofu has become a dish that can grace both imperial banquets and the tables of ordinary families—it is one of the most widely enjoyed and influential foods in Chinese cuisine, celebrated for thousands of years. But what makes Tianma tofu somewhat well-known? To find out, I spoke with several elderly tofu makers. They explained that Tianma was formerly called Mafang, an ancient transportation hub and bustling trade center. In the past, stables were set up here to accommodate horse caravans, hence the name "Mafang" (literally "Horse Stable"). During the Ming Dynasty, the village began producing tofu. Due to the unique quality of the local water and years of accumulated craftsmanship, the tofu produced here is fine-textured, white as snow, delicious, flavorful, and comes in a wide variety of types—earning Tianma tofu a widespread reputation. Even today, the local saying “Mafang tofu—no need to overcook it” remains a common phrase among Xiangyun residents. Here, “overcook” (多督) in the local dialect means “cook too long,” implying that Tianma tofu requires little cooking to absorb flavors well.

　　The “Southwest Silk Road” is a renowned ancient trade route. At the intersection of this historic path lies Tianma, an ancient post station situated where Shuimu Mountain—one of the Buddhist sacred sites in western Yunnan—and the natural wonder Tianhua Mountain meet. This otherwise unassuming village, blessed with uniquely mineral-rich water and abundant soybean production, has seen generations of villagers take up tofu-making as their trade, earning it the title of Xiangyun’s “Number One Tofu Village.”

　　Tianma tofu can be prepared in many ways: pan-fried tofu, stewed tofu, spicy tofu, pickled tofu, fried puffed tofu, braised tofu, scallion stir-fried tofu, steamed tofu, cold tossed tofu, as well as tofu skin, tofu shreds, and fried fermented black beans. When visiting Tianma, you may not have time to try all these delicious tofu dishes, but you must definitely have a bowl of fresh tofu: served in a blue-and-white porcelain bowl, the snowy-white fresh tofu is topped with more than ten seasonings including mustard, preserved winter vegetables, sesame oil, ground peanuts, crushed walnuts, prickly ash oil, shredded ginger, mashed garlic, pepper, and chili sauce. Just the sight of it is a feast for the eyes, and its flavor is truly one of Xiangyun’s culinary highlights. According to some sources, fresh tofu also offers health benefits such as nourishing yin, cooling the body, calming the nerves, cooling the blood, and detoxifying.