Three-Course Tea
The “Three-Course Tea” is a unique hospitality custom of the Bai people. It is said that this “Three-Course Tea” originated as a ritual for the Bai families to welcome their sons-in-law
and tea tasting, as an art, was recorded as early as in the Tang Dynasty’s Manshu. Over a thousand years ago, during the Nanzhao era, the Bai people had already developed the habit of drinking tea. With the development of life, it evolved into a distinctive tea culture and became a unique hospitality custom of the Bai people. By the Ming Dynasty, serving tea to guests had become an established etiquette among the Bai people.
When Xu Xiake visited Dali back then, he was also moved by this unique custom. In his famous work The Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake, he gave a vivid description of this Bai tea ceremony: “Tea is poured for enjoyment—first clear tea, then salted tea, and finally honeyed tea.”
Traditionally, the Bai Three-Course Tea was usually prepared and served by elders within the family or clan. Nowadays, younger generations may also serve tea to their elders. The preparation methods and ingredients used for each of the three courses differ. The first course is called the “Bitter Tea,” symbolizing the philosophy of life: “To achieve success, one must endure hardship first.” The second course is known as the “Sweet Tea.” After the guests finish the first tea, the host prepares a new batch using a small earthenware pot to roast and brew the tea. Meanwhile, a small amount of brown sugar, dairy fan (a type of cheese), and cinnamon are added to the teacup. The brewed tea is then poured into the cup until it is about four-fifths full. The third course is called the “Aftertaste Tea.” Although it is brewed the same way, the ingredients in the teacup are changed to include an appropriate amount of honey, a little puffed rice, a few Sichuan peppercorns, and a small spoonful of crushed walnuts. The tea is typically filled to about six or seven-tenths full. When drinking the third tea, it is customary to gently swirl the cup to mix the tea and ingredients evenly while making a “hoo-hoo” sound, then drink it while it is still hot. This tea offers a blend of sweet, sour, bitter, and spicy flavors, leaving a rich and lingering aftertaste. It serves as a reminder to people to reflect deeply on experiences and to remember the philosophy that “bitterness comes before sweetness.” (Dali)
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