Jiānchuān Tǔbāwǎn (Eight-Earthenware-Bowl Feast)

Jiānchuān Tǔbāwǎn

　　Hospitality is a cherished virtue of the Bai people in Jiānchuān. Whenever distinguished guests arrive from afar, they are treated to a lavish banquet known as Tǔbāwǎn. This traditional feast has a long history. Legend has it that it originated as a state banquet used by Duan Bái Wáng, the king of the Dali Kingdom, to entertain sixteen kings from neighboring South and Southeast Asian countries. Since most of these nations practiced Buddhism, the dishes were thoughtfully arranged with a mix of meat and vegetarian options. As Duan Bái Wáng was originally from Jiānchuān, the feast later spread among the local people and became a beloved culinary tradition for entertaining guests, continuing to this day for nearly a thousand years. The Tǔbāwǎn features a balanced mix of meat and vegetables, with delicious and pleasing flavors suitable for all ages. It also conveys the deep affection of the Bai people, emphasizing meaning and sentiment, reflecting the hospitable spirit of the Bai ethnic group and rich cultural characteristics.

　　The Tǔbāwǎn not only carries beautiful symbolism but also has names for each dish that imply good fortune and blessings. These are:

　　Longevity; Abundance Year After Year.

　　Peace for a Thousand Years; Harmony and Unity.

　　Endless Affection; Comfort and Ease.

　　Love for a Hundred Years; A Hundred Years of Harmony.

　　When hosting the most esteemed guests, two additional dishes are served: “Prosperity Shines Bright, Refreshing and Clear” and “Smooth Sailing Soup from Afar.”

　　① “Longevity,” also known as “Red Rice Pork.” Made by cooking pork belly with red yeast rice through a special process, it is believed to bring blessings and longevity. Its color comes not from artificial dyes but from the natural red yeast rice. The meat is first fried and simmered to reduce fat, resulting in a fragrant and refreshing taste.

　　② “Abundance Year After Year,” also known as “Steamed Fish with Rice Flour.” Made by steaming fish together with rice flour. The word “fish” sounds like “surplus,” symbolizing prosperity and abundance every year.

　　③ “Peace for a Thousand Years,” also known as “Thousand-Layer Pork.” The pork slices are cut into long, thin pieces, symbolizing a smooth and flat life journey and peace for a thousand years.

　　④ “Harmony and Unity,” also known as “Wood Ear and Tofu.” Though black and white ingredients are cooked together, they complement each other harmoniously without clashing. The “wood” sound symbolizes “harmony and unity.” Legend has it that the black-and-white “tofu and wood ear” dish also carries deep diplomatic symbolism from ancient times, representing two countries with different systems and religions sitting down to eat together—just like wood ear and tofu—thereby fostering neighborly friendship from then on.

　　⑤ “Comfort and Ease,” also known as “Crispy Pork with Bamboo Shoots.” The term “crispy” is a homophone implying relaxation, while bamboo shoots represent honesty and integrity in dealing with others.

　　⑥ “Endless Affection,” also known as “Glass Noodles.” The noodles are made as long as possible, ideally with no visible ends, symbolizing enduring relationships, everlasting bonds, and continuous affection.

　　⑦ “Love for a Hundred Years,” also known as “Golden Thread Vine Beans.” Since the poem “Yearning” mentions “red beans grow in the southern land,” red beans have been known as the beans of longing in the south. But the Bai people regard white as the purest color, so they use spotless golden thread vine beans as beans of longing. The character “坛 (jar)” is a homophone for “圆 (round/complete),” representing “love for a hundred years, complete and fulfilled.” This dish is also believed to nourish kidneys and benefit the spleen.

　　⑧ “A Hundred Years of Harmony,” also known as “Lily and Pork Meatballs.” When lily petals are placed over minced pork filling, the two elements adhere closely, becoming one, symbolizing harmony and unity for a hundred years.

　　The final dish is a platter called “Prosperity Shines Bright” and “Refreshing and Clear.” It consists of traditional Bai cured duck eggs, sausages, blown liver, sliced meat, and a cold dish of tree fungus tossed with chili and mashed garlic. The duck egg is placed in the center of the platter, symbolizing the sun and moon shining together. “Refreshing and clear” uses Bai linguistic puns—the words for “chili” and “garlic” sound like “close” and “refreshing”—to express warm sentiments: when everyone eats together in such a loving atmosphere, they become like family.

　　An additional soup, “Smooth Sailing Soup,” also known as “Shrimp Soup,” is made with diced jelly noodles, diced tofu, garlic sprouts, and fried rice. The “garlic” sounds like “smooth,” and the shrimp, being creatures of the water, drifting smoothly downstream, symbolize a safe and prosperous journey. This tradition originates from when carpenters from Jiānchuān went far away from home. Before departing, their families would prepare a pack of fish and shrimp from Jiān Lake for them to eat. The soup’s aroma is comforting, and seeing these familiar items stirs homesickness, expressing longing for family and symbolizing smooth travels and lasting attachment to one’s hometown.

　　Source: Dali Prefecture Tourism Development Administration Committee