Bai tie-dye

Bai tie-dye

Bai tie-dye is a national intangible cultural heritage.

　　 Tie-dye fabric is a unique craft product of the Bai people, commonly seen in both urban and rural areas of Dali. Tie-dye not only represents a tradition but has also become a fashion trend. When travelers carry these tie-dye pieces from their local origins to all corners of the country and even abroad, it seems as though the footsteps of this ancient art have seamlessly connected with contemporary times, leaving one amazed by its uniquely captivating charm.

　　 The popularity of tie-dye stems from its distinctive character, setting it apart from other dyed fabrics. It is simple and natural, with elegant white patterns on a blue background that are understated yet pleasing, resonating with human sensibilities and closely tied to daily life. It exudes a human touch, embodying the virtues and sentiments of the Bai people—hardworking, plain, pure, honest, kind, optimistic, cheerful, and hospitable. Legend has it that it was transformed from the streams of Mount Cangshan or woven by fairies as a gift to the mortal world... Wearing or using tie-dye is not only aesthetically pleasing but also symbolizes ingenuity and wisdom. In people's minds, it has almost become the most dazzling and distinctive cultural emblem and a hallmark of traditional ethnic art in Dali.

　　 Tie-dye, historically known as "jiao xie," is a long-established fabric dyeing technique. In Dali, it is referred to as "ge da hua bu" or "ge da hua." Since it is primarily produced in Dali and most practitioners are Bai people, it is also called Dali tie-dye or Bai tie-dye. The tie-dye craft emerged quite early. In the Song Dynasty painting "Dali Kingdom Scroll," two warriors following the king in a Buddhist ceremony are depicted wearing cloth headdresses remarkably similar to traditional blue-background small white-flower tie-dye patterns, possibly offering a direct visual record of Dali tie-dye used in clothing nearly a thousand years ago. By the Republican era, home-based tie-dyeing had become widespread, and towns such as Zhoucheng and Xizhou, known for their dense clusters of family-run tie-dye workshops, had already become famous tie-dye hubs. In 1984, a tie-dye factory was established in Zhoucheng, engaging nearly 5,000 women in the flower-tying process. Over 80% of the products were exported to more than 10 countries and regions, including Japan, the UK, the US, and Canada, and demand often outstripped supply. Visitors here can see women busy tying flowers and households engaged in dyeing, making it an important production center for tie-dye fabrics.

　　 The fabric used for tie-dye was traditionally made entirely of coarse, handwoven white cotton cloth by the Bai people. Today, such handmade cloth is less common, with industrial machine-woven raw white cloth, packaging cloth, and similar materials being primarily used. These fabrics are highly absorbent and soft in texture. The production mainly involves three processes: flower-tying, soaking and dyeing, and rinsing and drying. Flower-tying, originally called "tying knots," involves selecting the fabric and then using methods such as pinching, folding, rolling, and twisting according to the desired pattern to shape it into specific forms. These are then tightly stitched or bound with needle and thread, turning the fabric into a series of “knots.” Next comes the soaking and dyeing process, where the knotted fabric is immersed in a dye vat for a set period before being taken out to dry. This immersion and drying cycle is repeated several times. Finally, the fabric is rinsed in clean water to remove excess dye, dried, and then the threads are removed to open the knots. The parts tightly bound and stitched by the threads resist dyeing, resulting in hollow white patterns known as the “flower,” while the rest turns a deep blue, forming the “background.” At this point, a beautiful piece of tie-dye fabric is complete. The transition between the “flower” and the “background” often exhibits natural gradient effects and ice-crack patterns, creating a lively and dynamic appearance that overcomes the rigidity of conventional designs, making the overall aesthetic more rich and natural. Traditional dyes are mainly made from indigo and Chinese indigo root. Compared to chemical dyes, they offer more natural hues, fade more slowly, are gentler on the fabric, durable, comfortable to wear, and do not irritate human skin. It is said that dyes like indigo root also possess certain anti-inflammatory and cooling properties, which are beneficial to health. In today’s era of returning to nature and advocating wellness, tie-dye fabric is widely used to make clothing, bedding, pillowcases, tablecloths, and other items that come into close contact with the skin, making it especially popular among people.