Eryuan Bowfish

Eryuan Bowfish

　　The tender and delicious bowfish is a unique specialty of Erhai Lake. Bowfish? It doesn’t look like a bow—but it earned the name because it can leap out of the water with its mouth holding its tail, forming a bow-like shape. It has abundant roe, few bones, a small gallbladder, and a delicious taste. Each fish weighs about 2 to 5 taels (100–250 grams), so locals typically sell them by count rather than by weight—four fish make up a jin (500 grams). Bowfish particularly favor clear, fast-flowing waters. Between the fifth and sixth lunar months, they lay their eggs on the sandy bottom. The surviving fry also thrive in turbulent currents, which contributes to the exceptionally fresh flavor of the fish. A Qing Dynasty poet, Shixiang, once praised it with the lines: “Tender belly filled with nectar, round back charming in spring wine.” The local Bai people call it “Erhai Flower,” and it is highly sought after. When taking it away, it is often cooked and prepared for travel as an accompanying dish for drinks—giving rise to the saying, “Bowfish travels far and wide.”

　　 Known as the “Pearl of the Plateau,” Erhai Lake in Dali is the largest freshwater lake in Yunnan’s Hengduan Mountains in terms of water volume and boasts crystal-clear water. It is rich in natural resources, with over 10 types of fish alone, among which the bowfish is the most famous.

　　　　Also called Gongyu, the bowfish gets its name from its bow-like shape when leaping. As early as the Tang Dynasty, it was sent as a tribute to the capital Chang’an, hence it is also known as “Tribute Fish.” Yang Shen, a renowned scholar and top imperial examinee exiled to Yunnan during the Ming Dynasty, praised the bowfish as the “king of fish.” The bowfish is silver in color, with a long, round-backed body, no scales, and few bones. Adult fish weigh about 2 to 3 taels each; the meat is delicate, flavorful, high in protein, and nutritious. The ancient text *Gu Jin Tu Shu Ji Cheng · Qin Chong Dian* describes the bowfish as: “Found in Erhai Lake, resembling a minnow but with fine scales, and not even a foot long.” *Xin Zhuan Yunnan Tongzhi · Wuchan Kao* states: “Gongyu, also called Gong or Gong. The fish resembles a minnow with fine scales, not even a foot long, with delicate meat, few bones, rich and delicious roe, and can be preserved and eaten.” The peak season for bowfish is in spring when peach blossoms are in full bloom. The best way to cook it is in a clear broth with green fava beans—this dish is called “Peach Blossom Fish.” Yang Shen of Dali from the Qing Dynasty wrote, “Inner belly filled with nectar, round back charming in spring wine,” referring to the tradition of enjoying bowfish in spring.

　　　　Historically, the yield of Erhai bowfish was very high. In the 1960s, tons of salted bowfish were transported by truck along the Burma Road to Kunming, then distributed to other provinces or westward to Myanmar for sale in Southeast Asian countries. After the 1970s, due to damage to the ecological environment of Erhai Lake, the bowfish population sharply declined, and it has become very rare to find today. In recent years, relevant authorities have taken measures to carry out conservation, management, and research efforts, and small-scale reproduction has been observed in the upstream tributaries of Erhai Lake.