Fuyuan Pickled Vegetables

Fuyuan Pickled Vegetables

　　The reason Fuyuan pickled vegetables have become representative of a local specialty lies in their unique flavor and distinctive production method.

　　Typically, pickled vegetables are made by washing, drying, and chopping leafy greens, then mixing them with salt, chili, Sichuan peppercorns, and various other seasonings, kneading them together, and placing them in a jar to seal. They are then left to naturally ferment through microbial activity to form a tangy sourness. Such pickled vegetables fall under the category of preserved vegetables and are usually used to stimulate the appetite or as an ingredient in other dishes. Dishes loved by people in Qujing, such as pickled vegetable pork mince or pickled vegetable potatoes, simply cannot do without them. The process from making to eating generally takes around ten to fifteen days, and the longer they are kept, the more sour and flavorful they become.

　　In comparison, Fuyuan pickled vegetables indeed have their own unique qualities. First, in terms of preparation, authentic Fuyuan pickled vegetables use high-quality radishes and baby bok choy as the main ingredients—baby bok choy is used if available, otherwise regular leafy greens are substituted. Even the radish greens are not discarded. A pot of boiling water is first prepared, with a small amount of starch and flour added. The washed and finely shredded radishes and cut-up greens are blanched in this mixture, then scooped out and placed into a jar. The jar is then covered and placed near a stove, and within a night it turns sour and is ready to eat the next day. Not only is the production cycle much shorter than that of ordinary preserved vegetables, but no additional seasonings are required—it’s purely the original, unadulterated flavor. A small amount of “starter” is also usually added to freshly made pickled vegetables, which is the sour brine from aged pickled vegetables, locally referred to as the “base.” The flavor of pickled vegetables made by different households varies, and it’s all due to this “base.” Because the microbial communities within the “base” are complex and diverse, the resulting pickled vegetables naturally have slight differences. It’s similar to how the color, aroma, and taste of Sichuan preserved meats vary depending on the age and uniqueness of the old brine used. Therefore, those new to making Fuyuan pickled vegetables must get a bowl of sour brine from someone who makes it well to use as their own “starter.”

　　Once prepared, Fuyuan pickled vegetables are visually a mix of green and white; in texture, they are sticky and smooth; and in taste, they are purely and intensely sour. Their ways of being eaten are also vastly different from ordinary pickled vegetables. By this point, Fuyuan pickled vegetables have truly become a “vegetable” in their own right, rather than a preserved food or seasoning. The most representative way to eat them in the past was in a red bean pickled vegetable soup, where well-cooked old red beans were boiled together with the pickled vegetables. When served, a bit of crushed chili powder and salt were added, making for a light, soft, and refreshing dish. Nowadays, with greatly enriched lives, adding ham, pig’s trotters, chicken, or fish to cook together with the pickled vegetables, then branding it with the name “Fuyuan,” turns it into a uniquely distinctive flavored dish. Despite being served in a big steaming pot that looks and smells delicious, people actually prefer picking out the pickled vegetables to eat—the chicken or fish then become mere accompaniments. The best part is still the soup, which is sour yet fresh, rich yet not greasy. Not only is it deliciously tangy and appetizing, but it also aids digestion and strengthens the spleen.

　　Tracing back to its roots, it’s unclear how many years of history Fuyuan pickled vegetables actually have. Who originally made that first “base”? Could it be that the pickled vegetables we eat today were all fermented by the same type of microorganisms?

　　People who love Fuyuan pickled vegetables don’t concern themselves with these questions. They simply seek out the authentic Fuyuan pickled vegetables made by genuine Fuyuan locals. Amidst the boss’s thick Fuyuan accent, they banter like old friends: “Add a bit more Fuyuan pickled veg, yeah!”