Luoping Chicken Truffle

Luoping Chicken Truffle

　　As an entry, the *Cihai* (a Chinese encyclopedia) explains *jizong* (chicken truffle) as follows: a basidiomycete fungus of the family Agaricaceae. It grows on termite mounds in fields during the rainy season. When the cap first emerges, it is conical, then flattens out with a distinct central protrusion, with a surface that is dark brown or slightly yellow. The gills are white, turning slightly yellow when mature. It is found in southwestern China and Taiwan. It is edible and very delicious. *Zheng Yutong • Bu* interprets it as: *zongjun*, a tall-stemmed umbrella with a pointed tip, also called chicken truffle, comes from southern Yunnan. *Bencao Gangmu • Grass Section* dedicates an entire entry to "chicken truffle": "Chicken truffle... clears the stomach and refreshes the spirit, and treats hemorrhoids." No matter which dictionary you consult, the common thread in explaining chicken truffle is this: it is a type of fungus, and it tastes exquisite.

In Yunnan, chicken truffles are not rare, but what is truly rare are Luoping chicken truffles. The fame of Luoping chicken truffles has spread far and wide, and their reputation is earned through taste. In many places and among those well-known recipes and cuisines, chicken truffles are merely used as a flavor enhancer. They may prepare an entire chicken truffle feast, yet they can’t fully savor the original and authentic taste of chicken truffles, nor grasp their true essence. Luoping is different. The people of Luoping eat chicken truffles to enjoy their pure, unadulterated flavor. Every year during July and August, Luoping chicken truffles flood the streets—this is the golden season to enjoy them. During this time, whether in the luxurious restaurants of hotels or the humble food stalls on the streets, Luoping chicken truffles become their shared signature dish. No restaurant here treats them as mere flavoring. In Luoping, there are only two ways to eat chicken truffles: chicken truffle soup and stir-fried chicken truffles. Whether you’re stewing or stir-frying, the chicken truffle is the absolute star, usually without any other ingredients mixed in, at most just a few slices of green chili. This way, the chicken truffle you’re served is the purest form of itself—the umami, the fragrant aroma, that sweet aftertaste hidden deep in the earth, and that elusive, otherworldly flavor that lingers in your memory.

Of course, there’s more to eating Luoping chicken truffles than just making soup or stir-frying them. Luoping produces a lot of rapeseed oil, which has led to a magical and perfect combination between Luoping chicken truffles and vegetable oil: fried chicken truffle oil. Chicken truffle oil fried in Luoping rapeseed oil is extraordinarily aromatic, making it an excellent condiment for cold dishes or breakfast, as well as a wonderful gift for friends and family.

Don’t assume that just because Luoping chicken truffles are sold everywhere, anyone can find them growing in the fields of Luoping. Chicken truffles are elusive, almost mythical creatures. They are reserved for those hardworking and kind-hearted common folk who rise with the dawn, wear straw hats, don rain capes, and toil day and night. Aside from them, no one else can hope to find them. From this perspective, chicken truffles become a divine gift, a legend imbued with both spiritual and ethereal essence.

Visiting Luoping during the chicken truffle season is truly a delight. Although the endless sea of rapeseed flowers may be gone by then, don’t forget how majestic the Nine Dragons Waterfall cluster is during the high-water season. The waterfalls are truly at their most spectacular at this time. Viewing the waterfalls in Luoping now isn’t just about seeing waterfalls—it’s about truly experiencing their boundless charm. More importantly, you get to savor some of the most delicious mountain delicacies in the world.

Generally speaking, once you’ve eaten Luoping chicken truffles, you won’t want to try those from other places; Luoping chicken truffles make those from elsewhere seem like mere fungi at best. As for Luoping chicken truffle oil, you can usually buy it whenever you come, and even if the stores are out of stock, a polite request to the owner of the eatery where you’re dining will often get you what you want.