Salted Fish

Salted Fish

　　Salted fish can be preserved for a long time and has a unique flavor, combining the spicy aroma of cured fish with the sweet freshness of live fish. The meat is tender and exceptionally refreshing to eat.

　　Making salted fish is surprisingly simple: after gutting, descaling, and cleaning the fish, boil an appropriate amount of water, salt, and various seasonings in a pot, then add the fish. Simmer it slowly over low heat until all the water has evaporated. Of course, one essential seasoning is Sichuan peppercorns and their leaves—without them, the salted fish won’t have its signature fragrance. But making truly great salted fish isn’t easy, especially getting the heat just right during cooking. You must never flip the fish while it’s cooking, or the flesh will break apart, affecting both appearance and appetite. Avoid stirring the fish either; be careful not to burn it, but also don’t leave too much moisture—otherwise, the flavor will be too bland, and the fish won’t keep well. Over the years, locals have developed a set of best practices: first, don’t use too much water in the pot, and second, keep the heat low so the cooked fish turns out firm and springy. Naturally, the brine used for cooking must also be carefully prepared—for best results, use the brine from curing dried fish. If that’s unavailable, sauté the salt in the pot until it turns slightly red before adding water. Well-made salted fish should be tough enough to resist breaking when picked up with chopsticks, with a perfectly balanced saltiness. Stored in a pickle jar, it can last a year or two without losing flavor.

　　For families living around Fuxian Lake, making salted fish is truly a skill every housewife masters. Farmers around the lake mostly make a living by fishing, and any unsold or leftover catch is taken home, where skilled wives turn it into delicious salted fish stored in jars. On days when there’s no fresh dish, steaming a few pieces makes for a delightful family meal. The finest variety of salted fish is the Kanglang fish. Though small in size, it has soft bones, tender meat, and a deliciously fresh taste. Since it lives in the unpolluted waters of Fuxian Lake and feeds on microorganisms, even its internal organs are clean—so there’s no need to gut it before cooking. Sadly, Kanglang fish have become increasingly rare these days; catching a glimpse is fortunate enough, let alone tasting one.

　　As for the origin of salted fish, historical records offer an amusing anecdote: During the Kangxi Emperor’s reign, an official from Yunnan named Zhao returned home for a visit and brought back salted fish from Xianhu (Fuxian Lake) as a specialty to the capital. One day, after court dismissal, he hosted colleagues at home and served them salted fish. The aroma filled the room, and everyone praised its deliciousness. Just then, the Emperor happened to be passing by outside the wall when he caught the enticing scent. Upon learning it was coming from the official’s residence, he entered the courtyard to investigate. All the officials knelt to welcome him, and the Emperor asked sternly, “My lords, what fine dish are you enjoying here? Do you not fear I might accuse you of deceiving the throne?” The Yunnan official hastily presented the salted fish and explained, “This humble product comes from my hometown—I wouldn’t dare offer it to Your Majesty.” The Emperor tasted it but said nothing. After a long pause, he remarked, “Such a delicacy belongs in heaven, not on earth. How could mortals taste it more than a few times? This must be an imperial tribute!” From then on, salted fish was listed as an imperial offering, delivered to the palace every year.