Zhou’s Pork Belly Rice Noodles

Zhou’s Pork Belly Rice Noodles

　　When it comes to the famous and distinctive Yuxi-style foods, those from Chengjiang who lived in the 1930s and 1940s all unanimously praise the delicious pork belly rice noodles. Especially the rice noodle shop run by the two brothers, Zhou Pei and Zhou Can, became widely known across all age groups and earned a great reputation throughout the county.

In the late Qing Dynasty during the reign of Emperor Guangxu, Zhou Hongxiang, a scholar from Xinxing Prefecture (Yuxi), went to Heyang County (then the prefectural seat) to take the examination for the title of Xiangsheng (a type of scholar or scholar-candidate, similar to a junior degree), but failed. He then rented a shop space at Dushi Bridge in the county town to open a teahouse, which enjoyed fairly brisk business. Later, he moved his family from Xinxing to live in Heyang and also brought the local delicacy of Shanyu (rice noodles with eel) from Xinxing Prefecture to Heyang, setting up an additional eel rice noodle stall in front of the teahouse. At first, the locals in Heyang found this quite novel, and many came to try it. However, influenced by Buddhist beliefs, people generally thought that eels were creatures meant to be “released for merit,” and eating them was considered a “sin,” especially among women, who not only dared not eat them but even avoided cooking eels at home. As a result, the number of people eating eel rice noodles gradually declined. Zhou Hongxiang adapted to local customs and changed the eel rice noodles to pork belly rice noodles, restoring business to normal.

The rice used by the Zhous to make their rice noodles was specially purchased at a premium price — it was winter-harvested rice from a specific field known as Yibao Tian. Soaking the rice was handled by an experienced specialist. After soaking, the rice was ground into a paste using a stone mill, then the moisture was pressed out to form rice cakes, which were cooked in a pot. Once cooked, the cakes were taken out, crushed and kneaded into strips using a stone pestle, then put back into the pot to cook again. Skilled artisans controlled the heat to cook the noodles to the perfect texture, neither too soft nor too hard, before further refining them with the stone pestle. They were then kneaded into cylinders, placed inside a wooden press, and extruded into noodles, which dropped into boiling water to become the final product. The resulting noodles, processed through so many meticulous steps, were smooth and refreshing in the mouth, neither too soft nor too hard — a taste that kept people coming back for more.

The pork belly used as the “topping” for the noodles was also carefully prepared. Only the finest pork from the shoulder was selected. It was first rinsed clean, then cut into palm-sized squares and boiled in an iron pot. When the broth turned white and the meat was tender enough to pierce with chopsticks, it was removed and placed in an earthenware pot, which was then set in the center of the stove. Rough bran was used as fuel, and the meat was simmered overnight over a low, smoldering fire until it was ready for use the next day. This kind of pork was rich but not greasy, with distinct layers — even those who didn’t usually like fatty meat would find it melting in their mouths, comfortable and delicious. The soup used to braise the pork belly served as a key ingredient in the noodles — the “aged broth” — while the clear soup used also had its own unique character, being made from a blend of fresh meat and pork bone marrow, offering a taste that was both savory and sweet.

The other ingredients in Zhou’s pork belly rice noodles were also uniquely selected. The chili peppers were sourced from Yiliang. When making fried chili oil, the chili powder was fried in oil that had been heated to a high temperature and then cooled down to a certain level. This resulted in chili oil that had the right kick, bright red color, and fragrant aroma — a favorite among locals. The soy sauce used was all premium-quality, well-regarded products purchased from Tonghai and Yuxi. The Sichuan pepper oil was also custom-ordered and made from authentic peppercorns. Pickled vegetables were made year-round by a dedicated person, and only the lower parts of leeks were used, with the leafy tips discarded.

After the outbreak of the War of Resistance, Sun Yat-sen University relocated to Chengjiang. Adapting to the dietary habits of fellow compatriots from coastal areas, the Zhou brothers came up with a unique creation: “hot and cold rice noodles.” This involved serving cold rice noodles in a bowl without blanching them with hot water. Instead, clear broth, aged broth, and various seasonings were added, along with a small amount of sweet-and-sour vinegar. This gave the dish a unique flavor and earned lasting acclaim that has endured over time.