Beef and Pickled Mustard Greens

Beef and Pickled Mustard Greens

　　Only after coming to Yunnan did I realize that the locals’ love for spicy food is no less than that of people in Sichuan, Hunan, or Jiangxi. In the Wa ethnic villages, almost every household hangs strings of dried “shuan la” peppers above their fire pits. Shuan la is a specialty of the Wa Mountains—about the size of a thumb, irregularly oval in shape, and much spicier than inland chili peppers. It could be called the spiciest of all chilies. It is named “shuan la” (literally “dipped chili”) because simply dipping it into a pot of broth is enough to make the dish extremely spicy.

The pickled mustard greens used in beef and pickled mustard greens are different from those in Northeast China—they are specially made dried ones by the Wa people. According to locals, the process involves cutting a two-foot-long section of dragon bamboo, cleaning and drying it, then packing it tightly with leafy greens. A certain amount of rice soup is added, and the bamboo tube is sealed with roasted banana leaves. It is then placed next to the cooking hearth to heat up. After a few days of fermentation, the tube is opened, and the contents are bundled with bamboo strips and sun-dried. The result has a unique bamboo fragrance not found in northern-style pickled mustard greens.

To make beef and pickled mustard greens, beef jerky that is about 70% dry is boiled together with a handful of small red beans and a handful of upland rice until soft, then mixed with chopped pickled mustard greens soaked in warm water. The mixture is cooked until the broth becomes thick and sticky. Then, seasonings such as chili peppers, Sichuan peppercorns, shredded ginger, trifoliate leaves, and five-spice leaves are added. Half a spoonful of beef tallow is rendered, and a piece of hot salt rock is placed in the spoon before quickly pouring it into the pot and stirring well. Finally, green onions and mint are sprinkled on top before serving.

Eating beef and pickled mustard greens, paired with a few sips of corn wine, is truly delightful. In the land of the Wa people, it feels like making any dish is akin to brewing liquor—requiring a great deal of effort.