Preserved Pork Hotpot

Preserved Pork Hotpot

　　“The joy of hosting honored guests with a bubbling hotpot, Also the delight in chicken and pork, flavors most rich; But if you ask how we make ends meet day to day, Alas, our meals are mostly sweet potatoes.” This “Bamboo Branch Poem” was written in 1862 (the first year of the Tongzhi reign) by Liu Hongdian, an education officer in Xichong, praising the hardworking and hospitable people of Xichong. The opening two lines are a tribute to Xichong’s preserved pork hotpot.

　　 The hotpot tradition in Xichong, like that across China, boasts a long history. Legend has it that it began in the time of the Yellow Emperor, developed during the Han and Tang dynasties, refined in the Song dynasty, and flourished in the Qing dynasty.

　　 What sets Xichong’s preserved pork hotpot apart is its preserved pork. The preserved pork of Xichong is unique in several ways: first, it is meticulously prepared and can be stored for a long time without spoiling; second, it has a golden color, is dry and firm; and third, it boasts a rich aroma and delicious taste without being greasy. Legend says that every household has been making it since the Han dynasty. Typically, around the time of the Winter Solstice, families slaughter pigs for curing. Slaughtering the pig is called “slaughtering the New Year pig,” and curing the meat is called “curing New Year preserved pork.” The curing method involves preparing ten pounds of pork, mixing one pound of flower salt and five qian of Sichuan peppercorns, stir-frying the mixture until hot, then rubbing it onto the freshly butchered pork. The meat is then placed in a clay jar, pressed tightly, and cured for seven to ten days, with a midway remixing to ensure evenness. After curing, the pork is taken out, rinsed with lukewarm water, hung in a ventilated area, and left to dry—thus completing the process.

　　 Xichong’s preserved pork comes in two types: “large knife” (weighing around four pounds) and “small knife” (weighing about one pound). The large knife is also known as “large block preserved pork,” and the small knife as “small block preserved pork.” Special varieties include cured pig head and trotters, cured pig tail and belly, cured heart and tongue, cured liver and kidney, cured back stripe, cured pork ribs, and cured sausages—all referred to as “plate dishes,” mainly served to guests alongside alcohol. Additionally, there are cured large intestines, cured side fat, cured pork knuckles, and cured knife vegetables. Cured large intestines and cured side fat are generally for family consumption, while cured pork knuckles and cured knife vegetables are usually given as gifts. Alongside these, families also prepare cured chicken, cured rabbit, cured fish, cured beef, blood skin, and blood cake during the New Year pig slaughtering season.

　　 Xichong’s preserved pork hotpot is made by combining these various types of preserved pork with fresh vegetables and an appropriate amount of meat broth. As a result, it includes both meat and vegetables, dishes and broth, and can either complement a full banquet or stand alone as a complete meal. It works equally well as an alcoholic pairing or as a side to rice. When served as part of a formal banquet, there are options such as the “Four-Dish Hotpot,” “Seven-Dish Hotpot,” and “Nine-Dish Hotpot.” For the Four-Dish Hotpot, the four dishes are side dishes—half meat and half vegetables—that are served along with the hotpot. The Seven-Dish and Nine-Dish Hotpots feature the hotpot served along with the final four dishes. A standalone preserved pork hotpot banquet is a genuine all-preserved-pork affair, typically reserved for close family and friends. The hotpot itself is divided into three layers: the top layer consists of “plate dishes” like preserved sausages and cured heart and tongue; the middle layer features preserved pork, preferably with a balanced mix of fat and lean, usually three pieces per person, though some serve it pre-cut into domino-shaped slices for guests to take as they wish. The bottom layer includes fresh vegetables, soft tofu, blood skin, and bean sheets. All three layers can be eaten together, but typically the top layer is enjoyed with drinks, while the middle and bottom layers accompany meals. No matter whether it’s a standalone hotpot, Four-Dish, Seven-Dish, or Nine-Dish Hotpot, as the meal progresses, diners often continue adding broth to the pot or tossing in other dishes from the table to create a hearty stew-like mix, which tastes especially delicious. At this point, the hosts—both men and women—often come out of the kitchen to “urge eating,” often saying, “We may not have the finest wine or dishes, but we have warm hospitality. Please eat your fill.” This is when guest-host rapport reaches its peak. This traditional warmth and hospitality can still be widely found in both urban and rural areas today.

　　 Xichong’s preserved pork hotpot, along with China’s northern “Mutton Hotpot,” southern “Three-Delicacy Hotpot,” northeastern “White Meat Sliced Hotpot,” Shanghai’s “Chrysanthemum Sliced Meat Hotpot,” Guangdong’s “Seafood Hotpot,” Chongqing’s “Tripe Hotpot,” and Guangyuan’s “Beef and Mutton Hotpot,” has enriched human culinary and cultural life, and continues to be beloved. Today, Xichong’s preserved pork hotpot shows signs of encompassing the essence of hotpot culture nationwide. In the county seat alone, nearly ten restaurants of varying sizes—including Xichong Restaurant—have adopted the signboard “Mountain City Hotpot,” blending Chongqing’s “Tripe Hotpot” with both southern and northern styles of hotpot, as well as various sliced meat hotpots, creating a vibrant tapestry of flavors.