Preserved Lean Pork from Bashan

Preserved Lean Pork from Bashan

　　“Day and night I long for my love, yet find no words to say; at night I bid him come up to my wooden room. Though I have little to offer, I’ll cook him a slice of preserved lean pork.” This is a popular love song in the Daba Mountain area, closely associated with Bashan’s preserved lean pork.

　　Bashan preserved lean pork is a delicacy served to honored guests. “Great Cold and Lesser Cold, butcher the pig for the New Year.” As winter and the lunar year’s end approach, the people of the Daba Mountains are busy butchering their New Year pigs, salting the meat, and preparing cured pork for the holidays and future guests. This is not only the most common local custom but also a vivid depiction of regional traditions.

　　There is an art to curing the lean pork. The meat is divided into cuts based on fat and lean portions, coated with an appropriate amount of salt, and placed in a large wooden barrel or earthenware jar. A wooden lid is placed on top, and the meat is cured for ten days to half a month to allow the salt to fully dissolve and penetrate the lean parts. If the saltwater doesn’t fully dissolve, the cured lean pork, when sliced, will appear red outside and purple inside—turning into what locals call a “black-hearted liver.” This not only affects the uniformly bright red color that Bashan preserved lean pork is known for but also greatly reduces its aroma and makes it unappetizing. At the same time, the ratio of salt to pork must be just right; too much will make it hard to eat, while too little will leave it bland.

　　The cured pork is then hung above the hearth to be smoked—a process that also requires skill. It’s best to use dense smoke from aromatic wood such as cypress branches and wild wormwood to slowly smoke the meat. One must not rush the process to avoid charring the meat, which would compromise its quality. Once smoked and dried, the meat is cleaned of soot and hung in a dry, well-ventilated spot indoors to prevent mold and off-flavors. When ready to serve, depending on the number of guests, a large chunk is cut off, boiled, and sliced—resulting in a dish fit for welcoming guests in the Bashan region. Enjoying it with a drink while chatting and savoring the preserved lean pork bite by bite creates a truly delightful experience, with a unique flavor lingering in the heart.