Wushan Jade Moss Tofu

Wushan Jade Moss Tofu

　　I grew up in Wushan, surrounded by lush natural vegetation, often wandering through forests and moving through misty clouds, which fostered my deep love for the unique wild snacks of the mountains.

　　Every summer, dishes like wheat cakes, Houttuynia cordata, pickled ginger, boiled yellow ginger, and especially stinky tofu (Jade Moss Tofu), were always on the table. Since Wushan tourism opened up, Jade Moss Tofu has become a renowned local specialty snack of the Three Gorges, famous both at home and abroad.

　　But I often get asked by out-of-town visitors: What is Jade Moss Tofu made from? How is it made? Is it toxic? I’m usually at a loss for words. To uncover the origins and process of Jade Moss Tofu, I specifically consulted a local expert on this folk snack.

　　“Yi Tofu.”

　　“Yi Tofu” is his nickname. His family has been selling Jade Moss Tofu for three generations and is well-known throughout Wushan. CCTV once filmed a special documentary about his Tofu-making process. He now supplies Tofu to hotels and supermarkets of all sizes in Wushan. The jade-green Tofu he makes is crystal-clear, fragrant and lingering, with a delicate and smooth taste that’s refreshing like jelly. Eating it is like sipping a fine springtime mist tea—the subtlety is hard to put into words. It's a heavenly gift from the Goddess of Wushan, a true gem of the mountains.

　　With a mix of reverence and curiosity, I followed “Yi Tofu” up the mountain to pick leaves. He pointed to a shrub covered in small yellow flowers and told me that this was the tree used to make the Tofu. What a beautiful plant—the size and shape of its leaves are similar to tea leaves. I couldn’t believe that these ordinary-looking leaves could be so magical, capable of making such delicious Tofu. In no time, we had picked a big bag and headed home—it was much faster and easier than picking tea leaves.

　　Back at “Yi Tofu’s” home, I watched as he poured boiled water over the leaves, then stirred vigorously with a stick about the thickness of a wine glass. Five minutes later, the inky green juice looked incredibly enticing. He filtered it once through a bamboo colander, then a second time through gauze. I was tempted to scoop some out and try it right away. Next, he used a brine made purely from plant ash to coagulate the mixture, gently stirring it until it was evenly mixed, and then let it cool before it could be served. At this point, my impatience could only be described in the Wushan dialect as “my throat stretching out claws”—that eager feeling was hard to contain.

　　“Yi Tofu” is very easygoing. While waiting for the mixture to cool, he told me the legend of how our ancestors discovered this so-called “stinky tofu.” A long, long time ago, our ancestors lived in caves, and outside the caves grew these leaves. They often used branches and leaves to clean cooking utensils, and accidentally splashed water near the stove, where the ground was covered in plant ash. Strangely enough, the water in the pot immediately solidified into shiny green chunks, which intrigued the elders and compelled them to taste it. After trying something so delicious, they craved it every day, so they started boiling the leaves to extract the juice, mixing it with plant ash to make the Tofu. Because it was originally made with dishwater, it had a bit of a smell and was called “stinky tofu,” a name that stuck. But after Wushan tourism opened, visitors said such a delicious food shouldn’t be tainted by the word “stinky,” so it was renamed “Jade Moss Tofu.” Eating it in the summer is believed to have the benefit of clearing heat and cooling the body.

　　As we spoke, he had already cut the block of Jade Moss Tofu into small strips, placing them in bowls. One bowl was plain, and the other was mixed with various seasonings, and he placed them both in front of me. I savored this magical snack slowly, my thoughts drifting back 2.04 million years to the Longgupo site in Wushan, where the mysterious Wushan apes were happily enjoying this natural green treat, their expressions of joy forever frozen in my mind.