Dechang Savory Pancake

Dechang Savory Pancake

　　Dechang Savory Pancake

　　In Guangzhou, small fried snacks are called "oil wares," including savory ones like youtiao (fried dough sticks), sweet ones like niuyusi (ox-tongue pastry) and xiaokouzao (bursting jujube), as well as savory-sweet options like savory pancakes (youxiangbing). Among these, Dechang Savory Pancake is the most renowned, even earning praise among overseas Chinese.

　　Dechang Savory Pancake is famous for its vivid color and distinctive taste. Its creator was Tan Zu, a dim sum chef at Dechang Teahouse on Longjin Middle Road in Guangzhou. The pancake’s recipe originally derived from the Hui people's youxiangbing (oil fragrance pancake). In 1938, after painstaking efforts in seasoning and heat control, Tan Zu finally developed a savory pancake that was bright-colored, crispy-skinned, soft-centered, fragrant, and delicious. The ingredients include flour, light soy sauce, white sugar, brown sugar, red fermented tofu, and baking soda, and the frying is done over medium heat.

　　At that time, savory pancakes were sold all over Guangzhou, but none could match the taste and texture of those from Dechang. As a result, Dechang Savory Pancake gradually gained fame. In 1947, a Vietnamese overseas Chinese surnamed Zhao returned to Guangzhou and tasted Dechang Savory Pancake, praising it highly. Before leaving Guangzhou, he went to Dechang and bought several freshly fried savory pancakes, which he sealed in an iron can before flying back to Vietnam. Upon arrival, the pancakes were still crispy, soft, and flavorful. When his family tried them, they couldn’t stop raving about them. Word spread, and Dechang Savory Pancake became widely celebrated. In 1957, during the Guangzhou Municipal Government’s Famous Dishes and Delicacies Competition, Dechang Savory Pancake won first prize for best delicacy. That same year, Master Tan Zu, then just 50 years old, took on Chen Jin, only 22, as his apprentice. However, due to a later shortage of cooking oil, Dechang Savory Pancake disappeared from the scene until it made a comeback after the reform and opening-up period. By the mid-1980s, Dechang was producing 400 savory pancakes a day, yet still couldn't meet demand.

　　What makes the making of Dechang Savory Pancake unique is, first, the addition of red fermented tofu to enhance aroma—but only a type that is aged and particularly fragrant. In the past, Chef Tan would place the purchased red fermented tofu on the semi-shaded rooftop. When the sun came out, the tofu warmed up, and as the heat dissipated afterward, the repeated process of heating and cooling improved its fragrance. Secondly, the pancake uses a different sugar formula. While typical savory pancakes mix flour with white sugar, Chef Tan used equal parts white and brown sugar, doubling the usual quantity. This approach works because the white sugar creates a crispy crust, while the brown sugar ensures a soft center. Coupled with medium-heat frying and the large amount of sugar that absorbs more oil, the final product ends up with a crispy crust, soft center, and exceptionally fragrant, fluffy texture.