Hakka Delicacy: Mugwort Rice Cakes

Hakka Delicacy: Mugwort Rice Cakes

　　On the dining tables of the Hakka people, mugwort is quite a common ingredient. Every spring, clusters of mugwort sprout by the fields and streams, their green leaves spiraling upward like little pagodas—adorable in appearance. During this time, women would gather them and take them home. After steaming glutinous rice, they’d mix it with mugwort leaves and pound it into a sticky rice paste. They’d then wrap it with fillings like peanuts or sesame, shape it into small green dumplings, and steam them in a pot—thus creating the famous Hakka delicacy known as “mugwort rice cakes.”

　　The flavor of mugwort rice cakes is quite strong, and not everyone can easily enjoy it. If you’re not accustomed to the taste, you can use less mugwort when making them. This way, the result is fragrant and has a uniquely sweet aftertaste that instantly whets the appetite.

　　In fact, dishes made with mugwort aren’t limited to just mugwort rice cakes—it’s just that the latter is so famous that it overshadows other culinary creations using this ingredient. Take, for example, Hakka dog meat from Meizhou, which is renowned for its deliciousness, yet few know it comes in both salty and sweet varieties. The sweet version is cooked with glutinous rice wine lees and mugwort leaves, resulting in an indescribably wonderful flavor that one must experience firsthand to truly appreciate. This method of preparation may be unique to the Hakka people—even the Huaiyang cuisine, famous for its masterful use of sweetness, doesn’t offer a comparable dog meat dish. It’s truly one of a kind.

　　Mugwort itself also has the effect of dispelling wind and cold. That’s why Hakka women use dried mugwort to stew chicken during their postpartum confinement period—to nourish the body and ward off pathogens. When used in the right amount, the flavor is exceptionally good. This approach also proves effective against the dampness of southern China’s spring festivals.