Wild Sharpbelly Fish

Wild Sharpbelly Fish

　　Living by the river, the greatest advantage is having access to fresh fish at any time. However, nowadays, in pursuit of economic benefits, while raising chickens and ducks in captivity, people also started netting fish and shrimp. As a result, carp and grass carp, lured by the comfort, become lazy and inactive, eating foolishly all day long. Their flesh gradually becomes loose and flabby, covered in fat, and they no longer taste as delicious as before. Only the sharpbelly fish, refusing to change its way of life or settle for living in net cages, has retained its most original and delicious flavor.

　　The sharpbelly fish is shaped like a willow leaf, with a slender body and fine, silvery scales that shimmer. Yet, no fish buyer can ever get a live sharpbelly fish. I once asked a fisherman, “Why are all your sharpbelly fish dead? Have they been out of the water for long? Aren’t they fresh anymore?” The fish seller replied, “I just came ashore. How could they not be fresh? Look, these crucian carp, loaches, and shrimp are still jumping around. It’s just that sharpbelly fish are too stubborn—they die as soon as they’re taken out of the water.” I then asked another fish farmer, “Why don’t you raise sharpbelly fish along with carp and grass carp?” The farmer answered, “No one raises sharpbelly fish in captivity. They refuse to stay in net cages. Raising them would be pointless.” Only then did I realize that the name “sharpbelly fish” is actually related to its temperament.

　　I admire the sharpbelly fish. It’s like the unyielding people of western Hunan who live by the Yuan River—strong-willed and passionate. Sharpbelly fish love water and will never leave it willingly. Once caught and taken ashore, they fight to the death. They love freedom and refuse to be farmed. Between freedom and a net cage, they stick firmly to the belief of either living free or dying in a cage—once their mind is made up, there’s no turning back.

　　Actually, before I got to know the sharpbelly fish, whenever people mentioned it, they’d always add, “It’s that fish that eats other fish.” That’s why I used to mistakenly think the name “sharpbelly fish” came from its picky eating habits. But really, being so selective as to only eat live small fish and shrimp is quite picky indeed. I think maybe it’s because small fish and shrimp aren’t so easy to catch, which is why the sharpbelly fish spends its whole life constantly chasing them—keeping its body sleek and strong. The delicious taste of the sharpbelly fish must also have a lot to do with its perfect physique.

　　The way to cook wild sharpbelly fish is simple, yet incredibly delicious. After buying the fish, clean it and marinate it with salt. If you have a refrigerator, put the fish in the fridge’s chilling compartment. This way, the marinated fish will have firmer flesh. Whether the sharpbelly fish turns out tasty or not, the second step—pan-frying—is the key. For fish meant for dinner, fry it at noon, then don’t take it out of the pan. Keep it warming over low heat until dinnertime. By then, the fish bones will be crisp, and you won’t have to worry about getting pricked by bones while eating. When stir-frying the fish, don’t add extra oil. First, place the fish on one side of the pan, then sauté freshly prepared chili peppers until cooked. Then add ginger, garlic, and homemade broad bean paste, and simmer with a little water to let the seasonings infuse. Once flavored, it’s ready to serve.

　　There are many ways to cook sharpbelly fish—steamed, boiled in soup, or braised. No matter how you cook it, it’s delicious. With such good ingredients, how could you possibly fail to make a tasty dish?