Xinglong Blood Sausage

Xinglong Blood Sausage

　　Located in the heart of the Yanshan Mountains, Xinglong County’s most distinctive culinary tradition is eating “blood sausage.” In fact, “eating blood sausage” is a humble way of saying “inviting someone to eat meat.” Blood sausage refers to a dish where pig’s blood is stuffed into pig intestines. “Minor Cold, Major Cold—slaughter a pig for the New Year.” When butchering the pig, it’s essential to keep the blood pure and mix it with five-spice powder, Sichuan peppercorn, sesame oil, chopped scallions, salt, and other seasonings. Stir everything together to prevent coagulation, then tie off the ends of the intestines and cook them. The entire process requires precision: the amount of salt added must be just right, and the cooking time and heat must be carefully controlled. Undercook it, and the sausage won’t hold its shape when sliced; overcook it, and it loses its tenderness. In this region, a butcher’s skill is judged not only by his speed and how cleanly he scrapes the pig but also by his ability to make blood sausage. The more people who invite you to their home, the better your reputation for both skill and good relationships.

　　The local people are simple and generous, without any pretense or exaggeration. When a family slaughters a pig, they cook the entire tenderloin, ribs, and intestines to serve guests—a tradition called “eating the whole pig.” The host will have their children go early to invite neighbors and relatives. Elders must be included. If an invited guest says

　　“I’m not coming,” the child sent to invite them might start crying, pleading desperately, pulling and pushing, doing everything possible to persuade them to come. Once all the guests have arrived, the host begins the feast, and the first dish served is always sliced blood sausage. Usually, the hostess will start by saying, “We’ve invited the aunties and grandmas here—there’s nothing fancy, but please try our blood sausage.” Then, large platters and bowls of braised meat, ribs, boiled liver, and more are brought out, all steaming hot. Everyone eats happily and parts on good terms. If there were any arguments or disputes during the year, someone might bring them up during the meal, and another person might say:

　　“No one’s perfect—we all make mistakes. Let’s let the past stay in the past.” And just like that, things are resolved. Eating blood sausage often brings mountain village neighbors closer together, fostering stronger bonds.