Magu

Magu

　　“The moon is round on the 15th of August, and Mid-Autumn mooncakes are fragrant and sweet.” This well-known saying reflects the custom of eating mooncakes on the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival in both urban and rural areas. Mooncakes were originally used as offerings to the moon goddess. Over time, admiring the moon and tasting mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn Festival came to symbolize family reunion—so much so that eating mooncakes has become an essential part of celebrating the holiday.

　　In the Konglong area of Huangmei, mooncakes are also called Magu, similar to the Ma Bing in Chengdu, but these have filling. Round in shape and about the size of two fists, their outer crust is made from flour mixed with either white or black sesame seeds and then baked, usually in a brownish hue with a relatively thin skin. The filling mainly consists of rock sugar and lard. It contains a variety of fruit ingredients, and when cut open, you can see melon seeds, osmanthus, and other fillings. The taste is pure, rich yet not greasy.

　　Magu are typically wrapped in white paper, which is often moistened with cooking oil, with a small square piece of red paper tucked inside, and then tied with kraft paper string in a “cross” shape. Before the festival, adults would take us kids to give seasonal gifts, and Magu were an indispensable present.

　　When eating Magu, they are usually cut horizontally and vertically into three slices each, making several small squares. Paired with a light tea, it helps cut through the richness and aids digestion, while also allowing you to savor the flavor slowly and enhance the festive mood. I remember Magu costing only about 3 yuan each back then. Because they were delicious and affordable, they became the best food for Huangmei locals to give to friends or enjoy themselves.

　　The origin of the name “Magu” is quite interesting. It is said that when Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty traveled to the south of the Yangtze River, he passed through Konglong Town in Huangmei County on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month. Tired and weary, he stopped at a teahouse on Chopstick Street in the town to rest and have some tea. That day, a performer named Magu was singing Huangmei opera tunes at a teahouse near her home. As Emperor Qianlong listened to the tune, he also ate some local specialties, including this sesame mooncake. After taking a bite, he found the texture soft and delicious, and couldn’t stop praising it. He asked the waiter what kind of cake it was. Unfortunately, the waiter was a bit hard of hearing and thought he was asking for the stage name of the performer, so he casually replied “Magu.” Emperor Qianlong looked at the plump sesame mooncake, covered in sesame seeds on the outside and also filled inside. Pondering for a moment, he said, “Magu? How fitting a name indeed. The taste is truly unique!” Before leaving, he even bought about ten more to take with him on the road.

　　On the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival, under the bright full moon, families gather together to enjoy mooncakes, admire the moon, chat and laugh, fully embracing the joy of family togetherness.

　　Source: Huangmei County People’s Government Website, Cao Jinjun’s “Warm Hearth,” Author: Cao Jinjun