Fan Guan Liquor

Fan Guan Liquor

　　　“Salted duck eggs from Shahu, lotus roots from Miancheng, crisp cakes from Hongmiao, and Fan Guan liquor.” This is how people praise these local specialties.

　　 Fan Guan Liquor had already gained nationwide fame by the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties. When Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, ascended the throne in Nanjing, he hosted a banquet for his ministers using Fan Guan Liquor, and all who drank it praised it as an excellent brew.

　　 Fan Guan is situated by the Luo River, close to Pai Lake, and became one of the nineteen well-known market towns in Mianyang by the late Yuan Dynasty. The town stretched three li in length, bustling with merchants and thriving in commerce. Especially notable was its brewing industry, which flourished greatly—with nine distilleries operating along the street, yet still unable to meet demand. A popular folk rhyme at the time went: “One li, three distilleries, brewing day and night, and everyone who comes and goes praises the fragrance of the liquor.”

　　 People said, “The liquor brewed here is especially good. Just two cups will leave you drunk and unconscious for three days.”

　　 Why was Fan Guan Liquor so exceptional? There is a legend that explains it:

　　 In the late Yuan Dynasty, an elderly traveler came to a distillery owned by the Ding family to buy liquor. The owner poured him a jug of Xiaoqu liquor, but the man said it wasn’t good. The owner then offered him a jug of Fenjiu, yet he still wasn’t satisfied. Finally, the owner drew out a premium aged liquor from the cellar, but the man still claimed it wasn’t good. Puzzled, the owner asked, “What kind of liquor would you consider truly good?” The old man took out a gourd flask from his waist and handed it to the owner, saying, “Take a sip of this and then tell me.” The owner took a sip and found the flavor rich, the aroma fragrant, and the aftertaste deep and lingering—far superior to any liquor he had brewed himself. He quickly asked, “Where did you get this liquor?” The old man smiled faintly, “I made it myself.” Realizing the old man was a master brewer, the owner earnestly begged him to teach his techniques. The old man agreed.

　　 One day, the old man said to the owner, “Your ingredients and brewing skills are fine, but the water quality is lacking. Behind your distillery there is a large pond. At the hour of You (5–7 PM), the water quality is excellent. Have someone draw water from there at that time to brew liquor, and you will surely produce a fine brew.” The owner followed his advice, and the resulting liquor was indeed as exceptional as the old man had promised. Other distilleries rushed to imitate the method, and their liquors matched the quality of the Ding family’s. As a result, people flocked to the pond every day at the appointed hour to draw water for brewing. Later, locals named the pond “Liquor Pond.”

　　 After passing on his technique, the old man left. Many asked the owner of the Ding family distillery, “Who was that old man?” The owner replied, “He never revealed his name, but there were the characters ‘Liquor Immortal’ carved on the gourd flask at his waist. He must have been Du Kang, the god of liquor, descended from heaven.”

　　 People knew that Du Kang was the patron saint of brewers, who crafted heavenly elixirs for the Jade Emperor in the heavens. His descent to earth to share his craft was seen as a great blessing. News spread, and many came to Fan Guan to taste the fine liquor and indulge in its flavor.

　　 In the 28th year of the Zhi Zheng era of the Yuan Dynasty (1368 AD), in the first month of the year, Zhu Yuanzhang ascended the throne in Nanjing and used Fan Guan Liquor to entertain his ministers. He later designated it as imperial liquor for court use. From then on, Fan Guan Liquor became widely renowned.

　　 In the spring of the first year of the Hongwu era of the Ming Dynasty (1369 AD), Grand Secretary Song Lian visited Fan Guan to sample the liquor. It was precisely the hour of You (5–7 PM), and he saw the waters of Liquor Pond shimmering clear under the glow of the setting sun, with a gentle breeze carrying the rich aroma of liquor. Inspired, he composed a poem:

　　The sunset glows o’er the hills,

　　Fragrance drifts from the jade-hued pool.

　　 Three cups in, I lose myself—and bow, half-dreaming, to Du Kang.