Ma Family’s Lamb Offal Stew

Ma Family’s Lamb Offal Stew

　　The lamb offal stew made by Ma Erba (Ma Guifu), a Hui Muslim from Xiguan in Zunhua, is delicious—richly aromatic and tender to the bone. In the past, every morning around eight or nine o’clock, residents of the town would hear the distinctive cry of “Lamb Offal!” echoing from West Street all the way up to the Pavilion. The sound was so crisp and clear, it could be heard from over a mile away. Originally, lamb offal was made from dirty and smelly parts such as sheep heads, trotters, and entrails. But under Master Ma’s skillful hands, these became richly flavorful and mouthwatering delicacies.

　　Brothers Ma Guiqing and Ma Guifu originally came from Baodi County. In 1915, they fled with their father to Zunhua and started this business. To earn trust and make a living, they were meticulous about cleaning ingredients, blending seasonings, and controlling cooking times. The basic method involves first blanching and cleaning the heads, trotters, and offal, then boiling them in water before transferring them to an old broth pot. The old broth is the stock made from simmering meat with seasonings such as fennel, Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, scallions, garlic, and ginger—used repeatedly for cooking meat, hence the name “old broth.” When cooking, the pot is only uncovered occasionally, and timing and heat are carefully managed. Older sheep parts are simmered longer, while fatty intestines and liver are added later to prevent oil loss or overcooking. This method yields tender, fragrant lamb heads, trotters, and offal with a uniquely delicious taste.

　　Thanks to his unwavering commitment to quality and reputation, more than 20 sheep’s worth of offal stew were sold out daily by the time the cart rolled out from Xiguan, not even making it all the way to the Pavilion. For over 40 years, Ma Family’s lamb offal stew earned widespread praise from the community.