Suspended Bridge Kiln-Baked Sesame Flatbread

Suspended Bridge Kiln-Baked Sesame Flatbread

　　One of Leting’s famous local snacks, the Suspended Bridge Kiln-Baked Sesame Flatbread, has a history of over a hundred years and was widely renowned throughout eastern Hebei even before the liberation. Its production method is unique. Historically, to make kiln-baked flatbread, a large water vat cut lengthwise was turned upside down over a square, flat stove platform — this setup is what’s referred to as the "kiln." The interior of the kiln resembles an enclosed, arched bridge tunnel. During preparation, smokeless charcoal is burned on the flat stove platform; first, the arched body of the kiln is heated, then the flatbreads are stuck upside-down onto the inner surface of the kiln. At this point, the flatbreads are heated from the inside by the kiln while roasted from below by the charcoal fire. The lard rendered from the filling gradually seeps into the outer crust. The resulting flatbreads are round, golden brown, crispy outside and tender inside, with a deliciously fragrant, rich taste and a uniquely delightful flavor.

　　 The dough and filling for the kiln-baked flatbread are both very carefully prepared. The filling is made from premium streaky pork, with a small amount of green onions and Chinese cabbage, along with seasonings. The dough is an oily flaky pastry, which is wrapped, coated in sesame seeds, and then stuck onto the inner wall of the kiln. Controlling the firing temperature is the most technical part — too high and the flatbread will burn; too low and it won’t stick, causing it to slide off. Therefore, getting the heat just right is extremely difficult. The kiln-baked flatbreads are not large, but they are wonderfully fragrant and crisp, and yet their preparation process is surprisingly complex — truly a unique skill within Leting’s culinary tradition. The craft of making Leting’s kiln-baked flatbreads requires mastery of three key techniques: firing the kiln. The so-called kiln is usually a large ceramic vat that has been vertically cut down to remove part of its height, then laid horizontally to form the furnace, sealed with clay, and heated with charcoal or branches from the Chinese scholar tree until the interior turns dark, reaching about 100°C. Then the fire is extinguished, and the kiln is rinsed with water. The prepared flatbreads are then individually placed against the kiln wall using the back of the hand. Because the kiln wall is moderately hot, the flatbreads stick to it and are roasted from above and baked from below, cooking through completely and releasing a fragrant aroma when done. Firing the kiln requires balanced heat — too intense and the flatbreads will scorch, too weak and the fire won’t be sufficient, leaving them undercooked. When brushing the kiln, observe the color of the walls: areas that are too hot should be cooled by adding more water, and cooler areas should be warmed up with more fire. Since there's no thermometer to measure temperature, everything depends on experience in reading the color of the kiln walls. The second technique is shaping the dough. "Six jin (about 3 kg) of water dough goes on the bottom, four jin (about 2 kg) of oil dough on top. On the dough board, roll it out into a paper-thin sheet, then roll it up and pinch it into 162 equal-sized portions. Shape these into rounds, wrap the filling — scooped from fragrant oil-marinated pork — and flatten them. The filling should be measured properly, and the sealed edge must not leak oil, otherwise the flatbread won’t stick to the kiln wall. After wrapping and flattening, the flatbreads are dipped on the non-sticking side in roasted sesame seeds in preparation for baking. The final technique is putting the flatbreads into the kiln — the baking stage. Once the flatbreads are ready, they’re placed one by one against the kiln wall using the back of the hand, around 80 pieces per batch. They must be placed close together and evenly spaced. At this point, the temperature of the kiln wall is absolutely critical. If it’s too low, the flatbreads won’t stick and will fall into the charcoal, becoming unusable. Adjusting the temperature is done via an iron curtain at the kiln door: open it if the temperature is too high, close it if it’s too low. Each batch takes over two hours to bake.

　　 Leting’s kiln-baked flatbreads are highly praised by locals, visitors from other regions, and food connoisseurs alike. With their long history, they have become one of the region’s representative local snacks that showcase Leting County’s distinctive culinary culture.