Yinguang Temple Brick Pagoda

Yinguang Temple Brick Pagoda

Yinguang Temple Brick Pagoda is a cultural relic protection unit of Shanxi Province.

A children’s rhyme once circulated in Quwo: “People of Quwo, ever homesick, can’t bear to be away from mom even a day, miss the cracked pagoda if gone three—eyes turn red, tears stream away.” The “cracked pagoda” in the rhyme refers to the Yinguang Temple Brick Pagoda in Quwo.

The Yinguang Temple Brick Pagoda is located within the former grounds of Yinguang Temple, outside the west gate of the old town center in Quwo, hence it is also known as the West Temple Pagoda. It was first built in the fifth year of the Dading era (1165) during the Jin Dynasty. The pagoda has 12 tiers and features the dense-eave style popular in northern China during the Liao and Jin periods. The base is octagonal and hollow, with an upright pagoda body. Starting from the first tier, the overhanging eaves gradually decrease in depth at unequal intervals as the height increases, giving the pagoda a taller and sturdier appearance that reflects the bold and vigorous character of northern ethnic groups. In the seventh year of the Yuandade era (1303), a major earthquake caused four tiers of the pagoda to collapse, and the remaining upper section split into two parts, which is why it is also called the “Cracked Pagoda.” Until the mid-20th century, Yinguang Temple Pagoda remained the tallest structure in Quwo and the oldest surviving building in the county, making it a symbolic landmark of the area.

Today, only seven tiers of the pagoda remain, built with yellow mud-laid bricks and an unadorned surface. The first tier is relatively tall, with pagoda eaves featuring carved brick imitation wooden structures and relatively large brackets. Above the second tier, all eaves use interlocking brickwork. At the upper corners of each tier, remnants of wood can be seen, likely used for hanging wind chimes. The outermost edge of each eave tier is carved with curved patterns resembling drip tiles. The interior space is fairly spacious; on the southern side of the octagonal inner wall there is a brick arched doorway, while the northern side has a small brick Buddhist niche with a caisson ceiling made of brick. On the upper part of the inner walls, apart from the east and west sides, the other six sides feature component mortise holes, indicating that the floor beam structure was likely a grid pattern designed to support a wooden staircase. One can imagine the lively scene when the pagoda was first built, with people ascending to worship and gaze upon the beautiful landscapes of Quwo.

The Yinguang Temple Pagoda has stood for 842 years, and the great earthquake that split it in two occurred over 700 years ago. Having endured much, it has witnessed the rise and fall of Quwo through the ages and can be considered a silent historical witness. Since the pagoda is located near the west gate of the old town center, it has long been a popular site for local worshippers. Its incense offerings were especially abundant, and it also served as a gathering place for literati, officials, and scholars throughout Quwo’s history. Li Shangsi, a native of Quwo who served as Vice Minister of Personnel during the Ming Dynasty, wrote in his poem “Summer Gathering at the Four Temples of the City”: “Seeking coolness in the flower-hall temple, a refreshing breeze opens the traveler’s heart. One peak stands quietly before the window, twin trees cradle the terrace deep. A mat spreads under lotus-hued shadows, a cup moves to the pagoda’s ancient shade. Through you I gain sudden insight, a carefree heart like white clouds.” This describes a gathering beneath the pagoda, showing it was once a favored spot to escape the summer heat. The patriotic scholar Gu Yanwu, who lived in Yiyuan Village in eastern Quwo and lectured at Jiangshan Academy, often wandered beneath the ancient pagoda. It is said that after seeing the Yinguang Temple Pagoda, he remarked, “Gazing up at the precious pagoda inspires ambition; visiting Donghan revives old memories; the spring scenery of Quwo is truly worth seeking.”

Since its construction, the ancient pagoda has suffered multiple instances of natural and man-made damage. Several major earthquakes have been recorded. Aside from the significant damage caused by the earthquake in the seventh year of the Yuandade era, it also withstood two massive earthquakes—in the 34th year of the Ming Jiajing era and the 34th year of the Qing Kangxi era—that caused great loss of life but no major reported damage to the pagoda. In 1941, during Japan’s “Three Alls Policy” (kill all, burn all, loot all) in North China, Japanese troops stationed in Quwo burned down Yinguang Temple outside the city for defensive reasons and attempted to demolish the brick pagoda using explosives. However, their blast only caused a minor collapse at the base of the pagoda, leaving the structure largely intact. They ultimately abandoned the effort, and the pagoda remained standing firmly in its original location. This attests to the exceptional architectural skill of ancient Chinese laborers. But given its age, the pagoda has endured 800 years of weathering, warfare, and damage. Although it still stands in a corner of the ancient city and underwent two restorations—in the 10th year of the Qing Shunzhi era and shortly after the liberation period—its foundation has slightly subsided, causing the structure to lean. The parts split by the Yuandade earthquake also show slight cracks, and the remaining top bricks occasionally fall during storms. Therefore, urgent restoration is needed.

Further Reading:

· Fifth Batch of Cultural Relic Protection Units in Shanxi Province