Taiping Ancient Town

Taiping Ancient Town

Taiping Ancient Town is a national AAAA-level tourist attraction.

Taiping Ancient Town is located on the southern bank of the Chishui River, under the jurisdiction of Gulin County, Luzhou City, Sichuan Province. It covers an area of 104 square kilometers, governs 9 administrative villages, 1 community, and has a population of over 36,000. Historically known as "Luohongkou" and "Lupingchang," it was later named "Taipingdu." Situated at the crucial border between Sichuan and Guizhou, the town boasts convenient water and land transportation, abundant resources, and a serene ancient charm, earning it the reputation of the "Pearl of the Chishui River." The ancient town is built along the mountain contours, with shops lined up in tiers, grey-tiled wooden buildings staggered in height—reminiscent of Chongqing's Chaotianmen—and is celebrated as the "Little Mountain City." In April 2011, Taiping Ancient Town was honored as one of Sichuan Province's "Top Ten Most Business-Friendly Streets."

Taiping Ancient Town is located to the east of Gulin County, about 35 kilometers from the county seat. The area sits at the confluence of the Gulin River and the Chishui River, with higher terrain in the southeast and lower in the northwest, sloping toward Taipingdu. It features a deep hilly valley landscape.

Taiping Town is located to the east of Gulin County, about 35 kilometers from the county seat. Nestled between mountains and water, its streets are terraced, making it a longstanding hub for Sichuan-Guizhou trade and travel. Known as the "Little Mountain City," it is one of Sichuan Province's eight famous towns. In 1983, it was featured in the book series "China's Tourism World Today," introduced to the world in seven languages. In 1996, the Monument and Exhibition Hall for the Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River by the Red Army were built, and it was named a "Sichuan Provincial Patriotic Education Base" by the Sichuan Provincial Party Committee and Government. In 2001, it was designated a "National Patriotic Education Base" by the Central Propaganda Department. In 2004, it became a Sichuan Provincial National Defense Education Base. In 2007, Taiping Town was awarded the title of "National Historical and Cultural Town." In April 2011, Taiping Ancient Town was honored as one of Sichuan Province's "Top Ten Most Business-Friendly Streets."

Museum: The "Exhibition Hall for the Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River during the Long March of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army," inscribed by founding Marshal Zhang Aiping, was established in 1958 with approval from the Sichuan Provincial People's Government under the name "Taipingdu Red Army Long March Memorial Hall." In 1975, to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the Red Army’s Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River and fulfill Comrade [Deng Xiaoping]’s wish to "highlight the glorious victory of the Fourth Crossing, as it was the masterpiece of Chairman Mao’s military artistry," it was renamed and a new exhibition hall was built next to the Rongshengtong Salt Shop. This became the only such exhibition hall on the Chishui River.

The exhibition hall was expanded and completed in 1977, covering a site area of 728㎡ with a building area of 478㎡. It has 7 exhibition rooms displaying over 300 precious cultural relics, including Red Army weapons, seals, medical books, lanterns, slogans, top-secret code sheets, propaganda silk paintings, and pontoon bridge planks.

In 2001, the exhibition hall was named a "National Patriotic Education Demonstration Base" by the Central Propaganda Department. In 2005, it was designated as a national classic red tourism site by the Central Propaganda Department, one of 100 such sites. Originally housed in the Rongshengtong Salt Shop, it moved to its current location in 2008 and now includes 13 sections: the Introductory Hall, Strategic Relocation, the Zunyi Conference, First Chishui Crossing, Second Chishui Crossing, Third Chishui Crossing, Fourth Chishui Crossing, Army-Civilian Unity, the End of the Long March, Seeds of Revolution, Historical Flashbacks, Modern Gulin, and the Final Hall. In June 2011, with approval from the Sichuan Cultural Relics Bureau, it was renamed the Gulin County Museum of the Fourth Chishui Crossing during the Red Army’s Long March.

Architecture: Taiping Ancient Town has a long history, with most buildings dating from the Qing Dynasty. Due to the steep terrain, many structures follow the natural contours of the mountain. Among the dense architecture, one particularly unique and eye-catching style is the stilted building. This distinctive architectural method features a main house built on the ground, with one side of the wing room attached to solid ground and connected to the main house, while the other three sides are suspended and supported by pillars. The ground floor is usually uninhabited and used for storage, while people live upstairs. This style employs traditional stilt construction techniques to maximize space utilization. The stilted building in the former site of the Red Army’s General Headquarters is among its finest examples. Stone-paved streets are lined with shop-houses and traditional courtyard residences. Shop-houses are the main buildings in the traditional district, featuring designs such as front-shop-back-residence, upper-shop-lower-residence, and lower-shop-upper-residence. The structures mainly use post-and-lintel and mixed construction. The courtyards are rustic, traditional, spacious, and serene, epitomizing the classic style of southern Sichuan dwellings. The Liu and Li residences, once used as Red Army hospitals, are representative of courtyard homes. Taiping Ancient Town is the fruit of years of meticulous craftsmanship using traditional building techniques, exceptional skills in platform construction, hanging, cantilevering, ridging, and arching. The town remains remarkably well-preserved today, with its historic character intact—a rarity even nationwide.

Long March Street: To commemorate the Red Army’s Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River, locals renamed the old street formerly called Pingshang as Long March Street, also known as Red Army Street. The street stretches approximately 500 meters along the mountain down to the Chishui River. During market days, it teems with crowds shoulder-to-shoulder. In 2011, it was awarded the title of "One of Sichuan’s Thirty Most Beautiful Streets—Most Business-Friendly Street" by the "Sichuan’s Most Beautiful Streets" organizing committee, showcasing an image of an ancient yet vibrant thoroughfare. Red Army slogans from that era can still be seen on the street, where no fewer than 87 Red Army historical sites remain.

As the main battlefield of the second and fourth crossings during the Red Army’s Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River, Taiping Ancient Town witnessed this glorious chapter of history. The Long March left behind deeply moving stories here.

Distribution Site: In the lunar winter of 1934, when the Red Army first entered Taiping Ancient Town, local residents who had not fled were wary of the newcomers and hesitant to interact. To mobilize and connect with the masses, the Red Army opened the grain storehouse of local landlord Zhu Feisheng, distributed grain, slaughtered a fat pig to share with locals for the New Year, and shared confiscated goods. Red Army cadres enlisted the help of local night watchman Zhou Guoqing to announce the distribution via gong at the Rongshengtong Salt Shop. Initially hesitant, the crowd only gathered after Zhou’s third announcement, overcoming their fears. The Red Army distributed grain, pork, and goods to the impoverished. Zhou Guoqing, the night watchman, was especially pleased—so much so that the Red Army gave him an extra portion of pork. While others received one piece, he got two. The people of Taiping truly experienced that the Red Army was the army of the poor. The courtyard in front of the Rongshengtong Salt Shop came to be known as the "Distribution Site."

Rongshengtong Salt Shop: Built in the late Qing Dynasty, it served as a transit hub for Sichuan salt entering Guizhou and is an important relic along the historic salt route. At the peak of salt trade, Taiping Town had eight salt shops, with some original shop signs still visible, including Heng Salt Shop, Sanyiheng Salt Shop, Deqianyu Salt Shop, and Rongshengtong Salt Shop. When the Red Army arrived during the Fourth Crossing of the Chishui River, they not only distributed confiscated goods from landlord Zhu Feisheng but also shared all 400,000 dan of salt stored in the Rongshengtong warehouse with locals, earning widespread support. The shop was also where Chairman Mao stayed, and after liberation, the Taipingdu Red Army Long March Memorial Hall was first established here.

Former Site of the Red Army General Headquarters: Originally a large temple in Taiping Ancient Town, it was chosen as the General Headquarters during the Fourth Crossing due to its vantage overlooking the Chishui River battlefield and the opposite highlands. The building consists of two parts: the single-story section housed [Mao Zedong], [Zhou Enlai], [Wang Jiaxiang], and [Liu Bocheng], while the three-story wooden stilted section upstairs served as the highest logistical command and leadership body—the Red Army Headquarters. All military orders originated here. At the time, the Red Army Commander-in-Chief was [Zhu De], the Political Commissar was [Zhou Enlai], and the Chief of Staff was [Liu Bocheng]. After the Zunyi Conference in January 1935, on March 4, 1935, the Party Central Committee decided to establish the Red Army Frontline Command, with [Zhu De] as Commander-in-Chief and Mao Zedong as Political Commissar.

Former Site of the Red Army General Political Department: This wooden structure from the late Qing and early Republican period bears faint red markings from the Cultural Revolution on its door. The General Political Department was primarily responsible for managing Party work within the army and organizing political activities to continuously enhance combat effectiveness and ensure the success of operations, training, and other tasks. The head of the department at the time was Wang Jiaxiang.

Huangjue Tree: Ascending the sightseeing platform offers a panoramic view of the ancient town. Beside the platform stands a 200-year-old Huangjue tree, one of several in Taiping. Also known as the Yellow Banyan, Big Leaf Fig, or Huangjue Fig, it is a tall deciduous tree of the Moraceae family. It thrives in sunlight, is drought-resistant, grows in poor soil, and features aerial roots, demonstrating remarkable adaptability. Symbolizing the spirit of the Red Army, this enduring tree stands tall atop the platform, bearing witness to the miracle of the Fourth Chishui Crossing.

Former Site of the Red Army Temporary Hospital: Originally the Zhu residence, it features a stone gate, a central courtyard with a skywell, and a rear entrance connecting to Linlang Road. Located near the confluence of the Chishui and Gulin Rivers, it allowed timely treatment for wounded soldiers. Several such temporary hospitals existed along the upper and lower streets. With no stable base during the Long March, many injured or straggling soldiers lacked proper care. Though these hospitals treated numerous wounded, casualties remained high. When the main Red Army forces departed, some wounded were killed by local militias, while others died of exposure or starvation hiding in caves. Most, however, survived with civilian protection, later joining underground efforts to spread revolutionary ideals.

Former Site of the Red Fifth Army Corps: The Red Fifth Army Corps was a main force of the Chinese Workers' and Peasants' Red Army, equipped and skilled in positional warfare better than any other unit. Throughout the Long March, it bore the grueling task of rear guard duties, making outstanding contributions in the early stages to protect the main force, especially the Central Committee and government. During the Long March, [Li De] served as the Central Representative to the Fifth Army, [Liu Bocheng] as Chief of Staff, and Dong Zhentang as Commander. In the Fourth Chishui Crossing, the Fifth Army continued to safeguard the rear, ensuring the operation’s success. The Fifth Army was renowned for its arduous rear-guard role, composing poignant chapters of history. In January 1937, they were besieged at Gaotai, fighting for nine days and nights until nearly all 2,000 troops, including Commander Dong Zhentang and Political Commissar Yang Kaiming, were martyred. This was their station during the Fourth Chishui mission, under the leadership of Commander Dong Zhentang and Political Commissar Li Zhuoran.

Former Site of the Cadre Regiment: The Cadre Regiment was a special, elite unit within the Red Army, often turning the tide in critical battles. It played a pivotal role in the Battle of Tucheng and throughout the Long March. At the time, its Commander was Chen Geng and Political Commissar was [Xu Xiangqian].

Former Site of the Red Third Army Corps: One of the main forces of the Central Red Army, the Third Corps often led the vanguard alongside the First Corps. During the First Chishui Crossing, it passed through Taipingdu. In the Second Crossing, its advance units (the 12th and 13th Regiments) crossed at Erlangtan, clashing with two regiments of the Guizhou Army’s You Guocai forces led by Wei Jinyong (nicknamed "Wei Jackal") and Hou Hanyou, who were blocking the crossing. With decisive command and brave, clever fighters guided by locals familiar with the terrain, they won the backwater battle at Erlang. According to Tan Zhiyong’s "Fourth Chishui Crossing," the Guizhou Army’s Hou Zhi Dan operated a "Sigong" salt depot at Erlangtan, stockpiling 500–600,000 jin of salt. Yet locals struggled to access salt, giving rise to the saying: "Oh Erlangtan, surrounded by hills, carrying salt daily, yet every meal is bland." When the Red Army clashed with the Guizhou Army on the river’s east bank, they broke into the salt depot and distributed the salt to the poor, winning their support. The Third Corps achieved great feats during the Fourth Chishui and the entire Long March. Its Commander was Peng Dehuai, praised by Mao Zedong as "General Peng," and its Political Commissar was [Luo Ronghuan].

Former Underground Party Activity Room: This site, relatively hidden, was used by the Gulin underground Communist Party. During the 72-day Fourth Chishui Crossing, the Red Army spent 54 days in Gulin County. Large numbers of workers and peasants joined the Red Army—over 800 from Gulin alone—who later became key figures in the Anti-Japanese War, Liberation War, and nation-building. After the Red Army left, the Gulin Special Branch was re-established in 1938, and the Gulin County Underground Party Committee was formed in 1939. Injured or stranded Red Army soldiers in Gulin actively engaged in underground activities, recruiting new members, establishing Party branches. The underground force grew from 183 members in 1939 to over 2,379 by the end of the Liberation War, including a guerrilla force of over 1,000, forming a vital revolutionary base in southern Sichuan. Meetings and discussions on Gulin’s revolutionary situation were held in this very room.

Legendary Chief of Staff Liu Xianghui: Taipingdu established an underground Party branch during the Anti-Japanese War, one of Gulin’s earliest. This branch is tied to the legendary figure Liu Xianghui. In 1935, after falling from his horse and being kicked into a pit by the animal, Liu was rescued by locals who entrusted him to a carpenter. He stayed only briefly before leaving with a single silver dollar to rejoin the Red Army. Exhausted on the way, he was taken in by stonemason He, who hid him as an apprentice. While repairing a roof for Doctor Zhang Zexuan, Liu was recognized and welcomed to stay in Taipingdu. To avoid burdening He, he moved into Zhang’s home, making a living by fetching water while Zhang disguised his identity as a distant relative. But peace couldn’t hold a man devoted to the Party. Liu sought out over 30 stranded Red Army soldiers in Taipingdu. By 1937, he reconnected with the Party, spending months traveling across Sichuan, Guizhou, and adjacent regions to regroup scattered comrades, restore Party membership, and strengthen revolutionary forces. He arranged care for disabled comrades. In 1938, he wrote to Peng Dehuai, receiving a reply. That year, he founded an underground branch in Taiping, later returning to active duty in 1939. After liberation, he served as Commander of the Chaozhou Military Subdistrict in Guangdong. Though busy, he often wrote to Taiping residents, calling it his second home. In 1955, he sent photos of himself and his family to Zhang Zexuan. In 1978, he planned to reunite with Taiping’s people but passed away in winter, bedridden and full of longing. A photo of Commander Liu is displayed in the museum’s "Seeds of Revolution" exhibition.

Former Site of the Red First Army Corps: A main force of the Central Red Army, the First Corps, alongside the Third Corps, played pivotal roles in major events of the Long March. During the Fourth Chishui Crossing, while the Third Corps controlled Erlangtan, the First Corps’ Second Division secured a Chishui crossing, building a pontoon bridge while repelling an attack by nearly 3,000 enemy troops. Its then-Commander was [Lin Biao] and Political Commissar was [Nie Rongzhen].

Former Red Army Site: The Red Army maintained strict discipline, often sleeping in the open or with civilians while strictly adhering to rules, fostering deep army-civilian bonds.

Former Red Army Cook Unit Site: Cook units prepared meals for soldiers. Six such sites remain in Taiping Town.

Former Red Army Bank Exchange Office: Originally the Zhang residence, it facilitated the exchange of Soviet-area currency, unusable locally, into circulating Republican currency to protect civilians.

Former Red Army Intelligence Office: Intelligence was crucial to victory. The "Second Bureau" handled critical intelligence work, providing accurate insights for strategic decisions. Peng Dehuai remarked, “We relied on the bravery of our soldiers and reconnaissance.” Mao Zedong said, “Without the Second Bureau, there would be no Red Army—it’s the lantern in the dark.” Its leaders were Zeng Xisheng and Li Tao.

Door Planks: The blackened wooden doors of Taiping’s homes are humble yet vital witnesses to the Fourth Chishui Crossing. Locals voluntarily contributed their door planks and small boats to build floating bridges, creating a path to victory. Despite bombings, the bridges stood firm—a heroic lifeline made possible by the people. Their sacrifice is an enduring legend of the Long March.

The Silver Dollars and Note in the Incense Burner: In Taiping Ancient Town, there is a true story about the Red Army’s Long March and their four crossings of the Chishui River. It revolves around an ordinary civilian house owned by a doctor named Zhang Zexuan. When news spread that “the enemy is coming,” to avoid the chaos of war, the doctor and his family fled to relatives in Guizhou. After the Red Army had left, he hurried back home. Upon hearing that the Red Army had stayed at his place, he quickly checked both inside and outside the house and discovered that over 200 jin (approximately 100 kg) of yellow grain from the upper floor was missing. Convinced that the Red Army had taken the grain to eat, he felt quite displeased. Later that year, during the local tradition of “sweeping away the dust” (a custom of cleaning before the New Year), while clearing the ashes from the incense burner, he was astonished to find several silver dollars and a note. The note read: “Dear neighbor, we ate over 200 jin of your grain. As you were not at home, we have paid for it accordingly. Please forgive us. — The Red Army.” The doctor was stunned and deeply moved. He never imagined that such an honorable army existed in the world. He would tell everyone he met, praising the Red Army as a rare and exemplary force. Later, he even took in General Liu Xianghui, who had been separated from his unit and was recovering from injuries in Taipingdu.

Taipingdu Ferry Monument: After visiting Taiping Ancient Town, walk down the stone steps to reach the Eagle Stone Ferry on the banks of the Chishui River. This is one of the ferry sites used during the four crossings of the Chishui River. After the Zunyi Conference, Comrade Mao Zedong demonstrated his military strategic genius and led the Central Red Army in launching the world-renowned “Four Crossings of the Chishui River” campaign, achieving a decisive victory that became a classic in the history of warfare. To commemorate the great victories of the Four Crossings of the Chishui River and the Taiping Defensive Battle, the Taipingdu Ferry Monument was built here in 1977. The inscription “Taipingdu Ferry” on the monument was personally written by He Shizhen, the former director of the Sichuan Provincial Museum. The monument is tower-shaped, standing 12 meters tall and covering an area of 200 square meters. The base of the monument is 1.9 meters high, divided into three sections, each 50 cm high; the main body of the monument is 12 meters tall, and the flag atop it is 2.6 meters long. These measurements together form the numbers 1935, 12, and 26—1935 being the year the Red Army achieved victory in the Four Crossings of the Chishui River during the Long March, and December 26 being Chairman Mao’s birthday. The base of the monument is triangular; the reason for the triangle is that it indicates the direction of the Red Army’s second and fourth crossings of the Chishui River. During the Qingming Festival each year, local students and residents come to offer flower baskets they made themselves, paying tribute to the revolutionary martyrs’ great achievements.

Eagle Stone: Before liberation, eagles were often seen perching on this rock, hence its name. At the time of the Red Army’s second crossing of the Chishui River, the opposite bank was lush and covered with dense forests, which provided good cover for the Red Army’s operations. The area where we now stand was a bamboo forest. The Red Army soldiers used locally available materials, weaving sturdy ropes from bamboo. One end was tied to a large fir tree on the mountain across the river, and the other end was secured to Eagle Stone, thus connecting four small boats. Ladders were erected between the boats, and door panels collected from local residents were laid across them. The Red Army soldiers crossed the river using these makeshift crossings. After the main force had crossed the Chishui River, rear-guard units and local boatmen quickly cut the ropes, removed the boats and door panels, and blocked the pursuing enemy’s path, securing victory in the Taiping Defensive Battle.

Jiuxikou Monument: Approximately 2 kilometers from the Taipingdu Ferry Monument lies the Jiuxikou Ferry, another site where the Red Army crossed the Chishui River. The inscriptions on the monument are carved into the rock, measuring over 2 meters in length and more than 1 meter in width. Both monuments have been listed as “Key Cultural Relics Protection Units of Sichuan Province.”

Source of Information: Luzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture and Tourism