Misty Smoke Mountain

Misty Smoke Mountain

Misty Smoke Mountain is located northwest of Tongqiu City. Also known as Smoke Mountain or Crow Mountain, it is an extension of the Songshan Mountain Range. It is one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Fugou. Legend has it that this was the first stop where Laozi stopped to preach after leaving Luyi. During times of war, it served as a refuge for the people, and today it is a sacred site where devout men and women come to burn incense and pray for wishes. The temple fair held every March attracts huge crowds and is very lively. Having long admired its reputation, I therefore invited a friend to visit it together in June of the year of Xinsi.

That day, the sun was shining brightly and a gentle breeze was blowing. My friend and I cycled westward along the Fuxu Highway, turned north near the old town of Jiuyuan, and traveled about four li to the foot of Misty Smoke Mountain. We climbed the steps from the South Gate, and facing us was a hall called the General’s Hall, presumably guarding the mountain gate. On either side of the South Gate, directly opposite the General’s Hall, sat two stone lions with bristling manes and round, wide-open eyes, looking very majestic. On the east side of the South Gate was a wall, on which the various features of Misty Smoke Mountain were inscribed in clerical script. On either side was a stage, with a corridor-pillar structure, quite imposing, though we had not caught the temple fair—there were no emperors or ministers dressed in red and green swaying atop it, nor the melodious sound of traditional instruments, only the stage sitting quietly by itself.

The General’s Hall is a through-style building. On either side of the passageway stood two generals vividly painted, frowning fiercely, pointing and gesturing, looking very stern. It sent a chill down my spine yet also gave a sense of warmth. Above the General’s Hall is a pavilion, accessible by climbing the stairways on either side.

Passing the General’s Hall and heading north is the 0 Hall, then further north is the Medicine King Hall, and then the Dragon King Hall, Guan Yu Hall, and so on. Seven or eight temples are lined up from south to north. Most of the halls are built in an ancient style, featuring corridor pillars, overhanging eaves, brackets, painted decorations, and bright yellow glazed tiles. In front of the halls are large brick incense pits filled with ashes and wisps of incense smoke, testifying to the place’s prosperity. On either side of the hall doors is often a quatrain left by someone named Liu Ming—which can hardly be called poetry. Inside the doors sit elderly women, as usual there are incense burners and donation boxes; and as usual, deities such as Lords, Mothers, Grandfathers, Grandmothers, Bodhisattvas, and Dragon Kings are enshrined—some with stern expressions, others with kind looks—silently receiving the sincere (or not-so-sincere) worship of the people. At the left or right corner outside each hall door stands a marble stele inscribed with a merit record. At the top is engraved “Ten Thousand Good Deeds Flow Together,” and below are densely packed rows of names and the amounts of RMB donated. Presumably, they hope to leave a name for posterity, but it suddenly occurred to me that Jia Pingwa mentioned in *White Nights* or some other work how people in some mountain areas use such steles to cover latrines—it works quite well. Thinking this, I found the idea of leaving a name for posterity somewhat amusing. A thousand years from now, perhaps these steles and temples will be gone—who will remember the few big characters of Zhang San or Li Si?

Hui is quite understanding. Amidst simple happiness, there’s occasionally a touch of melancholy. Smiling quietly, he watches me perform my endless chatter, which only highlights my own ignorance in my eagerness to teach. The wind gently blows between Hui and me. From the pavilion above the General’s Hall, I look around and realize that Misty Smoke Mountain is only twenty or thirty meters above the ground, spanning only about one or two li in area. Perhaps it is the result of eons of geological change, with once-mighty mountains gradually eroding away. There aren’t many trees on the mountain—mostly locust, pine, chinaberry, and walnut trees. I wanted to knock down a green walnut for Hui, but I couldn’t borrow a pole because the old woman in the temple refused, so I had to give up.

If the small mountain were covered with trees and a large bell were hung, with the eaves and corners of the corridors peeking out through the foliage, and the morning bells and evening drums echoing melodiously through the mist and woods, it might be a bit less lively, but it would surely add more charm and a touch of poetry.

As the sun was about to set, we also began our journey back. The setting sun followed behind us as we walked home.

Jiuyuan Town: Jiuyuan Town of Fugou County is located 9 kilometers west of the county seat. It borders Xuchang City to the west, is 40 kilometers from National Highway 107, the Beijing-Guangzhou Railway, and the Beijing-Zhuhai Expressway, 80 kilometers from Zhengzhou International Airport to the north, and is traversed by National Highway 311 and the local Xupi Railway.

The town administers 40 administrative villages, 65 natural villages, and has a population of 50,000. The town covers an area of 82 square kilometers and has 10,000 mu of arable land. In 1996, it was named a “Comprehensive Reform Pilot Town” by the former Zhoukou Regional Party Committee and Government. In 1998, it was named a “East-West Cooperation...” Detailed information about Jiuyuan Town++