A Cool Summer Onsen Journey in Miyagi: Strolling Through Naruko’s Ancient Springs and Zaō’s Breathtaking Views

 

Text & Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Travel Life Network

 

Sunlight filters through the curtains into the room, the air carrying the refreshing fragrance of greenery, while clean and tidy streets see occasional vehicles gliding slowly by. Dressed in a yukata, I stroll leisurely toward the breakfast area. The morning onsen bath has awakened my mind and enlivened my body. Just as the Japanese guide said, experiencing these three immersions—before dinner, after dinner, and before breakfast the next day—allows one to truly appreciate the virtues of onsen.

Located in northeastern Japan, Miyagi Prefecture benefits from its relatively high latitude, with average summer temperatures about 5–6°C lower than other parts of Taiwan, and evening temperatures around 20°C. These comfortable summer nights continue to draw numerous onsen-loving tourists.

 

Miyagi Prefecture can generally be divided into regions such as Sendai & Matsushima, Southern Miyagi, Sanriku, and Northern Miyagi, each home to renowned onsen destinations. Among them, the historically rich and diverse Naruko Onsen in the northern part of the prefecture, and the stunningly scenic Zaō-Yamagata Okukaita Onsen in the southern region—which boasts multiple top-tier onsen hotels—are considered the two premier onsen areas in Miyagi.

 

A Millennium-Old Famous Spring — Naruko Onsen Village

The highly acclaimed Naruko Onsen Village is located in Ōsaki City, Miyagi Prefecture, and collectively refers to the Onsen towns of Onikōbe, Higashi-Naruko, Naruko, Nakayamadaira, and Kawatabi. With a history of over 1,100 years since its discovery, local guides say that out of Japan’s 11 types of onsen water, Naruko Onsen features nine. Thanks to its rich variety of spring qualities and long development history, it ranks among the Northeast’s Three Great Onsen along with Fukushima’s Iizaka Onsen and Akayu Onsen, even earning the title “East’s Yokozuna.” When visiting Naruko Onsen Village, take your time to fully immerse yourself in its natural and cultural beauty.

 

The Jigokudani Geyser in Onikōbe

Located in the northernmost Onikōbe Onsen area, legend has it that during the Nara Period 1,200 years ago, the indigenous Emishi people of the northeast resisted the Yamato forces attempting to conquer Mutsu. A brave and formidable warrior known as “Oni” (demon), named Ōtake Maru, was defeated by the famous Yamato general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro. His severed head flew to the area near present-day Onikōbe, hence the name “Onikōbe” (Demon’s Head).