A Centuries-Old Delicacy Recognized as Intangible Cultural Heritage: Shanghai’s Wang Baohe “All-Crab Banquet” Leaves a Lingering Aftertaste

“Chrysanthemum Crab Shape”: All parts of the hairy crab meat are carefully removed and then reassembled to recreate the shape of a whole crab, which is then stir-fried—allowing crab enthusiasts to enjoy the full deliciousness of an entire crab effortlessly. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

Every autumn, no seasonal delicacy is more eagerly anticipated by food lovers than the “hairy crab.” And seasoned crab connoisseurs all know the rule: “September for females with round abdomens, October for males with pointed ones.” But now it’s already November—is it too late to enjoy crabs?! Don’t worry, foodies. This year has a leap sixth month, so November is actually the perfect time to savor hairy crabs. Plump, golden crabs grace the table, their bright red shells hiding snowy white meat and rich golden roe. Dip them in ginger-vinegar sauce and let the autumn hues tinge your taste buds. Autumn crabs are truly enchanting, and when it comes to enjoying them in Shanghai, the first choice must be the all-crab banquet at Wang Baohe Restaurant.

Speaking of Wang Baohe Hotel, it boasts a history of 272 years, having been established in the ninth year of the Qianlong reign (1744). Specializing in fresh hairy crabs and Wang Baohe’s traditional liquor, it has earned the titles “King of Crabs” and “Ancestor of Liquor.” Moreover, its culinary techniques for the all-crab banquet have been recognized as “Shanghai Intangible Cultural Heritage.”

“Crab Roe Congee.” (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

The smoked fish at Wang Baohe Hotel offers a richly layered flavor—savory with a touch of sweetness, featuring a crispy, fragrant exterior and tender, well-seasoned interior. Boneless and not greasy, the fish slices are just the right thickness, offering a delightful crunch and chewiness that lingers on the palate, making it a perfect dish for both wine pairing and meals. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

“Crab Roe Lion’s Head.” (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

Before diving into the all-crab banquet, there are several must-try appetizers, especially the Shanghai-style smoked fish. In fact, Shanghai smoked fish isn’t actually smoked—it’s made by frying fish pieces and then soaking them in a flavorful marinade. It’s called “smoked fish” only because its appearance and color resemble smoked dishes. The smoked fish at Wang Baohe Hotel has a richly layered flavor—savory with a touch of sweetness, featuring a crispy, fragrant exterior and tender, well-seasoned interior. Boneless and not greasy, the fish slices are just the right thickness, offering a delightful crunch and chewiness that lingers on the palate, making it a perfect dish for both wine pairing and meals.

“Crab Roe Braised Baby Bok Choy.” (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

“Crab Roe Fish Maw”—each bite is rich, sticky, and packed with collagen. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

“Crab Meat Mushroom Soup.” (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

The dish that earned the most praise from diners at the all-crab banquet was undoubtedly the “Chrysanthemum Crab Shape,” a signature skillful dish essential for any hairy crab feast. The entire dish involves carefully removing all parts of the hairy crab meat and reassembling them to recreate the shape of a whole crab, which is then stir-fried—allowing diners to easily enjoy the full deliciousness of an entire crab. The plating is equally meticulous, featuring yellow chrysanthemums paired with a red crab, and crab legs crafted from carrots, resulting in a dish that is visually stunning, aromatic, and utterly delightful.

The “Chrysanthemum Crab Shape” features impeccable plating, with yellow chrysanthemums paired with a red crab, and crab legs crafted from carrots, resulting in a dish that is visually stunning, aromatic, and utterly delightful. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

“Crab Roe Shrimp Rolls”—the fusion of shrimp and crab flavors is simply irresistible. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

For shrimp lovers, the “Crab Roe Shrimp Rolls” are sure to satisfy. Made with crab meat, roe, and coral extracted from hairy crabs, the crab coral and roe are stir-fried to produce crab oil, then combined with the crab meat and a hint of minced ginger for flavor to create the crab roe. This crab roe is then used to stir-fry shelled shrimp, resulting in a flavor combination of shrimp and crab that’s simply mouthwatering.

“Crab Roe Xiao Long Bao.” (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

Aside from stir-fried shrimp, the “Crab Roe Fish Maw” at Wang Baohe Hotel is also highly recommended. This most luxurious crab roe fish maw dish uses one-centimeter-thick rehydrated fish maw, stir-fried with crab roe, resulting in each bite being rich, sticky, and packed with collagen.

Finally, the star of the season—the plumpest and most delicious “freshwater hairy crabs.” The hairy crabs at Wang Baohe Hotel are guaranteed to come from Shanghai’s renowned Yangcheng Lake, and the secret to their deliciousness lies in the fact that they are “boiled,” not steamed. This method ensures the crab meat’s protein remains intact, resulting in tender, smooth texture.

The hairy crabs at Wang Baohe Hotel are tied with fragrant herbs, and the boiling time over high heat is calculated based on the crab’s weight. Special medicinal ingredients are added to eliminate chill and fishy odors. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

Wang Hao, the third-generation inheritor of the Wang Baohe all-crab banquet and the hotel’s executive head chef, explained that hairy crabs are quite hairy, and boiling them is superior to steaming. For example, a 4-liang female crab should be boiled for 13 minutes after the water comes to a boil again, while a 5-liang male crab requires 14 and a half minutes. Larger crabs need even longer cooking times—attention to detail is key.

The hairy crabs at Wang Baohe Hotel are tied with fragrant herbs, and the boiling time over high heat is calculated based on the crab’s weight. Special medicinal ingredients are added to eliminate chill and fishy odors. Once cooked, the crabs are placed in a steamer basket, and as soon as they’re served, the enticing aroma of the hairy crabs wafts through the air. As you peel back the shell, the sight of the bright yellow, plump crab roe is simply irresistible. A small spoonful on the tongue bursts with rich flavor, leaving a lingering, aromatic taste—something you have to experience for yourself.

Besides the crab roe, the other highlight is the plump, tender crab meat, which pairs perfectly with specially prepared Zhenjiang vinegar mixed with a touch of sugar, soy sauce, and ginger.

The tempting aroma of the hairy crabs, with their bright yellow, plump crab roe visible upon opening the shell, is simply impossible to resist. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

Wang Baohe Hotel also offers a crab-shelling service, ensuring diners don’t have to lift a finger—waitstaff will shuck the entire crab tableside. (Photo by Chen Qiquan)

How to eat a hairy crab? It’s not only a matter of knowledge but also a skill and an art. Since the crab legs cool faster than the body, it’s recommended to start with the legs before moving to the body. Also, the leg meat is slightly coarser than the body meat, so progressing from rough to tender enhances the overall experience. Wang Baohe Hotel also provides crab-shelling service, ensuring diners don’t have to use their hands—waitstaff expertly extract the crab roe and separate the meat by section (body, legs, claws), almost like a dissection process, keeping your hands clean. But ultimately, it’s a matter of personal preference—I still prefer doing it myself, starting with cracking open the shell to enjoy the rich, golden crab roe. That’s the true essence of eating hairy crabs.

Since crabs are considered a cooling food, don’t forget to drink some hot ginger tea afterward to warm up. The hot ginger tea at Wang Baohe Hotel is made by simmering old ginger and brown sugar for a long time—a perfect, comforting end to your hairy crab feast.