Expert-guided tour: A selection of 300-year-old sweet shops in Fushimi, Kyoto!

Text & Photos /Lin Keke

Japanese cuisine has always played an important role in travel itineraries, and "desserts" are an absolute must-try. Mochi-like sweets such as yokan are often perceived as a type of traditional Japanese confectionery, but in fact, yokan did not originate in Japan. It was introduced to Japan by monks—known as "kentōshi"—who studied in China during the Kamakura to Muromachi periods. Originally, the term referred to soups such as mutton soup, pork soup, or turtle soup. Some say it was the gelatin that formed when these soups cooled, while others claim it referred to just the meat from the soup, without the broth.

Since the introduction was made by monks who had tasted these delicious soups in China, they could only try to recreate them from memory after returning to Japan. Unfortunately, Japan had limited resources at the time, and as monks were prohibited from eating meat, they substituted meat with red beans. They also used flour and kudzu powder as gelling agents. After steaming, this became what is known as "steamed yokan." Though it was vastly different from the original soups, the monks had no choice but to rely on memory and imagination, using their spirit to make up for the lack of actual ingredients, pretending it was the Chinese soup they longed for.

However, "steamed yokan," which used flour and kudzu powder as gelling agents, often failed to set properly or evenly due to the different ingredients and lack of proper technique, resulting in flat, unshapely pieces. It wasn’t until the extraction technique for kanten (agar) matured that it became possible to create a firmer texture. The fifth-generation founder of Yokan, using kanten as a gelling agent, transformed the dessert. By boiling kanten and red bean paste together and stirring (or "kneading") them evenly, then pouring the mixture into molds and allowing it to cool and solidify, the prototype of modern "nerikiri yokan" was born. Through continued improvements in ingredients and ratios, it evolved into today’s variety of yokan such as mizu yokan, neri yokan, kohaku yokan, Dōmyōji yokan, and tōsetsu yokan.

In 1546 (the 35th year of the Tenbun era), the first-generation founder, Okamoto Zenemon, opened a manjū (sweet bun) shop named "Tsuruya" in the outskirts of present-day Fushimi, Kyoto. By 1589 (the 17th year of the Tenshō era), the fifth-generation owner, also named Okamoto Zenemon, improved the method for making steamed yokan. He invented a technique using kanten as a gelling agent—by simply boiling kanten and red bean paste, stirring them evenly, pouring the mixture into molds, and letting it cool and set, he created the prototype of today’s "nerikiri yokan." Through continual refinement of ingredients and ratios, it eventually developed into today’s mizu yokan, neri yokan, kohaku yokan, Dōmyōji yokan, tōsetsu yokan, and more.

▲ Fushimi Sugimoto-ya's 'Yoru no Ume.'

"Nerikiri yokan," also known as 'Fushimi yokan' or 'red yokan,' was once presented at a large tea ceremony to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and received high praise. From then on, yokan-making techniques made significant breakthroughs and gained widespread recognition and imitation. In 1658 (the first year of the Manji era), the ingredients and methods for nerikiri yokan were officially established. In 1685 (the second year of the Jōkyō era), the Tokugawa shogunate bestowed the shop name "Sugimoto-ya" and designated the Wakayama shop as the official purveyor to the shogunate, while the Kyoto Fushimi location served as the main headquarters. This cemented Sugimoto-ya’s historical status in the evolution of yokan in Japan.

As the fame of Sugimoto-ya spread, branches multiplied across the Kansai region. Over centuries, through numerous divisions, closures, restructurings, and revivals, today’s Sugimoto-ya shops across Japan are run by different owners—much like how there are many Hong Rui Zhen bakeries, Li Ji pastry shops, and Zeng Ji sesame cakes in Taiwan. But among all the yokan shops, Fushimi Sugimoto-ya remains one true historic brand.

The signature product of Fushimi Sugimoto-ya is 'Yoru no Ume.' These small sticks cost 520 yen (excluding tax). The dark color comes from the high-quality red beans, and even though it contains some sugar, the flavor is still mild. It doesn’t feel overly sweet. Upon first bite, you won’t notice anything special, but as you chew, a deep, rich aroma gradually emerges. The aftertaste is clean and not cloying. The name 'Yoru no Ume' (Night Plum) comes from the fact that the dark color resembles plum blossoms under moonlight. Even if you see it during the day, you can still imagine the beauty of plum blossoms in the night.

'Yoru no Ume' has a firm yet smooth texture, not dry or sticky. The sweetness of the red beans and sugar is well-balanced and not overly rich. Compared to modern variations or modified types of yokan, Sugimoto-ya’s version offers a truly traditional and rustic flavor.

▲ Fushimi Sugimoto-ya 'Yoru no Ume.'

Fushimi Sugimoto-ya Main Shop
Phone: +81-75-611-0021
Address: 174 Shimoaburaga-cho, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture

Lin Keke 'Japanese Food Travel Info' Matcha Mochi Appreciation Tour
Having studied Japanese tea ceremony, she developed a deep bond with mochi. Her lifestyle closely resembles that of a Japanese person—very disciplined and serious, though she may seem stern, she’s actually the queen of dry humor. Known as 'Miss Cocoa,' she is also the leader of the 'Matcha Mochi Appreciation Tour,' specializing in Japanese mochi and matcha.

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