Normal Riding Use
Short-Term (Weekly or Ten-Day) Regular Maintenance
Medium-Term (One or Two Months) Regular Maintenance
Long-Term (Half-Year or Yearly) Regular Maintenance
Normal Riding Use
Normal riding use does not require any technical skill, but it is the most important and fundamental aspect of bicycle maintenance. Checking your bike’s condition before riding is essential, yet often overlooked. Therefore, remember to do the following checks before you ride:
Check Riding Posture and Fit:If you’re not riding your own bike, make sure to adjust the saddle height to an appropriate level before riding.
Check the Tightness of All Screws:Check whether the quick-release mechanisms on the front and rear wheels and the seatpost are tightly locked. Ensure that the handlebars are securely fixed and check for any loose screws elsewhere.
Check the Tires:Check if the tires are inflated to the proper pressure. If not, inflate them to the correct level. Inspect the tire sidewalls for cracks, cuts, or shallow tread. Replace the outer tire if necessary.
Check the Brakes:Pull the front and rear brakes to check if they can stop the bike effectively.
Check the Fork Cups:Apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. If you feel any play or looseness, the fork cups may need adjustment.
Check the Derailleur:After starting to ride, try shifting both the front and rear derailleurs to see if they shift smoothly through all gears and if there are any unusual noises.
Short-Term Regular Maintenance
Short-term maintenance is frequently performed. With normal use of your bicycle, this type of maintenance is relatively simple, but it helps keep your bike in good condition, so it must not be neglected.
Clean the Bike:In addition to keeping your bike looking as good as new, cleaning it also helps prevent rusting of the frame. If you’ve ridden in heavy rain or muddy conditions, clean the bike as soon as possible afterward. When washing your bike, pay attention to the following points:
If there isn’t much mud on the bike, or if it’s mostly dust, you can wipe it clean with a cloth or brush it off with a large brush.
Do not use a high-pressure water jet to remove dirt from the bike. Although this method is efficient, it may force water into the bearings, causing damage. In cases of heavy mud, use a brush and soapy water to clean the dirt, then rinse with clean water and dry with a cloth.
Once the bike is clean, check the paint for peeling. On steel frames, peeling paint can lead to rust. For aluminum, carbon fiber, or titanium frames, peeling only affects appearance, not durability. After washing the bike, remember to dry the chain and reapply lubricant.
Check the Brake Pads:Remove any debris from the brake pads to ensure effective braking. If the pads are significantly worn down, replace them.
Relubricate the cable housing:If the brakes or gear shifts are not working smoothly, it may be due to excessive friction between the inner and outer cables. Remove the outer cable from the cable stop, apply grease to the inner cable, and reinstall it. If the issue persists, consider replacing both the inner and outer cables.
Lubricate the chain:After applying lubricant to the chain, wait about ten minutes, then wipe off the excess oil from the outside of the chain. The internal moving parts only need lubrication—excess oil on the exterior will attract dirt and make cleaning more difficult, so it's best to wipe it clean. Additionally, if using a spray lubricant, remember to wipe off any oil that drips onto other parts.
Mid-term regular maintenance
Your bike has been serving you well for some time now, and it’s a good idea to thoroughly inspect some often-overlooked parts to keep it in optimal condition.
Check the chain:Over time, chains can stretch. The pitch of a chain is 0.5 inches, so a 24-link chain should measure 12 inches. If its length exceeds the normal length by 1/8 inch, it’s time to replace the chain.
Clean the chain:If your chain has accumulated a lot of grime inside, it might be time for a clean. You can use a chain cleaner or remove the chain and soak it in a container filled with solvent. Shake it to clean, then take it out, let it dry, and relubricate.
Check the cassette and chainrings:If you’ve replaced the chain and the cassette still skips teeth, it’s time to replace the cassette. If the chainrings show significant wear that causes chain skipping, they should also be replaced. Check the fixing bolts on the chainrings—if they’re loose, tighten them.
Check the rims:Inspect the spoke holes and valve hole areas for tiny cracks. If any cracks are found, replace the rim as soon as possible. Lift the wheel, spin it, and check whether the rim rubs against the brake pads. If it does, adjust the rim alignment.
Check the spokes:Check the spokes on both the front and rear wheels for any breaks. Replace any broken spokes. After replacing spokes, readjust the wheel truing. When truing, observe the direction of the wobble—if it leans right, loosen the nearby right-side spokes and tighten the left-side ones, and vice versa if it leans left. The lateral wobble should be less than 2mm.
Check the handlebars:Check if the handlebars have been deformed in a crash or if there are cracks near the stem clamp area. If so, replace the handlebars.
Check the saddle and saddle post:Remove the saddle post and check for deformation or cracks. If none are found, apply a thin layer of grease before reinstalling. Inspect the saddle for damage and ensure the underlying clamp is intact. Replace any damaged parts.
Long-term regular maintenance
Your bike has been through a lot over the years and has been with you all this time—it’s time for a thorough inspection of the parts that have been in constant motion.
Check the hubs:Remove the front and rear wheels and check the spoke holes near the hub for cracks. If any are found, replace the hub immediately. Rotate the hub axle by hand and shake it up and down. If you feel any play or excessive looseness, disassemble the axle, clean out the old grease, and reapply fresh grease. Reassemble the axle and ensure the bearings are adjusted so the axle turns smoothly without any up-and-down play.
Check the bottom bracket:Remove the chain, hold the crank arms, and shake them left and right. If there’s any movement, tighten the fixing bolts. If it still moves, adjust the bottom bracket bearings. Place your ear against the saddle and rotate the cranks—if you hear a smooth “whoosh” sound, it’s fine. If you hear grinding or other unusual noises, the bearings are damaged and the bottom bracket should be replaced.
Check the pedals:Remove the pedals using a 15mm open-end wrench. Note that the left pedal has a left-hand thread, so don’t remove it the wrong way. Pedal bearings usually don’t require much adjustment, but they should still be checked. If you’re using clipless pedals, ensure their mechanisms function properly and apply lubricant.
Check the derailleurs:Check whether the moving parts of the derailleurs wobble. If they do, it indicates significant wear and they should be replaced. If there’s no wobble, apply lubricant to the moving parts.
Shock Absorber Maintenance:Hydraulic front shock forks should be disassembled and refilled with new shock oil. For elastomer-type shocks, check whether the elastomer has cracks or deformation — if so, replace it. Shock absorber repairs should be carried out by consulting the original purchasing vendor.
Inspect the Frame:Check all paintwork. If there is rust that has penetrated the frame to the point of creating holes, the frame must be replaced. If the frame has been impacted and deformed, it should also be replaced.
Replace All Internal and External Cables and Housing:All cables and housing have worn down after prolonged use, so it is recommended to replace them to maintain performance.