1. Every time I patch the inner tube, it goes flat again as soon as I put it back
If the hole in the inner tube is on the inside, the rim tape may be misaligned, causing the tube to be punctured by the spokes; if it's on the outside, there may be some small, sharp objects inside the tire. Carefully feel the inside of the tire with your fingers to locate and remove the foreign object.
2. The tire keeps getting flats
Inflate the tire more. Translator’s note: Especially for road bikes, you might as well inflate it to the maximum recommended pressure for the outer tire.
3. I can't get the tire back onto the rim properly when reinstalling it
Let the air out, and push the tire into place by hand. Push the tire toward the center and check if any part of the inner tube is sticking out. Make sure the inner tube is fully inside the tire before reinflating.
4. The patch doesn't stick to the inner tube
Apply more glue and let it dry completely—about five minutes. (Don’t try to speed it up by blowing on it—that will leave moisture on the surface and prevent the glue from bonding). When using the patch, be sure to avoid touching the adhesive side with your fingers.
5. The wheel makes a squeaking noise
Some spokes might be loose. If the tension is even, the sound may be caused by slight rubbing between crossed spokes. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the crossings and wipe off any excess.
6. There's a noise when pedaling
Tighten the crank bolts. If the cranks still squeak, remove them, apply a layer of grease to the axle, then reinstall the cranks.
7. The chainring wobbles, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage
Check for loose chainring bolts.
8. You were bold enough to remove the chain and chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur shifts incorrectly
You may have installed the chainrings backwards. Remove them and reinstall correctly. Usually, the crank bolts fit squarely into the chainring mounting holes. Viewed from directly above, make sure the spacing between the chainrings is even.
9. You're trying to remove the chainring bolt, but it just spins
Use a wide flathead screwdriver or a dedicated chainring tool to hold the recess on the back of the bolt.
10. You're trying to remove or adjust the crank, but it's stripped—you can't get it off
Ride around for a bit. The crank will loosen and then you’ll be able to take it off.
11. The gear cable housing rubs against the frame and has scraped off some paint
Put transparent tape on the contact area.
12. Adjusting the rear derailleur still doesn't fix the noise and shifting issues
The freewheel lockring might be loose, causing the sprockets to wobble slightly and make noise while rotating. You’ll need a special tool to properly tighten the lockring, but you can tighten it as much as possible with your fingers to ride safely home or to a nearby bike shop.
13. The freewheel is rusty
A little rust won’t accelerate wear on the sprockets, so there’s no need to worry too much. Usually, applying a bit more lubricant can help prevent further rust, andCyclingThe chain grinds off rust over time.
14. Skipping gears when using certain gear ratios
There might be something stuck between the cassette cogs. If you can see mud, weeds, leaves, twigs, or any foreign object lodged in the cassette, remove it. These objects prevent the chain from properly engaging with the cassette. If there’s nothing visible, that cog may be worn out. This issue usually indicates that both the chain and the cassette need to be replaced.
15. The front derailleur doesn’t shift accurately onto a specific chainring
Check whether the guide plate is parallel to the chainrings (viewed from directly above), and loosen and reposition the front derailleur as needed. If it is already parallel, you may need to adjust the high/low limit screws — it’s best to have this done by a bike shop or an experienced person.
16. The rear derailleur keeps making a sharp, squealing noise
The jockey wheel is dry and needs lubrication. Apply lube from the side and wipe off any excess.