1. Beginners often shift to a smaller gear ratio immediately upon seeing a steep hill, which leads to a sudden increase in pedaling cadence. When muscles are not yet adapted, they will quickly feel fatigued. Moreover, because the gear ratio becomes too light all at once, speed will immediately drop. When seeing other riders overtake, it may also cause the already suddenly fatigued legs to increase cadence again. In this way, after just one or two hills, those using a smaller gear ratio will quickly show their weakness. Therefore, the correct shifting method when climbing is to wait until the bike has reached the middle of the slope and your feet start to feel increasing pressure before shifting gears. The adjustment range is generally about 2 or 3 chainrings at a time, depending on the specific incline. This requires not only physical strength but also experience. Standing while pedaling at the beginning of a climb can also provide greater speed and delay the reduction of the gear ratio, giving your feet more time to adapt to the cadence.
Also, when shifting gears halfway up a hill, it is common to encounter situations where the chain tension is too high, preventing the front derailleur from downshifting. Here’s a small tip: when downshifting the front chainring, slightly ease the pressure on the pedals. This can relieve some of the chain tension, making it easier for the chain to move to the smaller chainring. The same technique applies when shifting the rear cassette under high tension halfway up a hill. This helps protect the entire drivetrain system.
2. Choosing a gear ratio that is either too large or too small is inappropriate. Using a large chainring with a large cog or a small chainring with a small cog are both incorrect shifting methods. A large chainring with a large cog puts excessive tension on the chain, which can damage the rear derailleur to some extent. This shifting method also increases friction due to high chain tension. Similarly, using a small chainring with a small cog is also incorrect, as it makes the chain too loose, which can cause malfunctions during severe bumps (such as the chain hitting the frame or brushing against the edge of the tire). Moreover, the small chainring and small cog are the parts of the drivetrain that wear out the fastest. Therefore, for high speed, you should use a large chainring with a small cog, and for climbing, the easiest option should be a small chainring with a large cog. This is the correct way to use gear shifting.
Additionally, the 22-tooth smallest chainring on mountain bikes is actually the least frequently used part. One of its main purposes is to prevent the chain from directly falling off during severe bumps on the second chainring layer. However, using the 22-tooth small chainring with a large cog can easily lead to rear wheel slippage and loss of speed. Therefore, when shifting gears on a mountain bike, try to avoid using this gear combination. It is only used sparingly on extremely steep slopes, and when it is used, special attention must be paid to smooth pedaling; otherwise, it will actually make climbing steep slopes more difficult.
3. Amateur cyclists vary in physical condition, and the weight of their equipment also differs greatly (generally, a lighter bike can be one to two teeth easier than a heavier one at the same pedaling cadence). However, although a lighter bike has better acceleration and climbing performance, it is more affected by wind resistance than a heavier bike. Therefore, to take advantage of a light bike, better shifting techniques are required. The same principle applies to heavier and lighter riders controlling their own gear shifts. But both the highest gear ratio and the lowest gear ratio are not ideal. Many enthusiasts think that using the largest front chainring and the smallest rear cog will allow them to achieve good speed at the lowest cadence, but this is incorrect. A large gear ratio means each pedal stroke requires more force and results in lower cadence, slowing down blood circulation and making muscles more prone to oxygen deficiency. Also, an 11-tooth or 12-tooth cog is the least durable part of the entire drivetrain, and these are actually intended for use during high-speed descents.
During the initial warm-up kilometers, you can use a slightly smaller gear ratio to allow your blood vessels to expand and your muscles to get moving. When entering the actual high-speed phase, you can gradually increase the gear ratio and flexibly adjust according to changes in the road surface, such as uphill or downhill sections. When sprinting toward the finish line, on the contrary, you should slightly reduce the gear ratio. Once your cadence has slightly adapted to high speed, shift to an even lighter gear in the final moment to easily accelerate suddenly, achieving the fastest possible sprint cadence and exhausting all reserved energy in the last instant. But the timing and distance must be carefully managed.
★ Due to differences in bike types and individual circumstances of amateur cyclists, specific reference standards are not provided here. In short, shifting is a very important skill. Proper shifting can help you ride faster and more effortlessly.