Cycling Travel Guide

No matter where you are in the world, allow yourself enough time and don’t go too far.

Climbing is worthwhile

The hills along your route will reduce your range. In particularly hilly areas, you might manage only 20 km per day. Pay close attention to contour lines on your map, and note the difference between individual slopes and overall elevation gain.

Slopes steeper than about 5% are difficult for a fully loaded bicycle to navigate. A general rule of thumb is to add 15 minutes to your travel time for every 100 meters of elevation gain.

In hilly or mountainous areas, the easiest cycling routes usually follow downstream along major rivers — generally downhill. Long, winding routes along rivers are often easier than short, direct ones across hills or mountains. That said, the most scenic routes are often found in hilly terrain. If you’re up for a challenge, try some mountainous routes. Start small, and the views will make it worth the effort.

Try to avoid car traffic as much as possible — for example, by planning your cycling route through less densely populated areas (even in countries with good cycling infrastructure like the Netherlands or Denmark), by choosing secondary roads instead of major highways, and by staying away from big cities even if they offer good biking paths. Not only is riding alongside many cars and trucks dangerous, it’s also less enjoyable.

Maps

Ideally, you’ll have a map showing the outline of the area you’re traveling through, including attractions, accommodations, campsites, and other useful places. However, these maps tend to be very detailed and cover only small regions, and if your trip spans any real distance, you’ll find yourself needing to buy many maps, which can be expensive and heavy.

A good compromise is to buy a road atlas of the country you’re visiting, then tear out (or copy) the pages you need and carry only those. You can usually find 1:100,000 scale maps that are easy to use, yet still show some routes, campsites, and indicate any steep hills.

Many traditional maps don’t provide good information about cycling routes or bike paths. However, you can find such information online for nearly any country via OpenCycleMap and websites based on OpenStreetMap. Coverage is weaker in places with lower project activity, such as parts of South America, Africa, and Asia.

Another option is to use a GPS device loaded with topographic maps, or a PDA (possibly with GPS) that can display them. Even scanned paper maps loaded onto a PDA are better than nothing. Some GPS devices are suitable for cycling and may include OpenStreetMap data (see below #GPS Maps).

Smartphones also have GPS and can run map apps, most of which display cycling routes.

Other Information

It’s best not to take advice from non-cyclists too seriously, whether from individuals, websites, or books. They often overestimate the difficulties and underestimate the enjoyable aspects. This is especially true when considering distances, traffic conditions (particularly in developing countries), and road quality.

Equipment

Long-distance cycling requires a bit more than just basic wheels. While a few standard components can improve both comfort and convenience, every additional item you pack adds weight and requires extra energy to move.

Bicycle

A traditional touring bicycle, a Soma Double Cross, with drop bars, front and rear racks, and handlebar bags.

The intense debate around bike touring is what makes a good touring bike. Most choices depend on what kind of trip you plan to take. Some people who support touring in developed countries will have vastly different needs from those doing long self-supported trips in developing countries. The former would do very well with a lightweight road bike, while the latter would be better off with a dedicated touring bike.

Almost all bikes can be used for touring, but some will allow you to travel farther, more comfortably, with fewer mechanical issues.

Here, we assume you’ll be carrying at least a moderate amount of luggage.

A recumbent bike.

Recumbent bikes are an excellent choice for touring. Especially when camping, the 3-square-foot seat on a tadpole-style trike configuration means a much more convenient and comfortable seat. As slowly as you want, you can set up a trike very low to make hill climbing easier. With a recumbent trike, if you want to stop and look at things, take photos, check your map, or take a nap on the bike, you just pull over. No need to dismount and no risk of tipping over. The forward-facing head position makes viewing the world very comfortable. Safety-wise, trikes offer handlebar-mounted mirrors with a 180-degree rear view and let your hands easily acknowledge drivers—you can take your time (being acknowledged by friendly drivers as more patient). The wider stance, similar to a car, means drivers treat you like a car and will pass with a wide margin. Another safety feature is the lower riding position with feet on the ground, reducing the likelihood of head injuries in case of an accident. Trikes are generally hard to tip over, won’t easily fall, and handle emergency off-road ditches quite well. Lastly, most come equipped with two front disc brakes that provide plenty of stopping power without the risk of flipping. On hills, trikes are known to cruise over 50 miles while staying stable and fun. On flats, they can be a bit faster than other bikes. Uphill, they tend to be slower.

Comfort

A Dutch folding bike, ready for travel.

When spending long hours in the saddle, it’s important that the bike is comfortable for you. Things that contribute to comfort include tire choice, handlebar choice, and saddle choice. Tires should be smooth to reduce rolling resistance, wider than road (racing) tires (but narrower than most mountain bike tires). If using 700C, some in the 32–40mm range are popular; if using 26”, 1.25” or 1.75” is ideal. For handlebars, the most important thing is that they allow for multiple hand positions, which can be achieved in various ways—one option is “drop bars” like on road bikes, which are usually mounted higher on touring bikes to reduce hand pressure and offer the most hand positions. Ideally, wider drop bars would be chosen for touring rather than racing, such as 44cm. Another common way to get multiple hand positions is to install bar ends (angled bar extensions) on “flat bars” (mountain bike-style). These are cheap and convenient, but only offer one or two extra hand positions and may cost extra. Other less common but excellent options are moustache bars or butterfly bars. A good saddle really helps reduce soreness from sitting, and it’s worth spending a little extra—don’t go for the largest, squishiest saddle you can find—often soft seats wear out your sensitive areas. It’s better to choose a “carved” saddle that supports your sit bones. This is a very personal choice, and it’s hard to know what you’ll find comfortable until you try, so it’s good to find a saddle you’re happy with before you go.

Durability

Generally, a bike should be sturdier than one not meant for long-distance heavy loads. Carrying 10–20 kg requires a lighter but stronger bike. An important part is wheel choice. Wheels with 36 or 32 spokes are stronger, and double-wall rims are suitable for any tour. Avoid lightweight wheels meant for bike racing.

Load Capacity

The most basic part of being able to carry a lot of gear on your bike is simply being able to mount one (or two) racks easily. It’s important to have a hole near the rear axle for securing a rack, and it’s nice to also have one near the seat post. A front rack allows for more even weight distribution between the two wheels and more efficient handling. Being able to mount bottle cages is also good. A longer wheelbase makes the bike more stable and more comfortable to ride when loaded. Of course, having a strong enough bike is also important.

Maintainability

Nothing lasts forever. Check your bike before departure, or have it professionally inspected. When choosing (or adapting) a bike, look for mechanically simple components, as they tend to be more reliable and easier to maintain when parts eventually wear out. Avoid fully specialized components that can only be maintained by authorized dealers. Other details depend on where you’re traveling, but as a rule of thumb, don’t use the latest technology—follow reliable, proven systems. If traveling in the developing world, a good rule is to keep your bike as compatible as possible with a department store mountain bike. Such bikes are widely available in many markets, and replacement parts are common in many countries. It’s unwise to use parts common on Chinese or Indian open-top bikes often found in the developing world—they’re not only hard to find there, but also of poor quality anywhere.

Frame

Steel is a good choice for a bike frame. There are several types to choose from: high-quality chromoly steel is slightly heavier than aluminum but more durable and safer with impact damage. High-carbon steel is even heavier. Lugs are stronger than welded joints because of the extra material at the joints, but only if used properly. Titanium is the strongest, lightest, and most weather-resistant, but it’s hard to repair (requires special equipment) and not affordable for everyone.

Dedicated touring bikes like the Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek 520, Thorn Sherpa, or similar models are worth considering, but not the only options.

Clothing

There is a wide variety of cycling-specific clothing that can make your trip more comfortable and/or safe:

Helmet – Required by law in some jurisdictions. Widely recommended as a safety precaution. It also offers some protection from the sun.

Jacket – Provides protection in rainy and cool weather.

Cycling shorts – Specialized shorts that increase comfort and reduce friction, and can also be worn under loose clothing.

Tight pants — more suitable than sweatpants for cool weather, more comfortable than long pants, and less likely to get caught in the chain. Often have reflective markings at the ankles.

Gloves — Padded gloves can reduce vibration and pressure on your hands during long rides. In hot climates, you can use short-finger styles, while full-finger gloves are better for cold weather.

Glasses — UV protection is better for your long-term eye health and makes riding more comfortable. Interchangeable lenses allow you to use the optimal color for different conditions (e.g., yellow for overcast days or clear lenses for night riding).

Camping gear

Tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad — if you don’t plan to stay in towns overnight and/or want to save on expenses.

Cookware can be used to avoid eating at restaurants, even when convenience food is widely available.

GPS maps

There are several types of GPS devices designed specifically for bicycles, but note that most cannot track your route on actual maps. Rather, the hardware is bike-friendly, but the software is the same as for cars and has reduced functionality (e.g., no voice navigation). Some basic cycling GPS units only record your track and statistics without offering active route planning. Many hiking-oriented devices can also be mounted on handlebars with an adapter. Lastly, smartphone apps can be used, though be mindful of battery life, rain, and other pitfalls of long-distance travel.

Stay safe

Here are some simple but important things you should do when planning a bike trip:

Familiarize yourself with basic repairs, especially fixing a flat tire. This site has better information on specialized tools, as does Sheldon Brown’s website.

Make sure you bring enough water: you might consume up to a gallon per hour while biking.

Eating

Food choices largely depend on where in the world you are, so refer to the respective sections on diet for more details. When embarking on a strenuous trip, it’s important to get enough energy from food. It’s a good idea to choose high-carbohydrate and high-fat foods, and protein is also necessary for long journeys. Trips starting from major towns may require preparing quality food for a while, so you can include meat products if needed.

Taking your bike on public transport

Bringing your bike to the starting point of the route you want to ride is an adventure in itself, and you’ll need to research the best way to transport it.

Riding your bike from home is the easiest and cheapest method, as long as you’re willing to start from your area of residence.

Airplanes may require one or all of the following: securing the pedals in place; partially deflating the tires. The best way to protect your bike is to pack it in a special case (most bike shops will happily provide you with a sturdy cardboard box for bikes), and airlines often require this. Airline policies on allowing bikes as checked baggage vary: some permit it, while others charge extra. In almost all cases, you need to inform the airline in advance that you intend to check a bike. Read the regulations before checking in, as airline staff may charge you if the bike could otherwise travel as carry-on. For packing, you’ll need to remove the pedals and front wheel, and either remove or turn the handlebars. Large boxes are allowed if they meet the airline’s size limits, for a fee.

Buses and bike trailers in Germany

Buses may have luggage compartments under the seats that can fit one or two bikes, or onboard cargo areas, roof racks, or no bike accommodation at all. Buses may also require bikes to be disassembled and boxed. Also, check scheduled times in advance.

Trains may have plenty of space for bikes, such as luggage cars, or may not transport them at all. If the train requires seat reservations, check whether you may need to handle your bike and possibly box it during booking. If you travel on non-reserved services, avoid peak hours; many round-trip services do not accommodate bikes during peak times or do not have cars for boxed bikes. Commuter trains may have onboard racks. Note that no Amtrak service in the U.S. Northeast allows bikes.

Ferries are very bike-friendly and most have no issues transporting bikes. Some may charge an additional fee. On car ferries, you can usually drive your bike directly to where you board, and there are often ropes to secure it.