Everest
Everest Base Camp is at an altitude of 5,200 meters — a height that can make your whole body tingle just hearing about it. Most people give up on their dream trip upon learning the elevation, deterred by concerns over altitude adaptation. But actually, it's not as scary as it sounds. Many travelers visit Everest Base Camp, and you can too!
Some people may experience altitude sickness when they first arrive in Lhasa, but usually adapt after about two days.
However, if you’re going on a self-driving trip or are coming from northeastern China, Beijing, or Tianjin, it’s still recommended to bring some altitude sickness prevention equipment, such as oxygen supply devices. For example, there’s a car-mounted oxygen generator sold on Taobao under the brand Longlifu, which is pretty good. I bought one from them. Once I reached 4,000 meters above sea level, the difference with and without the oxygen machine was obvious. Having the oxygen generator on board really made things more comfortable, and I could even drive uphill with the setting at levels 3-4.
If you want to go to Everest, it's best to acclimate in Lhasa for at least three days. After three days with no major issues, you can safely head to Everest. Some people take Rhodiola Rosea before heading to Tibet, claiming it helps improve oxygen tolerance. I started taking it two days before my departure. Whether it helped or not, I didn’t experience altitude sickness in Tibet — but I’m definitely grateful for that car-mounted oxygen generator, which made the journey much more pleasant.
A border permit is required to go to Everest. In Beijing, you can apply at various police stations by bringing a unit certificate and a photo — it’s free. In Lhasa, travel agencies handle the application at the Border Visa Office. No photo is needed, but the agency provides a certificate, and the visa fee is 10 yuan (the agency charges 50 yuan). The visa office is only open during business hours, and in Lhasa, that means starting at 9:00 AM. Be prepared to wait in line — by the time you get your visa, it’s often already 11:00 AM. After that, head first to Shigatse City, then go to Everest the next day.
The temperature difference between day and night at Everest is significant, but there’s no need to worry too much. A windbreaker, fleece-lined inner layer, wind pants, and thin wool pants should be sufficient. Some people rent heavy coats and sleeping bags, but that’s really unnecessary.
From Lhasa to Everest, all vehicles are off-road cars. Typically, four people share one vehicle. If you’re carpooling, the minimum cost is around 4 yuan per kilometer. Travel agencies also arrange shared rides with groups of four. The route follows National Highway 318 all the way to Dingri County, where you purchase tickets for Everest. The individual ticket is 180 yuan, and the vehicle ticket is 400 yuan. The ticket features a row of snow-capped mountains — including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Makalu — all lined up as if welcoming you. This real-life scene can be seen on the way to Everest at a mountain pass viewpoint specially designed for viewing the snowy peaks. The Everest ticket makes for a great souvenir. Unfortunately, when we went, the tickets were sold out, and we only got a receipt — a bit of a letdown.
The road that branches off from Highway 318 toward Everest is a gravel road — the classic washboard type that jolts every part of your body. Be prepared for that. Although the road is rough, it’s quite wide, and the mountain switchbacks don’t feel dangerous.
Everest Base Camp lies in a valley between two mountains. The valley is relatively flat — essentially a riverbed covered in pebbles. At the far end of the valley is Everest itself. The base camp area has been leveled and is quite spacious, surrounded by tents — all temporary structures. Every year in April, Tibetan herders haul the tents up the mountain with tractors, and take them down again around the end of September. The rest of the year, the base camp is empty. The Everest Post Office at the base camp is also a tent-based one.
Meltwater from Everest forms a small, murky white river that rushes loudly past the base camp. The sound can be quite loud at night. There are many wild pigeons at the base camp, as well as a type of small bird that resembles a sparrow but isn’t. Neither are afraid of people — you can even feed them bread.
The tents at the base camp lodge are very clean, with carpets on the floor and beds set up around the space. The quilts are also clean and warm. Some say the quilts at the base camp are dirty, but that’s unfounded. The tents are mixed-gender, so guests don’t sleep in the nude. With the cold temperatures, people don’t sweat much, so bacteria can't really grow — hence the quilts look and feel clean. Though some tents have slightly damp floors, there’s no moldy smell. Each bunk bed costs 60 yuan.
When you arrive at the base camp around 4 or 5 PM, drop off your luggage first. It’s recommended to put on your windbreaker and pants — no need for the fleece lining yet. Buy an eco-car ticket to ride to the Everest stone tablet for a close-up view. There’s a border sentry post there, guarded by armed police who will check your ID and return it when you come back. There’s also a small hill about ten meters high — if you plan to climb it, take it slowly; moving too fast will leave you breathless. Also, once you step out of the vehicle, the oxygen machine won’t be of much use. You can also explore the riverbank area — you might find a beautiful fossil. There are plenty of fossil hunters around. If you walk along the road, it takes about an hour and a half to reach the tablet, but you can take the eco-car down without needing to show your ticket.
Dinner can be had in the tents — there are stir-fried dishes, though not many options. Instant noodles are 15 yuan, and egg-and-tomato noodles are 20 yuan. After dinner, head out to enjoy the scenery. It’s recommended to wear your fleece-lined inner layer, as it gets really cold once the sun sets. Dress warmly in the morning too — it’s cold then as well. Bring a headlamp or flashlight to Everest — you’ll need it for late-night or early-morning trips to the toilet.
At night, the tents are heated with stoves, which lowers the oxygen level inside — most people will feel some effects, but it gets better with time. If you brought an oxygen bottle, you can use it. My own experience felt like being drunk — nauseous but unable to throw up. Later, when the wind picked up and fresh air came in, I immediately felt better. Many say they can’t sleep at Everest, but I slept just fine.