Crispy, fragrant, and melts in your mouth — Bridgehead Stinky Tofu in Hualien boasts top-notch frying skills

Photos & Text byXiaohu’s Dream Food Blog
Not long ago, my good friend Weiwei, upon learning that our rail-based island-wide trip would take us to “Yuli,” kept reminding us non-stop that there’s an exceptionally delicious stinky tofu place in Yuli. Given her picky standards, I naturally took note.

However, when we actually arrived, we almost gave up on this place—arguably the best stinky tofu I’ve had in recent years—due to time constraints. But after eating it, I decided to include it in my 2013 Xiaohu Top Ten list. For those unaware of last year’s Xiaohu Top Ten and the featured shops, please refer to the 2012 Year in Review (Xiaohu’s Top Ten & Top Five Recommended Spots).


That day, today in fact, because it was just so delicious, Xiaohu decided to write about it on the very same day we ate there. Ironically, what I had originally planned to write about today was also stinky tofu—but from Yuanli in Miaoli. The reason? Well, I think it goes without saying =). In the photo above, just fifteen minutes before this shot was taken, the shop had just opened its doors. After buying Yuli sheep cake as a souvenir, we came back to find the place packed with people. At that point, there were only about 30 minutes left before our train departed...


Fortunately, during our first pass by, we asked the owner when they start selling, and he kindly offered to let us take a number and come back in 20 minutes. Thank goodness… really, because otherwise, we wouldn’t have gotten to taste what is definitely one of the top three best stinky tofu experiences in my book.


The shop has roughly 30–40 seats inside and out, but having seats didn’t help much—three people frantically frying stinky tofu still couldn’t keep up with the tide of customers pouring in.


You might look at the crowd gathered around the fryer and wonder if they’re scrambling or fighting for it, but actually, to get this stinky tofu, you have to take a number first. However, Xiaohu thought this was great—you don’t have to stand in a long queue; you can sit and wait, then just go up when your number is called.


At first, I thought they were using three fryers simultaneously, but after tasting it, something felt off, so I took a closer look and realized the middle fryer is likely used for what they call “crisping” and “blasting off the oil”—meaning I’m guessing the oil there is hotter. I noticed they first fry the tofu in the side fryers, then, after a while, transfer the cooked stinky tofu into the middle fryer for a second go.

While waiting, I also tried a drink from the fridge that looked like some kind of old-fashioned black tea. At 15 NT$, it didn’t exactly seem cheap for such a rural area.


They call it old-fashioned, but it tasted a little different from the black tea I know from Taipei. It seemed to lack that hint of sweetness I later realized comes from cassia seeds.

But having said that, it was still quite smooth and easy to drink. The sweetness level was slightly higher than I prefer, but it didn’t leave that cloying, gritty feeling on the tongue (I really hate that kind of black tea—for example, certain brands’ black tea gives you that sandy texture after a sip).


The stinky tofu could be smelled from far away, but to Xiaohu, the smell was simply delightful—it made my mouth water uncontrollably, it was “fragrant” beyond belief... When it was served, the moment I saw those holey crispy skins on the tofu, I turned to the girl sitting at about 45 degrees to my right and said, “This must be super crispy.”
Even before tasting it, I noticed this stinky tofu was different from what you typically get in Taipei—not only was it served with the usual pickled veggies, but also shredded radish and chopped Thai basil. Instead of regular chili sauce, it came with a slightly sweet pepper sauce, vibrant in color with hues of yellow, white, green, and red—very appetizing.


First, let’s talk about the skin. It looks solid, but with just a poke of chopsticks, it crumbles apart. Once in the mouth, that crispness lasts only 0.0001 seconds—but it’s unforgettable. I’m convinced this place fries their tofu better than any I’ve ever had. What’s even more impressive is that it’s “absolutely,” “completely,” “utterly,” “totally,” “not oily.” Even the person to my upper right—who usually wouldn’t touch a bite of stinky tofu—called it the best she’s ever had.

Of course, I said after just one bite, “Good thing we didn’t skip it.”


This stinky tofu isn’t just incredibly crispy on the outside—the softness of the tofu itself is also unbelievable. The moment it enters your mouth, it just melts like steamed stinky tofu. Yes, no chewing needed—it just “melts” away, leaving only tofu juice and sauce mingling in your mouth. The texture is incredibly delicate, seriously freaking delicious and insanely satisfying... If we hadn’t been pressed for time and didn’t need to get back in line for another number, I definitely would’ve ordered another serving.

Lastly, let’s talk about the flavors I loved in this stinky tofu: first, the sauce starts sweet and gradually transitions into a mild saltiness; second, the sweet-spicy sauce has just a light sweetness that doesn’t overpower the other flavors; third, although the pickled veggies are tasty too, I think the juiciness of the shredded radish and the aroma of the Thai basil are the most standout elements in the aftertaste.

If there’s any flaw to this stinky tofu, it’s that the pure, unadulterated fragrance of the tofu itself is slightly lighter. For example, the stinky tofu from Huaron Street has a denser texture inside and more captivating tofu juice. But honestly, that’s just Xiaohu nitpicking—this is still absolutely amazing.


Conclusion: Coming to Yuli without trying Yuli noodles is one thing, but skipping this stinky tofu would be a total waste. (I heard there’s also a branch in Hualien City, but I don’t know if it’s just as good.)


【Bridgehead Stinky Tofu】

Address:No. 15, Minquan Street, Yuli Town, Hualien County
Phone:(03) 888-2545
Business Hours:17:00–23:30

Xiaohu’s Dream Food Blog
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