From a place of vice to a hipster hotspot: Coloane’s Rua da Felicidade, where time stands still

▲Rua da Felicidade in the Macau Peninsula.

Reported and photographed by Journalist Yu Jiayun

Besides enjoying hotel entertainment and sampling diverse cuisines in Macau, the rich cultural history tucked away in the old city’s alleys is another must-experience highlight. Rua da Felicidade, once a bustling commercial district and red-light area, features rows of striking red buildings that speak to its vibrant past. Today, alongside its surviving shops and restaurants, it has become a must-visit destination for tourists. Strolling along this century-old street of traditional Chinese architecture, every snapshot feels like a journey through time.

▲Every household has painted their doors red.

▲A streetscape that feels like time travel.

Located in the southwestern part of the Macau Peninsula, Rua da Felicidade is the main thoroughfare of the Rua da Felicidade district. The Lingnan-style buildings on both sides date back over a hundred years, with their latticed windows, doorways, and metal plaques reflecting the town’s former appearance. Rua da Felicidade was originally a hub for tea houses but gradually declined as Hong Kong rose in prominence and Macau’s trade suffered, leading merchants to leave the area.

▲Rua da Felicidade was once a commercial district and red-light area.

After Hong Kong banned prostitution in 1932, Macau’s sex industry flourished, giving rise to the infamous trio of vices: gambling, opium, and prostitution. The street became home to brothels and opium dens, where patrons sipped tea. Due to its brothel culture, nearly all the doors, iron gates, and window frames on Rua da Felicidade were painted in bright shades of red, creating an otherworldly atmosphere as you turn into the alleyway—as if you could witness the Rua da Felicidade of yesteryear, known as a place of vice.

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