Huamei Tun

　　Located in the eastern part of Zhijin County, at the 65-kilometer mark along the highway from the county town to the provincial capital, Guiyang, on the right side of the Aoha Bridge, there stands a mountain stretching from east to west. The eastern, southern, and northern sides of the mountain are bordered closely by the Boduo River. The eastern and northern edges feature cliffs as high as several dozen to over a hundred meters, while the southern base has rock walls about 10 meters high. Above that, the forested slope inclines at an 80-degree angle all the way to the summit, with no paths to climb. The only accessible route is a 70-degree slope on the western side leading to the top. The summit is flat and slopes gently from west to east, measuring over 1 kilometer in length and more than 800 meters in width, covering an area of nearly 1 square kilometer. Viewed from north to south, the mountain resembles a giant ship setting sail, with its “bow” facing east, standing opposite the cliff on the Qingzhen side across the river with a hundred-meter-high precipice. Its “stern” lies to the west, where the ancient provincial courier route once passed beneath, forming a natural mountain pass known as Bodu Pass. Crossing the pass and descending eastward through Boduo Ferry and climbing up the Dagchong Gorge leads to Qingzhen. From the Aoha Bridge, looking southeast, one can see the steep cliffs on both sides towering above the surging waters of the Sancha River, an imposing sight comparable to the Qutang Gorge’s Kuimen in the Three Gorges — locally called the “Two Gates.” Beneath these gates lies the Zhenhe Ferry. This stretch of river is a spectacular section of the Sancha River Gorge within the Dongfeng Lake scenic area. The mountain earned its name “Huameiqing” (literally, “Thrush Valley”) due to the renowned thrush birds inhabiting its dense forests — known both for their beautiful songs and fierce fighting. Over time, people began calling it “Huamei Qing.” During the turbulent Xianfeng and Tongzhi eras of the Qing Dynasty, rebel forces frequently emerged and disappeared, crossing the river via Qingzhen and Pingba to attack Zhijin. Consequently, wealthy households from the three counties along the river agreed to build a fortress halfway up the western slope of Huameiqing. They constructed a wall of large stones with a central “barrier gate,” and stone walls extending to the cliffs on both sides to encircle and protect the summit, resembling a miniature Great Wall — serving as a stronghold for self-defense and settlement. From then on, people began referring to Huamei Qing as Huamei Tun. After its completion, Huamei Tun, together with Niu chang Tun (Ox Field Fort) of Ding Baozhen, became a strategic outpost guarding the river mouth on Zhijin’s eastern route. To strengthen its presence, the wealthy families invited nearby farmers to settle in the fort. In the first month of the lunar year 1865 (the fourth year of the Tongzhi reign), the rebel troops of He Desheng from Weng’an County occupied Maochang in Zhijin. Farmers around Huamei Tun rushed to bring pigs, sheep, cattle, and horses to settle in the fort, making it rich in grain and supplies. In February, He Desheng’s forces besieged Huamei Tun but failed to capture it after a prolonged attack, so they set up camps in the Boduo Pass area to maintain a standoff. After more than 40 days, due to drought and lack of rain, the inhabitants of the fort suffered from water shortages for both people and animals. They had to lower people down the cliffs with ropes to secretly draw water from the river. When the rebels learned of this, they set an ambush to cut off the water supply route. Desperate, the defenders negotiated for peace. The rebels pretended to agree under the condition of trading for cattle and horses, and both sides began trading at the pass. On the first day, over 3,000 livestock were sold down from the fort in exchange for water being transported back up. After several such trades, the defenders let their guard down, believing the arrangement was genuine. Seizing the opportunity, the rebels launched a sudden attack on the fort gate during a trade session. A large force followed, quickly taking the gate. The defending militiamen and civilians fought desperately but were overwhelmed, with over a thousand killed, and ultimately lost the fort. After its fall, thousands of civilians were killed or jumped off the cliffs, and all valuables and livestock were looted. Over 100 years later, the fort gate has been destroyed, with only a few sections of broken walls remaining. Whether passing beneath the fort by vehicle or cruising along Dongfeng Lake toward the Sancha River Gorge, travelers can still gaze upon the majestic sight of Huamei Tun and the “Two Gates,” paying tribute to the history of the great farmer uprisings against the Qing Dynasty during the Xianfeng and Tongzhi eras. Huamei Tun and the nearby Niu chang Tun to its east stand as enduring monuments to the people’s resistance against Qing rule, preserved for all to visit, appreciate, and remember.