Xi'an Grilled Meat Skewers

Xi'an Grilled Meat Skewers

　　Street Food Celebrity: Grilled meat skewers only became popular in Xi'an within the past 20 years or so. When they first appeared in the city 20 years ago, most vendors were from Xinjiang, as Xi'an didn’t have its own grilled meat culture—the tradition was brought over from Xinjiang. His name is Ma Kuaping, but locals simply call him Pingwa. In Xi'an, when people mention Pingwa’s grilled meat, they all know it’s the chubby grill master behind the Drum Tower.

　　Pingwa has done pretty well in the grilled meat business, expanding from a roadside stall to a restaurant with hundreds of square meters, over 40 employees, and even a hired manager. But back when he was just slicing and skewering meat for Xinjiang cooks, he never imagined he’d end up here.

　　Most of the early grilled meat vendors were, as Pingwa put it, people who had no other options and ended up in this line of work. After all, the overhead for selling grilled skewers is low—even if the profits are modest, there’s no shortage of customers.

　　A major shift in grilled meat also happened around this time. As more Xi'an locals started selling it, the flavor began to cater to local tastes. The exact trick is hard to pinpoint, but the seasonings remained the classic three, with the addition of a custom-made grilled meat sauce. The meat slices are small and thin, and every skewer must include fatty pieces to achieve that juicy, flavorful taste. With these changes, grilled meat became Xi'an’s own—and the originally authentic Xinjiang-style skewers gradually faded away.

　　Grilled meat skewers are especially beloved in Xi'an. It’s not uncommon for young men to treat them as a full meal—eating a hundred or so skewers in one go, washing them down with two bottles of beer, and feeling that deeply satisfying fullness you just can’t find elsewhere.

　　Xi'an’s grilled meat has its own quirks: first, “not sold during the day, only at night,” and second, “not lamb, but beef.” Grilled meat stalls have a bit of a bar-like vibe—deserted during the day, bustling until one or two in the morning. Xi'an’s night markets are thriving, and grilled meat dominates them, with the Muslim Quarter’s offerings being the most famous.

　　From outsiders to locals, from street stalls to restaurants, Xi'an’s grilled meat has evolved through countless changes. But in today’s increasingly environmentally conscious world, the daily smoke and fumes have drawn complaints from nearby residents. Can the story of grilled meat skewers continue? Still, Pingwa has come up with a new idea. He installed a dust removal device, and now the smoke that comes out after filtration looks almost like water vapor.

　　This time, Xi'an’s grilled meat vendors are ahead of the environmental authorities. Pingwa spent tens of thousands of yuan on the equipment. But he personally doesn’t think it was a waste—environmental protection is something everyone should take responsibility for. If vendors get shortsighted and refuse to invest, they might be the ones responsible for ending the grilled meat story—and that would be a real shame, letting down the regulars who come by daily for a chat and a laugh.

　　Food Feature: Deliciously fragrant—the cumin and chili are perfectly balanced.