Hanzhong Vegetable Tofu
Vegetable tofu is a beloved home-style dish that the people of Hanzhong never tire of.
The making of vegetable tofu is highly meticulous. The first step is to grind soaked and swollen beans into a pulp. Once the pulp is ready, it is carefully filtered to remove the residue, then poured into a pot. The soy milk is brought to a boil, chopped Chinese cabbage is added, and the process of coagulating the tofu begins.
The quality of the vegetable tofu depends entirely on this “coagulation” step. In Hanzhong, it is customary for every household to consume pickled vegetable water. Using high-quality sour bean water to coagulate the tofu results in a tofu that is white, fine-textured, soft, and tender, with a long-lasting aftertaste and a hint of sweetness. This is unlike tofu made with traditional chemical coagulants such as gypsum or brine, which tend to taste astringent and bitter.
Coagulating must be done properly—sour bean water is added every four or five minutes, one spoonful at a time, slowly and patiently. After several rounds, when the soybean curds gradually solidify into layers and the whey and tofu become distinctly separated, gently scoop it up, wrap it in cheesecloth, and press it into blocks. The tofu blocks, interspersed with green vegetables, are jade-white in color with a refreshing sour aroma that is truly mouthwatering. Meanwhile, washed rice is added to the filtered sour water used for making tofu to cook congee. Simmer over low heat, occasionally stirring the bottom of the pot with an iron spoon. The congee should not be too thick nor too thin—the broth should be rich and the rice soft. Then, cut the tofu into small pieces, return them to the pot, and simmer briefly with the congee. A pot of aromatic, tangy vegetable tofu congee is now complete.
Eating vegetable tofu is also an art. It is usually served with side dishes, and even these have their own special preparation methods. Typically, chopped scallions, cilantro, minced ginger, mashed garlic, green chili peppers, sesame oil, sesame seeds, ground walnut kernels, spicy bean paste, pickled vegetables, and chili oil are mixed together in a bowl as a condiment. This meal is not meant to be eaten hastily but rather enjoyed methodically—take a bite of tofu, then a spoonful of the soup or congee; one mouthful rich and fragrant, the next fresh and light. Mixing it up carelessly will ruin the flavors. Start by sipping a careful spoonful of the hot broth, naturally fragrant and soothing to the lips. Then use chopsticks to pick up some of the side dish and spread it onto the tofu before eating. Chew slowly and savor the layers—the sweetness of the tofu, the tangy fragrance of the congee, the spiciness of the side dish—all combine in a delightful harmony that is truly unforgettable.
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