Hekou's Three Delicacies

Hekou's Three Delicacies

　　Hekou's Three Delicacies

　　Chenghai Lake is one of Yunnan’s nine major plateau lakes and the largest in both area and water volume within Lijiang City. It is renowned for its abundant aquatic resources, especially for producing natural spirulina.

　　Originally an open lake belonging to the Jinsha River system, Chenghai was connected to the outside world via a river called the Chenghe. At the junction of the lake and river was a fishing village named Hekou Village. Later, as the climate changed and the water level of Chenghai dropped year by year, it became a closed inland lake. However, the place name "Hekou" has been retained and is still in use today.

　　Hekou Village gained fame for a famous unpaired couplet that no one has yet managed to complete: "Hekou’s Three Delicacies: chili, tofu, white fish." This is a wordplay couplet: “Hekou” is the place name, which when broken down becomes “three delicacies,” referring to three local specialties: chili, tofu, and white fish. The first line seems casually composed and simple, but crafting a matching second line that is equally well-balanced and meaningful has stumped generations of scholars and literati—so much so that no suitable counterpart has been found to this day.

　　Chili may be a common item, but Hekou’s chili is famous far and wide. Perhaps it’s the sandy soil and unique climate here, or perhaps it's the traditional local variety—wealthier households across the county love to buy Hekou chili as a premium seasoning at home. Hekou chili isn’t just about heat; it’s spicy with aroma, deliciously spicy.

　　Tofu isn’t a rare thing either, but Hekou’s tofu is simply different from tofu elsewhere. Exactly how it’s different might only be something experts can explain. But if you taste Hekou tofu alongside other tofus, anyone can tell the difference. Once you’re used to Hekou tofu, other tofus just don’t taste the same. Maybe it’s the local environment, or maybe it’s the unique production technique—whatever the reason, Hekou tofu is just delicious. So much so that when the county receives distinguished guests from afar, they often drive dozens of miles specifically to Hekou to buy tofu.

　　If chili and tofu are everyday items, then white fish is a genuine local specialty. In truth, white fish isn't exclusive to Hekou—it can be found throughout Chenghai Lake—but thanks to Hekou’s chili and tofu, the white fish here seems to taste even better and is more famous.

　　Chenghai Lake produces around twenty to thirty species of fish, with four or five being endemic, but white fish is the most beloved.

　　White fish has low yields—among a catch, you might only get two or three. They grow to no more than a foot long, with slender, silvery-white bodies, tender meat, and a delicious flavor. Perhaps due to their high protein content, in times of nutritional scarcity, many families bought and ate white fish as if it were medicine—only the elderly, women, and children in poor health had priority access to it.

　　With all three delicacies ready, you can enjoy a wonderful meal. For the best fish, cook it in Chenghai water with the fish still alive, and add the tofu in too. There's no need to drizzle oil on the chili—just roast it over charcoal, and instead of pounding it, simply tear it apart by hand. Fresh chili works too; just roast it, chop it up, and make a dipping sauce. Mixing fresh and dried chili together creates an even richer and more distinctive flavor. When the fish and tofu are cooked, dip them in the sauce—the burst of freshness, the rich aroma—it’s an experience you truly have to taste for yourself.

　　Not far from Hekou is Maojiawan, the ancestral home of Mao Zedong. The people in this area migrated here during the Ming Dynasty from Huguang (a historical region), known for their intelligence and love of refinement. They’ve infused many things with cultural meaning, making them fascinating to outsiders.

　　Hundreds of years have passed, and the couplet for Hekou’s Three Delicacies still only has the first line. People eat the three delicacies, think about the three delicacies, rack their brains—but still, no perfect second line has emerged. Who knows when this solitary first line, lonely for centuries, will finally find its match? Only time will tell.

　　Hekou’s Three Delicacies: chili, tofu, white fish. Welcome everyone to come taste them—and to try your hand at composing the matching couplet.