Zizhong Dongjian (Fermented Mustard Tips)

Zizhong Dongjian

Zizhong Dongjian is a protected geographical indication product.

　　Zizhong Dongjian is made by fermenting and storing a unique local vegetable known as loquat-leaf mustard (also called winter mustard) through traditional pickling and cellar fermentation. It had already gained nationwide fame during the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty and was exported to places like Beijing and Shanghai. In the 27th year of Emperor Guangxu’s reign (1901), after Luo Chengxiang became the top imperial scholar, he asked someone to bring him two dan of Dongjian from his hometown to the capital, which he shared with colleagues. Grand Secretary Sun Jiafeng praised it highly after tasting it and composed a poem: “The tips of loquat-leaf mustard are chosen with care, / Their exquisite pickling a secret art rare. / A seasoning that tops all dishes served at meals, / Zizhong’s Dongjian truly lives up to the tales.” Its reputation soared even higher — even Li Lianying came asking for some, saying, “Her Majesty the Empress Dowager has caught the fragrance.”

　　 Zizhong Dongjian really does have a strong aroma. If you carry a couple of packets in your travel bag, it may not be so noticeable south of the Qinling Mountains, but once you cross them, the fragrance will immediately fill the air. The whole train carriage will become aromatic, and passengers from other compartments will often come over and ask in amazement, “What’s that amazing smell?”

　　 Dongjian is extremely versatile. Finely chopped, it can be used as filling for dumplings, buns, or wontons; as a base for steamed meats or cured pork belly (xian shaobai); or as a flavor enhancer for soups. It can also be minced with pork and mixed with a bit of distiller’s yeast, then stir-fried into a dry stuffing that pairs perfectly with rice — it’s incredibly delicious, making it especially popular among northerners who aren’t fond of spicy flavors. In 1957, Zizhong Dongjian ranked second at the National Dried Pickled Vegetables Conference; in 1958, 50 tons were exported by the Guangzhou Import and Export Company to Hong Kong and various Southeast Asian countries; in 1983, it won the Quality Product Award jointly issued by the Sichuan Provincial Department of Commerce and the Provincial Economic Commission, as well as the Gold Award at the Bashu Food Festival.

　　 The lower section of the winter mustard shoot, called “er tongzi,” can be sliced thinly and pickled into what’s known as “cai pizi” (vegetable skin). When seasoned, it also makes a delicious snack.

　　The Legend of Zizhong Dongjian

　　Legend has it that long ago, there lived a couple on the outskirts of Zizhong city — the husband surnamed Zhao, the wife surnamed Qian. In front of their house was a vegetable garden surrounded by more than ten loquat trees. One summer during the loquat harvest season, the trees were covered in golden fruit. The husband, Old Zhao, went to Baiyun Mountain to dig up medicinal herbs. When he returned home in the evening, he found not a single loquat left on the trees. Alarmed, he slipped off his carrying pole, and the load of herbs tumbled into the pond by the edge of the garden. It turned out that the ripe loquats had fallen to the ground due to the wind, and their sweet juice had soaked into the soil. Later, the couple planted mustard greens in the garden, and the leaves that grew resembled those of loquat trees. Some of the herbs in the bundle contained aromatic spices that, after soaking in water, emitted an extraordinary fragrance. When used to water the vegetables, the mustard grew exceptionally lush. When the greens matured, the leftovers were salted and stored in jars, which were then buried underground in the garden. About a year later, when the jars were dug up, the vegetables inside were found to be dark, glossy, and strongly fragrant. Whether stir-fried with meat, cooked in soup, or used as an accompaniment for noodles or dumplings, they were delicious. Because these vegetables needed to be stored through the winter and were made from the tender tips of mustard greens, they came to be known as “dongjian” (winter tips). This method spread throughout Zizhong, and as more families started making it, it developed into a local specialty.

　　Zizhong Dongjian, a specialty of Neijiang in Sichuan, has been approved by the State Administration for Market Regulation for protection as a geographical indication product. Made from the unique local loquat-leaf mustard using traditional pickling, fermenting, and cellar storage techniques, Zizhong Dongjian has a long production history and an established reputation, having already gained national fame during the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty. With its rich fragrance and distinctive flavor, it can be used as filling for dumplings, buns, or wontons, as a base for steamed meats or cured pork belly, or as a soup flavoring — all equally delicious and widely loved.

　　The protected geographical indication area for Zizhong Dongjian is defined according to the scope submitted in the letter “Regarding the Submission of Information Concerning the Protected Geographical Indication Area for Zizhong Dongjian” (Zizhong Government Letter [2007] No. 51) from the People’s Government of Zizhong County, Sichuan Province, covering the entire current administrative region of Zizhong County, Sichuan Province.

　　Source: People’s Government of Neijiang City

　　Source: People’s Government of Neijiang City