Fine-scaled turtles from Tingjiang

Fine-scaled turtles from Tingjiang

　　“In May, the Tingjiang River flows with emerald waves, Where hidden caves at the waterfall teem with fine-scaled fish. They leap upstream through the surging rapids like dragons ascending, Or swim in orderly groups emerging from ten streams. With purple ginger as seasoning stirred by a silver spoon, And red chili blended into the delicacy, one marvels at the feast. In Yangcun village, no elaborate dishes are served to guests— Just listen to the tavern songs poured by the innkeeper.” This is a poetic tribute to a type of fine-scaled turtle unique to the mountain streams of the county. The old records of Shifang County note: “The mountain produces fine-scaled fish, which are no less delicious than those from Bing Cave or the Yellow River. Their backs are black-scaled, their skin texture resembles jade, their bodies richly fatty, and their flesh extremely delicious.”

Investigations reveal that this fish species generally inhabits the upper reaches of the Shiting River, particularly along the river sections from Hongbai and Sanhe up to the Gaojing Pass. They spawn in spring and autumn, reproducing in deep waters within rocky caves. Their fine black scales and thick, fleshy bodies yield meat that is free of earthy flavors. Their appearance closely resembles that of the renowned “Bing Cave Fish” found in the Qiang River and Dadu River. Typically weighing between 1.5 and 3 jin (0.75–1.5 kg), some can even reach 5 jin (2.5 kg). In the past, when the mountain gorges were deep and secluded, fish schools would gather under the clear pools where streams converged. At that time, only rugged footpaths allowed access. From Guanyin Rock in today’s Hongbai Township all the way to the area outside Gaojing Pass, and formerly in front of the Dawang Temple, these fish could be seen in abundance in the deep-water zones, yielding plentiful catches. At the waterfall of Meizilin, where the water plunges down, especially during the peak flood season of the peach blossom water, on bright sunny days, silver waves splash and fish can be seen leaping upstream against the current, creating a spectacular scene. Locals therefore called it the “Little Dragon Gate.” Back then, the mountains were sparsely populated, and the fish lived in a natural, unthreatened environment, swimming joyfully and breeding naturally. Nowadays, however, due to mountain development, road construction, the rise of factories and mines, river pollution, as well as excessive and destructive fishing practices, the reproduction of fine-scaled turtles has become increasingly rare. The ancient town of Yangcun, once known for selling fine-scaled turtles and rich in local flavor, has also declined.

This ancient town of Yangcun is today’s Zhujiaqiao Village, an ancient settlement from the Han Dynasty located just outside the Gaojing Pass, where Li Bing once opened the spillway. Later, due to frequent flooding, the settlement was relocated to areas such as Houziqiao and Yanzilin, gradually moving downward until it finally settled around Jiezi Chang and Yongxing Chang—that is, the area of today’s Luoshui Town. As late as 1949, the majestic Gaojing Pass still stood at the mountain entrance, and fish still thrived in the river. The specialty of fine-scaled turtles from Tingjiang remained a popular topic of conversation.