Red-White Dan's Tofu

Red-White Dan's Tofu

　　Red-White Dan's Tofu is a specialty of Hongbai Town, Shifang City, Deyang, Sichuan Province. It is considered one of the finest local products in Shifang, with dozens of varieties and flavors now available, receiving high praise from consumers across the country.

　　During the Republic of China period, in a flat valley surrounded by towering peaks deep in Zhangshan Mountain, dozens of households were scattered. On one side was Tianqi Palace, known as Baimiaochang, and on the other was the Sun God Temple, called Hongmiaochang—thus named after the colors of the two temples. The Shiting River and Tongxi River converge here, separated by Yinjiagou, with the two market towns about 200 meters apart. In these mountains, soybeans—known as "May Yellow" and "September Yellow"—were commonly grown, producing plump and full grains. Due to the high mountains and deep valleys, vegetables were scarce. Initially, one family began making and selling tofu manually using a stone mill. At that time, the method was still quite primitive: filtering soy milk was done only with linen cloth; the coagulant used was made by soaking gallnut flowers in boiling water; and to eliminate soy milk foam, leaves from local lacquer trees were used, which proved quite effective. These traditional methods produced tofu that was rather dark in color, resembling the slurry made from black beans, yet it was quite popular among the locals.

　　Back then, during the Xianhua Mountain incense festival that began on the sixth day of the sixth lunar month, streams of people entered the mountain through this area, and Hongbai Temple Market suddenly flourished. As visitors took a break, they would sit at the local teahouses and often order a serving of tender tofu known as “White Ox Rolling in Hot Water,” served with salt and chili powder, paired with two cups of locally brewed wine—offering a unique flavor that helped relieve fatigue. At that time, the quality of Red-White tofu could not yet be called gourmet-level, but it became an affordable and delicious food for pilgrims. Later, villagers also began drying tofu using corn husks, peanut shells, sawdust, and cypress leaves, resulting in a dry, fragrant, spicy snack that became even more popular as a drinking accompaniment. And so, the history of tofu production in Hongbai Temple Market continued. The tofu here is especially fragrant, tender, and snow-white, arguably top-quality—likely thanks to the crystal-clear Guanyin Rock spring and the mineral-rich mountain stream water found here.

　　Over generations, Hongbai Temple Market evolved into Hongbai Township (later town), and what was once a single tofu-making household grew to six. Among them, the tofu workshops run by the Dan and Zhang families became particularly well-known. They typically produced fresh tofu, dried tofu, and five-spice brine tofu. The latter, known as “Nun’s Tofu,” even has an interesting backstory: the tofu maker was a Buddhist nun from Wusheng County, with the dharma name Jiliang. Having learned tofu-making techniques passed down through generations, she mastered a distinctive recipe for five-spice brine tofu. Later, while traveling to Santan Temple in Mianzhu, she had some secular ties with the Dan and Zhang families of Hongbai Township in Shifang and passed on her tofu-making skills to them. The water quality in the Hongbai mountain area is particularly clear and refreshing—an ideal condition for tofu production—allowing the techniques she brought from her hometown to take root and flourish in Hongbai.

　　According to the tofu workshop owners, Red-White tofu is coagulated purely with brine, and the method has its subtleties: the fresh tofu may look firm on the outside but is tender inside; when used in tofu dishes, it is first blanched to remove any rawness, ensuring it never becomes grainy. That is, tofu cubes remain distinct in shape without breaking apart or becoming tough, thus offering a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture, even surpassing the taste of pig brain—a quality that has earned widespread praise from diners. Whether served in spicy hot pot, clear broth, or with white oil, each preparation highlights its unique charm. As for dried tofu, it comes in original and five-spice flavors, with a production process that emphasizes cleanliness and hygiene. The method involves packing the semi-finished tofu—obtained after boiling, filtering, and coagulating the soy milk—into wooden trays, then pressing them with a hydraulic jack with just the right amount of pressure. For drying, a stove burning local smokeless coal is used, covered with an iron plate and wire mesh to prevent direct scorching. Before baking, refined salt is applied to season the surface. Dried red chili peppers from Hanyuan add fragrance, and for those intended to become “Five-Spice Dried Tofu,” an additional brining and boiling step is performed.

　　Thanks to strict adherence to quality standards throughout processes such as grinding, boiling, filtering, coagulating, pressing, baking, and brining—along with the use of family-secret methods—the resulting fresh and dried tofu maintain the signature flavor of Red-White tofu, surpassing similar products from other regions. Demand is so high that supply can barely keep up, especially for dried tofu, which often requires advance booking or waiting in line. Currently, Red-White tofu is sold as far as Chengdu-Chongqing, Heilongjiang, Liaoning, and Shenzhen, earning widespread acclaim.

　　Red-White tofu has always used brine for coagulation. Its makers explain: according to Li Shizhen, “soybeans are comparable to lamb,” hence the soy milk is high in protein, and using brine enhances digestion and appetite. Unlike gypsum-coagulated tofu, which is cooling in nature and can harm the spleen and stomach if consumed long-term, brine is a better choice—this reasoning holds merit. Their products are sold to the Chengdu Railway Sanatorium and the vast area around the Qingbaijiang Chuanhua Factory, all of which have been well received, greatly stimulating the appetite. It is especially suitable for the elderly, the infirm, or convalescing patients who should limit their intake of heavily salted foods.

　　Red-White tofu is truly one of Shifang’s finest products, with over ten potential new varieties yet to be developed—it has broad prospects ahead. “Skillful hands stir the nectar; all praise it as surpassing mutton. The fine taste of Zhangshan lives on in Red-White; serve it in a jade bowl for all to savor.”