Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi

Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi

　　"Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi," also commonly called "Two Slices," has always been regarded by the people of Hengxian as the "county dish." It symbolizes the highest level of the county's cooking techniques and food culture, as well as the most prestigious way to entertain guests. In Nanning and throughout the entire Lingnan area, those who know Hengxian often associate the dish so closely with the place that they refer to Hengxian as raw fish and raw fish as Hengxian. The reason why Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi is so famous and delicious is closely related to its unique preparation methods and the fine selection of ingredients. The making of Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi is incredibly skillful and astounding. A fish just over a foot long appears as if it’s about to fly away. Removing its scales, skin, and bones is done masterfully and seamlessly. The accompanying ingredients are a vibrant and magnificent array. Shreds of ginger, scallions, garlic, papaya, radish, and lemon are all carefully and precisely prepared.

　　　　The traditional custom of "preparing and eating raw fish" in Hengxian, as vividly and authentically depicted in the "Hengsan Records" from the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, the legendary tale of the hermit Dong Jing—who lived in seclusion in Hengxian during the reign of Emperor Yuan of Jin and once encountered immortals and tasted raw fish—the accounts from modern Japanese friends and patriotic figures from Taiwan who have praised Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi, all reflect the long history, profound cultural heritage, and rich connotations of this traditional dietary practice.

　　History

　　Eating raw fish has been a tradition in Hengxian since ancient times. According to the "Hengzhou Records" from the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, the earliest people to eat raw fish were the ancient inhabitants of the Yu River—known as the Dan people—who lived along its banks thousands of years ago. There is a fantastical folk legend that during the time of Emperor Yuan of Jin, the hermit Dong Jing went to Hengzhou and lived in seclusion on Denggao Ridge. One day, Dong Jing took a brother and sister from the Dan people out on a boat to admire the moon when suddenly, immortals arrived in a heavenly boat. Dong Jing invited them to dine, but the immortals refused cooked food and left without saying goodbye. The Dan siblings went into the mountains to investigate and encountered the immortals in a cave, where they were treated to divine wine and raw fish slices. Later, the siblings followed the immortals’ instructions and prepared the dish themselves. From then on, Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi gained great fame and has been passed down to this day. "Of all the delicacies in the world, few can rival Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi in taste and appearance. Whether in the homes of common folk or the banquet tables of the wealthy, it is considered a rare delicacy..." Raw fish is undoubtedly the top dish of Hengxian and can be called the "county dish." Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi is a true reflection of the life of ancient fishermen on the Yu River and a product of the riverine economy. The Yu River is a major water system in Hengxian, with clear and fast-flowing waters. The fish from this river have well-developed tail muscles and excellent texture. Among them, the green bamboo fish from the Yu River is considered the finest.

　　　　Mei Yaochen, a renowned poet of the Northern Song Dynasty, was particularly fond of eating raw fish. He even kept a female expert in slicing raw fish (known as a "zhuo kuai" or raw fish slicer) in his home. In his poem "Setting Out Raw Fish for Guests," he wrote: "My young wife sharpens her precious knife, scaling and finning the fish as if it would take flight. Flakes of cloud-like meat fall onto the plate, and grains of frost-like seasoning form delicate threads." This verse depicts the exquisite craftsmanship, color, aroma, taste, and appearance of raw fish preparation, leaving readers amazed.

　　　　It is said that at least 500 years ago, raw fish was already the "showcase dish" of Hengxian banquets. Originally a necessity for grassroots fishermen, it became a "showcase dish" and eventually a delicacy served to high-ranking officials in the imperial court. Zhou Mengzhong, a successful candidate in the imperial examination during the Ming Dynasty, served as the Deputy Education Commissioner of Guangxi in the first year of the Hongzhi reign (1488). His seven-character regulated verse "Ascending the Chunyaoting Pavilion" vividly describes the deep cultural roots and historical background of Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi: "Observing the customs of the Five Prefectures for many years, every visit to Nanning brings clarity. Countless green trees line the suburbs, and mulberry and hemp fields stretch to the plains. Spooning up long-grain rice like jade pearls, slicing catfish into silvery threads. The scenery here is truly splendid, so why worry about a lack of talent?" It is also said that Zhou was the one who coined the term "cross-cut" for raw fish.

　　　　Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi originally emerged as a practical solution for fishermen living on the Yu River in ancient Hengxian. With no oil, salt, soy sauce, or vinegar, they had no choice but to eat it raw. Unexpectedly, this "grassroots" method born out of fishermen’s hardships gradually evolved, through the passage of time, into a widely renowned traditional delicacy. Last year, the Nanning Municipal Government included "Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi" in the second batch of Nanning’s Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection List.

　　Features

　　You may see raw fish dishes all over the world, but none can rival Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi. Why? It’s all thanks to the meticulous attention given to six key aspects: variety, firmness, whiteness, thinness, thickness (of ingredients), and freshness.

　　Variety

　　　　Choosing the right type of fish is crucial for making good raw fish. Species such as green bamboo fish, osmanthus fish, grass carp, carp, and tilapia can all be used, but the best is the thick-fleshed, low-bone green bamboo fish.

　　Firmness

　　　　Firmness refers to the texture of the fish flesh—it needs to be solid and chewy. The muscle quality of the fish is critical to the overall feel of the sashimi. Firm flesh provides a juicy mouthfeel that becomes more flavorful the more you chew. If the fish is weak and mushy, like worn-out cotton, the chewing experience is lost, and the taste becomes dull. Most raw fish dishes use pond-raised fish, which lack vitality and have poor texture. Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi, however, uses only live wild fish from the Yu River. As the main waterway in Hengxian, the Yu River has fast, turbulent currents, which produce fish with particularly well-developed tail muscles and an excellent texture. Thus, the green bamboo fish from the Yu River is naturally the best choice.

　　　　Considering the above two factors, the green bamboo fish from the Yu River is undoubtedly the crown jewel among raw fish options.

　　Whiteness

　　　　Whiteness means the fish flesh should be snow-white and translucent, with every detail of its texture clearly visible. To achieve this whiteness, all the blood must be drained. The best method is to cut the gills and let the fish bleed in water without dying immediately. After a few minutes, when all the blood is gone, the fish dies, and the flesh becomes snow-white and lustrous. Alternatively, cutting the tail to let the blood drip out works, but the flesh won’t be as white as with the gill-cutting method.

　　Thinness

　　　　Thinness refers to how thinly the fish slices are cut—they should be as thin as cicada wings to better absorb flavors. To achieve thin slices, an extremely sharp knife is essential. Press the fish flesh with your left thumb and index finger, hold the knife in your right hand, and angle the blade at 45 degrees to the flesh, with the cutting edge facing the cutting board. Aim carefully and make a diagonal slice—the flesh should slide off like a feather. When unfolded, the slice should be so thin you can see writing through it—this is top quality. If you can’t see writing, it’s lower quality. When laid on a plate, the slices should look like dancing butterflies or blooming flowers, evoking imagination and offering remarkable visual appeal.

　　Thickness (of Ingredients)

　　　　The variety of seasonings must be rich and bold to mask any fishy taste and bring out the freshness and deliciousness of the raw fish. Essential basic ingredients include chopped scallions, ginger, garlic, pickled vegetables, fish sauce, chili oil, salt, soy sauce, and vinegar. Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi takes it further by adding over twenty unique local ingredients such as diced papaya, lemon, lemon leaves, onions, spicy radish roots, and taro shreds, along with more than thirty fresh condiments including locally produced peanut oil, light soy sauce, and pepper. These are combined to enhance the flavor of the fish slices. Grab a handful of these fresh seasonings, wrap a slice of raw fish with them, and pop it into your mouth. The explosion of spicy, sour, fresh, and aromatic flavors will overwhelm your senses, stimulate your taste buds, and instantly get your mouth watering. Your teeth will instinctively start chewing vigorously. As your tongue and teeth dance around, mixing everything together, the sweetness of the fish and the intensity of the seasonings gradually come together. The result is a burst of rich flavors filling your mouth, with lingering aromas on your palate and aftertaste that stays with you for days. You’ll find yourself marveling that such a dish must be heaven-sent, rarely experienced in the mortal world.

　　Artistry

　　The art of Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi lies in its preparation.

　　　　What makes Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi unique is its selection of ingredients, knife skills, and plating. First, the fish used must be wild river species from the Yu River, such as grass carp, flower carp, mud carp, and green bamboo fish—pond-raised fish are not preferred. The ingredients must also be fresh, lively, clean, and unpolluted. Among these, the green bamboo fish is most commonly chosen for its crispy skin, firm flesh, delicate texture, and good elasticity. There’s a saying, "A skilled brush brings flowers to life." Watching Le Yongcui prepare the fish slices is a delight, as she seems to possess the magical skill of "flying knife flower creation." A lively river fish is first stunned with the back of a knife, then its gills, tail, and scales are removed. Next, the fish is hung head-up and tail-down on an iron hook for 8 to 10 minutes—a crucial step where the fish is stunned but still alive, allowing all the blood to be drained. Then comes the process of removing the flesh and skin. The fish is placed on a dry, flat cutting board, and the flesh is sliced from both sides along the spine, being careful not to break the belly as internal organs could contaminate the flesh. Removing the skin is also delicate—usually, a small incision is made at the tail, and then the skin is pulled off in one go. After deboning and skinning, the flesh is wrapped in clean gauze for several minutes to absorb any remaining moisture or blood, resulting in crystal-clear flesh.

　　　　The key to making raw fish lies in the knife skills. Large pieces of fish flesh are placed on the cutting board, and the knife is used to slice off ultra-thin pieces. Between cuts, a second slice is made while the first is still attached. The second cut severs the slice, creating two connected pieces that, when opened, resemble butterfly wings. The thinner the slices, the more skill the chef demonstrates. Expertly made slices are neat, smooth, and aesthetically pleasing. Once sliced, the pieces are arranged on a dry plate, looking like ice-carved jade butterflies ready to take flight. By local standards, only chefs who can uniformly slice the fish into pieces about 3 millimeters thick and weighing between 8 to 10 grams are considered true masters, qualified to open shops and teach apprentices.

　　Ingredient Pairing Is Meticulously Prepared

　　　　In addition to precise knife skills, Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi is also famous for its diverse and carefully selected accompaniments. There are over 20 types of ingredients, including heartleaf houttuynia, lemon, perilla leaves, mint leaves, seaweed, shredded ginger, shredded carrot, sour orange, garlic, and sour ginger. When enjoying raw fish in Hengxian, you might not know where to start because the combination of various fish slices and a colorful array of accompaniments is like a piece of art—so beautiful it’s a treat just to look at, let alone eat. The accompaniments are shredded as finely as hair, with each strand uniform in size. These are placed in round or diamond-shaped plates specially designed for raw fish. The outer part of the plate has triangular sections, while the center is round. The colorful arrangement of ingredients is so appealing it’s hard to take the first bite. The beautiful presentation is another hallmark of Hengxian Raw Fish Sashimi. The raw fish slices are usually served on white porcelain plates, often in exquisite shapes like circles, diamonds, boats, or fans, highlighting the fish’s crystal-clear transparency, clear texture, and distinct layers.

　　　　Additionally, a good dipping sauce is essential for the perfect raw fish experience. It is typically made with peanut oil, light soy sauce, and pepper. Peanut oil adds smoothness, light soy sauce enhances the flavor, and pepper balances the cool nature of the raw fish to warm the stomach. These ingredients serve not only as garnishes but also help remove fishiness, enhance freshness, and stimulate the appetite.