Stuffed and Braised Pig's Trotters

Stuffed and Braised Pig's Trotters

　　Stuffed and Braised Pig's Trotters

　　Having been around for over a hundred years, they are especially well-made by the time-honored brand Dexinzhai. Among Foshan’s variety of dishes, this one stands out because its flavor is closer to that of northern China, which also makes it more appealing to outsiders. It is recommended that, similar to how Zhaoqing Glutinous Rice Dumplings are promoted, more efforts be made to develop this dish, as there is believed to be considerable potential.

　　In Foshan, there are two types of stuffed and braised pig's trotters: one is made by stuffing and braising an entire pig’s foreleg, while the other involves skinning a pig’s hind leg, removing the tendons and bones, then wrapping it with lean pork and fat pork layered inside the skin before stewing. The resulting dish is slow-cooked in a broth. The former requires fewer preparation steps, while the latter involves more work — but both are favored by the people of Foshan. Because the latter is tied up with water plants during the braising process, it is called "Zha Ti" (Braised Tied Trotter).

　　In the past, most Foshan charcuterie shops sold this dish, but for the best taste and refined preparation, "Dexinzhai" stood out as the leader. Established during the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong era (1736–1795), the shop has a history of two hundred years. Its original location was at Foshan Zhengbu, now the entrance of Yong’an Road. It originally operated as a charcuterie business (later, when stuffed and braised pig's trotters became popular, a dedicated counter was set up inside the shop to sell them). The owner was quite ingenious and, in order to compete with other businesses, creatively invented the "stuffed and braised pig's trotters" dish.

　　Its preparation involves four main aspects: ingredient selection, braising, seasoning, and heat control. Ingredient Selection: tender pig’s feet and trotters are chosen, with fat taken from the pig’s spine (for its tenderness without greasiness), and lean meat selected without sinews or membranes. Braising: first, the pig’s feet and trotters are scraped clean and skinned. If making tied trotters, the tendons and bones are also removed. Then they are placed in a pot and slow-braised until they are about 80–90% cooked. They are then removed and pricked with needles (the pricking is done on the outside of the skin to let the gelatin seep out, making the texture more tender). After pricking, they go back into the pot for further braising, then are taken out and cooled in cold water. The pig fat is cured with fine sugar or salt, while the lean meat is blanched in oil and treated with cooking wine and sugar. Once all ingredients are prepared, the meats are sliced into thin strips, alternating fat and lean, and wrapped inside the skin, which is then tied with water plants and soaked in a marinade. The marinade is made with various seasonings such as Sichuan peppercorn and star anise. In the past, frog (a type of amphibian called "Hakou") was also added to enhance the flavor of the broth. This results in a product that is “tender yet refreshing, rich but not greasy, and deliciously fragrant.”

　　Legend has it that during the Qing Dynasty, a provincial governor visited Foshan late one night and ordered his attendants to prepare some food for a late-night meal. However, all the restaurants were closed, so the attendants had no choice but to knock on the door of Dexinzhai to buy stuffed and braised pig's trotters. The governor found them delicious and highly praised them. He later sent people to Foshan many times to purchase them and widely recommended them. As a result, the reputation of Dexinzhai’s stuffed and braised pig's trotters spread far and wide. Not only did locals love to buy and eat them, but visitors also made it a point to try them, with many purchasing some to take home or give as gifts. At its peak, Dexinzhai’s product was sold all over Guangdong Province as well as in Hong Kong and Macau, with daily sales reaching hundreds of jars, often selling out. In terms of seasoning, the shop’s chefs were also very particular. They had a dedicated counter where chefs stood by, with finished products placed in basins and marinated in the broth. Customers could buy however much they wanted, and the chefs would slice accordingly. For out-of-town customers, the chefs would ask where they were going, how long the journey was, and when they planned to eat the dish, then adjust the seasoning accordingly — ensuring the taste was perfect upon consumption. Later, some unscrupulous merchants tried to pass off imitation products to steal Dexinzhai’s business by opening another charcuterie shop nearby, also selling stuffed and braised pig's trotters, and even naming it "Lao Dexinzhai" (Old Dexinzhai). They thought adding the word "Lao" (Old) would attract customers, but fake goods are still fake — their trick didn’t fool anyone. This despicable act only earned them scorn.

　　After the liberation, the two shops merged and were renamed "Xin Dexin" (New Dexin), with the new location set at Shengping Road, its current address. After the public-private partnership transition, it became a state-owned store. Its sales consistently ranked first in the city’s industry. Recently, to preserve the reputation of Foshan’s famous local specialty, the original and historic brand name — Dexinzhai — was restored. However, this widely renowned and beloved delicacy had been out of production for quite some time due to various reasons. Recently, the city’s food company, in order to implement the Party Central Committee’s directive to “shift the focus of work to economic development” and to enrich people’s lives, mobilized Dexinzhai’s employees to resume production of this traditional and iconic product. In the near future, this long-missed and famous delicacy will once again be available to the public.