Mianyang Vinegar Chicken

Mianyang Vinegar Chicken

　　“Oh chicken, chicken, don’t blame me, you’re just a dish in this world of the living.” For thousands of years, chicken has been a delicious delicacy on people’s dining tables.

　　 Back then, rural families raised a few or even a dozen chickens, but most were layers. During spring and autumn, if a chicken died from an epidemic, in those times of material scarcity, people would reluctantly cook and eat it. In folk terms, “chicken plague” was the common name for avian diseases. In the scientifically underdeveloped past, when chicken plague was severe in a village, some families would lose their entire flock to the disease—it was truly heartbreaking.

　　 Chicken plague was extremely contagious. Chickens more susceptible to it were usually younger ones with weaker immune systems; older chickens, having developed some resistance, suffered fewer fatalities during outbreaks.

　　 Chickens that died from the plague often perished overnight in their coops. When discovered the next day, they were already stiff. People would pluck the feathers, remove the head and internal organs, then marinate the carcass for one or two hours before boiling it in a pot. Even after boiling for half a day, the meat remained tough, so it was typically cooked until just seven-tenths done before further preparation. Eating plague-stricken chicken wasn’t about indulgence—rather, due to limited meat consumption throughout the year, and the widespread belief that the smoking and cooking process would kill pathogens, preventing diseases like acute or chronic dysentery, people felt it was safe enough to eat.

　　 The meat of plague-killed chickens was usually cooked at night, discovered stiff by morning. After plucking, beheading, and gutting, the chicken was marinated for one or two hours, then boiled in water. But even after half a day, the meat wouldn’t soften, so it was cooked until just seven-tenths done before further processing. Eating these chickens wasn’t because people were particularly gluttonous. Chicken plague, plainly speaking, was deadly—but people believed that the thorough cooking process, including smoking, would eliminate germs and prevent illness. Hence, vinegar chicken came to be.

　　“Chicken in eight pieces” refers to the traditional way of butchering a chicken into exactly eight parts. The boiled, dead chicken was chopped up, then stir-fried in hot oil. A few drops of liquor, some chili paste, five-spice powder, garlic, and a bit of water were added until the meat became completely tender. Finally, plenty of aged vinegar was poured in—“just as pickled cucumbers need vinegar,” the more vinegar, the better. The chicken turned out tangy and spicy. People knew that vinegar not only had strong antibacterial properties but also aided digestion, which gave rise to what we now call “vinegar chicken.”

　　 In those days, rural families raised only native chickens, which took a whole year to mature, whereas “foreign chickens” (also called “tai chickens”) only needed three months. In the past, chickens were mostly free-range, rarely penned. As for the difference between native and foreign chickens: native chicken meat was tender and fragrant, and native eggs fetched higher prices, offered greater nutritional value, and had a lighter, purer taste. In contrast, the meat and eggs of foreign chickens were far inferior.

　　 I grew up in the countryside, and it’s fair to say I was raised on native chicken eggs. During holidays, there was always an abundance of eggs—soft-boiled, shell-on, scrambled, fried, egg-fried rice, egg pancakes, salted eggs, egg soup… you name it. My parents raised eight of us children and kept a flock of chickens. What I’ll never forget is the most anticipated dish at every family reunion dinner: my mother’s homemade vinegar chicken.

　　 Rural families usually raised one or two caponized roosters for the New Year. As a naive child, I only knew the vinegar chicken was delicious, unaware of the hardships of life or my parents’ toil. My father would always say he didn’t particularly like vinegar chicken—he loved his children and the flock of chickens we kept. On New Year’s Eve, after a few sips of liquor, his eyes would well up with tears, filled with sorrow and worry about the year ahead. Back then, I didn’t understand why, nor did I want to dwell on it. But I knew my father carried secrets no one in the family could ease, and the weight of providing for us all.

　　 Decades have passed, yet the rich, mellow flavor of hometown vinegar chicken still holds a sacred place in my heart, nurturing the memories of my childhood.

　　 Mianyang Vinegar Chicken is a culinary masterpiece. Even during the collective era, when resources like firewood, rice, oil, and salt were scarce, every rural banquet included a serving of vinegar chicken. In more prosperous times, no one eats plague-stricken chickens anymore. With veterinary care and disease prevention, chicken plague has disappeared. Food is abundant, more chickens are raised, and vinegar chicken is no longer a luxury for ordinary folks. Today, in rural areas, every festival sees families preparing braised pots: pork, pig trotters, pork skin, intestines, tofu products, kelp, lotus root, and chicken—all braised together. Among these delicacies, the fragrant vinegar chicken remains the favorite.

　　 When people grew tired of rich, fatty meats, they turned to game—such as wild rabbits, pheasants, and spotted doves. For those too lazy to cook, they headed to vinegar chicken restaurants. In the 1980s and 1990s, some of the more famous vinegar chicken eateries in Mianyang included the Tourist Restaurant on Xinlong Street, the Liuyang Restaurant, the Yanshan Restaurant, Chef Yang’s Restaurant in Xiashi, and Jiang Wanhe’s Restaurant in Maochang—all using authentic native chickens.

　　 Native chickens, also called domestic or barnyard chickens, are local breeds. Roosters have large, bright red combs, while hens have very small ones. Their meat and eggs are of high quality and rich in nutrients, typically raised free-range. Native chickens lay eggs and thrive in the earth, grow old in the soil, and for farmers, they are like a “living bank.”

　　 Vinegar chicken is a beloved preserved delicacy among the people of Mianyang. Thanks to its meticulous preparation and use of various seasonings, it boasts a strong vinegar aroma when served, hence the name “vinegar chicken,” also known as “vinegar-spicy chicken.” It has a “tangy kick” and “spicy zing.” Mianyang vinegar chicken is also known for its crispy skin and tender meat, vibrant color, rich flavor, and non-greasy taste, making it a perfect dish to serve guests during festivals.

　　 Ingredients for the braised pot include five-spice powder, star anise, cinnamon, bay leaves, salt, and soy sauce. When preparing the braised pot, these seasonings are usually wrapped in cheesecloth and placed in the pot. For Sanfutantang vinegar chicken, of course, chicken and vinegar are essential. The first step in making vinegar chicken is selecting the right chicken: chickens are categorized by age—those from the current year or the second year—with younger chickens being more tender. It’s better to use aged vinegar or white vinegar. The general method for making vinegar chicken is as follows:

　　 First, clean the chicken and place the whole bird in the braised pot until it’s about 60–70% cooked, then remove it. Chop the chicken into pieces and stir-fry them in oil along with seasonings: ginger, chili, and soy sauce. Next, add a measured amount of cooking wine, and optionally MSG, chicken essence, or pepper. Pour in water, cover the pot, and simmer until the liquid evaporates. Finally, add chopped scallions and vinegar. Now, the fragrant, sour, and spicy Mianyang vinegar chicken is ready to be served.

　　 Mianyang vinegar chicken is a famous dish from Xiantao, known and loved by everyone, both in the city and countryside. There’s even a local saying: “Mianyang vinegar chicken and rice wine—even the gods would linger for the aroma.”

　　 Over a lifetime, I’ve eaten many kinds of chicken dishes: roast chicken, boiled chicken, big-plate chicken… But when I look back, nothing beats the flavor of hometown vinegar chicken.

　　 (August 2012, Zhang Caifu, Changping)