Salted and Oiled Peas

Salted and Oiled Peas

　　In the countryside, almost every household grows peas. However, they’re rarely planted alone but are usually intercropped with wheat, a practice known as “ga mai lan.” The peas and wheat are harvested together with a single sickle, causing no delay in the farming schedule. The refreshing fragrance of peas in the fields, the subtle scent of grass, and the greenish aroma of wheat drift along the rows of wheat. Wave after wave, these scents wash over the willow branches in spring, gradually permeating the village and silently entering people’s noses and lungs...

　　 People in the Jianghan Plain have a special fondness for peas, and for me, who grew up in Mianyang, this affection is especially profound. Peas are a common food item—rich in protein and packed with various vitamins, making them highly nutritious. They are convenient to carry and can be stuffed in pockets to snack on while on the go. They also make a great side dish at the table, pair well with alcohol, and are particularly delightful with congee for breakfast. There are many ways to prepare peas: you can stir-fry them dry like popcorn using coarse sand—remember how we used to bring raw peas to school and roast them in fire pots? The classrooms would echo with popping sounds and the smell of scorched peas. There was even a nursery rhyme about it: “One two three, three two one, the teacher wants to eat my peas. The teacher says I do well in school, I say the teacher is just a foodie.” Salted and oiled peas can also be simmered with oil and salt—a method called “qu” (pronounced 'qu', fourth tone) peas, or simply salted and oiled peas. They can also be slow-cooked in jars, called stewed peas. Moreover, tender, uncooked peas—known as ba guo—can be shelled and eaten raw. But my favorite remains the salted and oiled peas. What makes them unique is their firm texture and the aroma from roasting. Biting into a salted and oiled pea gives you a crisp, fragrant sensation on your tongue, making it hard to stop at just one. The skins are soft yet chewy, and the garlic inside has a particularly distinctive flavor. Whenever I eat these peas, I always pick out the garlic cloves from the bowl to enjoy.

　　 Making salted and oiled peas is quite simple. The main ingredients, naturally, are oil and salt, but garlic is essential too, along with a moderate amount of chili, ginger, and a splash of vinegar if you like. Stir-frying salted and oiled peas is actually my specialty. Back in the days when food was scarce, during high school, I used to take a jar of these peas to school and have them last the whole week—all made by myself since adults didn’t have time to bother with that. 1. Thoroughly clean the peas, especially removing any dirt. 2. Heat the pan and dry-roast the peas in it. 3. Keep stirring continuously, gradually reducing the heat until some peas turn slightly burnt, scorched, and yellowish. Then take them out and soak them in cold water—this step is also called “qu,” which allows the peas to swell, soften, and expand. Drain them afterward, which also serves to rinse the peas. 4. When the oil is smoking hot, add a little water and salt, bring it to a boil, then put in the drained peas. Stir-fry them with a spatula and season to taste. Remember to add plenty of salt—go heavy on it. The peas won’t turn out too salty, just like the saying goes, “Too much salt doesn’t spoil the sauce.”

　　 One thing to watch out for when making this dish: don’t let the peas burn, and don’t undercook them either, or they’ll taste raw and gassy. Timing and heat control are crucial. Also, when seasoning the peas, avoid splashing water into the pan—it might crack it.

　　 The salted and oiled peas from Mianyang are very crispy and aromatic...