Anhui Cuisine

Anhui Cuisine

Anhui cuisine is an intangible cultural heritage of Anhui Province.

　　Anhui cuisine is one of China’s eight major culinary traditions. It refers specifically to Huizhou cuisine and should not be equated with Anhui cuisine as a whole. Hailing from Huizhou, Anhui cuisine is deeply rooted in the unique geographical environment that the region provides. Historically, Huizhou encompassed present-day Huangshan City and Jixi County in Anhui Province, as well as Wuyuan County in Jiangxi Province. Due to its location at the intersection of two climate zones, Huizhou enjoys abundant rainfall and a moderate climate, which contribute to especially rich local produce. The Huangshan Mountains alone boast over 1,470 plant species, many of which are edible. The mountainous terrain is home to a diverse array of wildlife, further enriching the ingredients available. Game and wild delicacies form the distinctive backbone of Anhui cuisine’s main and auxiliary ingredients. Signature dishes include “Stewed Turtle with Ham,” “Braised Raccoon Dog in Soy Sauce,” “Marinated Mandarin Fish,” “Braised Pigeon from Huangshan,” and hundreds of others.

　　Anhui cuisine originates from Huizhou and owes its development to the region’s distinctive geography. Located at the intersection of two climate zones, Huizhou receives abundant rainfall and enjoys a mild climate, resulting in especially bountiful natural resources. The Huangshan Mountains host over 1,470 plant species, many of which are edible. The mountainous terrain shelters a wide variety of wildlife, further enriching the local produce. Game and wild delicacies form the unique foundation of Anhui cuisine’s key ingredients and flavorings—such as flower mushrooms, button mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, shiitake mushrooms, white wood ear fungus, black wood ear fungus, stone ear fungus, high-mountain stone ear fungus, bracken, daylily, golden needle vegetable, and water celery—all of which were traditionally foraged in the wild. There are as many as seventeen varieties of bamboo shoots, each differing in species, preparation method, cutting style, and seasoning. A wealth of edible wild greens, as well as various flowers, stems, and stalks, feature prominently in Anhui dishes. As for tofu, there are numerous types such as fresh tofu, hairy tofu, stinky tofu, Guanyin tofu, Laba tofu, and acorn tofu. Regarding game, Huizhou is home to 374 species of wild animals (excluding insects), including 86 species of mammals, 210 species of birds, 52 species of reptiles, and 26 species of amphibians. Creatures such as wild rabbits, pheasants, yellow muntjacs, black muntjacs, pangolins, giant salamanders, rock partridges, raccoons, otters, and even bears, leopards, and “heavenly horses” (possibly deer or other ungulates) were once part of the local bounty. The region’s fish diversity is also remarkable. The golden fish and other rare species native to Huangshan were particularly prized. There was even once said to be a type of “winged fish” capable of leaping onto trees—delicacies all celebrated for their exceptional taste. Many of these rare animals and birds are now under national protection, though some continue to appear on menus, such as farmed pheasants, rabbits, and black-bone chickens, as well as duck-like but distinct birds—all retaining a strong wild flavor.   Thanks to the advanced state of traditional medicine in Huizhou, during the Ming and Qing dynasties more than 700 physicians produced over 600 medical texts. Medicinal diets aimed at improving health and vitality were integrated early on into Anhui cuisine. Examples include “Braised Black-Bone Chicken with Goji Berries,” “Braised Lily Bulbs with Rock Sugar,” “Stir-Fried Lean Pork with Perilla,” and “Dry-Fried Ginkgo Nuts.”

　　 The Development of Anhui Cuisine

　　　　The golden age of Anhui cuisine coincided with the period when Huizhou merchants dominated trade across China. To a significant extent, Huizhou merchants contributed enormously to the spread and development of their regional cuisine.   There are several theories about how Anhui cuisine spread and evolved:   One theory suggests that when Huizhou merchants conducted business, entertained clients, or gathered with friends, they would often serve a table of hometown dishes as a gesture of respect toward their honored guests. Because the ingredients and characteristics of Anhui cuisine were so unique and representative, the style began to trend toward an emphasis on quality and diversification.   Another theory posits that since Huizhou merchants were spread across the country but remained rooted in Huizhou—with tastes that remained loyal to their hometown—demand naturally gave rise to supply. Consequently, Huizhou restaurants began to emerge throughout the nation, which in turn promoted the development of a more systematic Anhui cuisine framework.   At one point, Anhui cuisine became a popular mainstream choice. There are even accounts suggesting it briefly claimed the top spot among China’s eight major cuisines. However, as the influence of Huizhou merchants declined, both the quality and popularity of Anhui cuisine waned. Gradually, it faded from memory—or became generalized (i.e., equated with all of Anhui cuisine). In truth, this was often a self-serving commercial move by others seeking to leverage the inherent brand strength of Anhui cuisine for their own gain, which did not benefit the cuisine’s authentic development.

　　 Characteristics

　　　　The cooking techniques of Anhui cuisine—including knife skills, heat control, and overall methodology—are defined by a longstanding tradition of emphasizing fire control. Its expertise in braising, stewing, smoking, and steaming is especially distinctive. The use of different heat management methods for various dishes is a key indicator of a chef’s skill level and a fundamental element in forming Anhui cuisine’s signature textures and flavors: crispy, tender, fragrant, and fresh. Anhui cuisine employs around 20 major cooking techniques comprising over 50 variations. Among them, the most representative methods are velveting, clear stewing, and raw smoking.

　　 The Making of Anhui Cuisine

　　　　In the past, red-cooking was a dominant technique in Anhui cuisine, and the “red” color came primarily from the use of soy sauce. The soy sauce used in Huizhou was made from soybeans and retained its natural color. Cooking oil was typically homemade rapeseed oil, and wood was widely used as fuel: dishes might be simmered over charcoal, seared quickly with firewood, or gently cooked with larger wood chunks—each method carefully considered. Traditional emphases on heavy oil, deep color, and precise heat control were made possible by Huizhou’s unique environmental conditions.   As Anhui cuisine spread across China, it retained its signature traits: emphasis on color (for visual appeal), heavy oil (for flavor enhancement), and precise heat control (for texture refinement)—such as achieving tenderness or firmness, hardness or softness, density or looseness. Using ham as a seasoning is a long-standing tradition in Anhui cuisine. In fact, making ham was once a common household skill in the region. Food connoisseurs hold Huizhou ham in high regard. Yet few may know that “the best Jinhua ham comes from Dongyang, and the best Dongyang ham comes from Huizhou.” This area was historically part of or adjacent to Huizhou and among the first regions reached by Huizhou merchants. The poet Li Bai once wrote in Jinhua: “I’ve heard of Jinhua Ferry, stretching east to Five Hundred Shoals. One day we’ll join hands, and row into the Xin’an (i.e., Huizhou) River.” As early as the Tang Dynasty, people associated Jinhua with Huizhou due to their connected waterways—and interactions grew ever more frequent afterward.