Tunxi Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish

Tunxi Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish

　　　"Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish," originally called "Stinky Mandarin Fish," is a traditional famous dish from Huizhou. For hundreds of years, through the careful refinement by generations of chefs, the traditional cooking method has been updated and elevated, allowing this beloved delicacy to endure and maintain its widespread acclaim. Tourists from both China and abroad visiting Huangshan and Tunxi consider trying "Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish" a must-do experience.

　　About 300 years ago, merchants along the Yangtze River would transport mandarin fish caught in the river to cities such as Huangshan, Tunxi, and She County for sale before winter each year. Due to the poor transportation conditions, it took seven to eight days to reach their destination. To prevent the fish from spoiling during transit, the merchants layered the fish with salt and turned them over daily. By the time they arrived in Tunxi and other places, not only had the fish not gone bad, but they also emitted a unique “pungent smell.” Once cooked, the aroma and flavor were even richer than that of fresh mandarin fish. Over time, it became a prized dish on the dining tables of Tunxi, Huangshan, and surrounding areas.

　　The region along the Huai River experiences distinct seasons and boasts abundant local produce. In cooking, techniques such as braising, deep-frying, and marinating are commonly used. Coriander is often added for color, while ginger and chili peppers enhance the flavor. There’s a saying: “A bit of salt adds three parts flavor; a touch of chili brings out the full taste.” During fishing seasons, fishermen in this area would preserve freshly caught fish by salting them on their boats, a method commonly known as “sun-dried salted fish.” The resulting product shares a remarkably similar character with Huizhou’s “Stinky Mandarin Fish.”

　　Inspired by this, ten years ago I began experimenting earnestly—taking the salting technique of the Huai River’s “sun-dried salted fish,” inheriting the traditional method of Huizhou’s “Stinky Mandarin Fish,” and integrating the Huai-style use of chili for flavor. In doing so, I brought the traditional delicacy of "Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish" to modern dining tables.

　　The specific method is as follows: rub the mandarin fish with salt and Shaoxing wine until well-coated, then add scallions and ginger for marination. Wrap the fish tightly in plastic wrap and place it in a refrigerator set between 0°C and 1°C (leave it for 1–2 days in summer, 3–5 days in spring and autumn, or 7–8 days in winter for best results). Remove the fish, rinse lightly, and pan-fry it. When cooking, add ingredients such as bamboo slices, ham, scallions, ginger, dried red chilies, and garlic cloves.

　　I believe that any dish can remain “authentic” as long as it preserves its traditional style and essence, while being adapted to local tastes without losing its core identity. Take, for example, "Zhiwei Parking Meilong Town"—though located in Shanghai, it stays true to Sichuan cuisine’s roots while drawing inspiration from Shanghai’s culinary style. By learning from each other, it has taken firm root and thrived in the bustling metropolis, rightfully earning the title of an “authentic” Sichuan restaurant.

　　Happily, my version of "Preserved Fresh Mandarin Fish" has been well-received by diners from all walks of life.