Xiaoshui Lake

Xiaoshui Lake

In the southern part of Hunan Province, nestled between the Lingqi and Daochen basins bordering Guangdong and Guangxi, stand two majestic mountains—Yangming Mountain and Zijin Mountain. Winding between them is a mighty river that surges into the Xiang River. This is the Xiaoshui River. Legend has it that Emperor Shun traveled southward along this river, bestowing kindness and virtue everywhere, leaving behind countless moving tales. Later, after Emperor Shun passed away at Jiuyi Mountain, the people, in honor of his virtuous rule, also named this river the Shunde River.

In the early 1960s, as if by fate, the second-largest water conservancy project in Hunan at the time—the Shuangpai Reservoir—was built at the mountain’s outlet, dividing the Xiaoshui River into two sections. Since then, the upper reaches have formed a spectacular landscape of towering mountains and serene lakes. A poet once praised it: “A hundred-mile lake as beautiful as a painting, with green mountains on both banks layered in endless hues”—a most fitting description. Xiaoshui Lake stretches about 100 kilometers in length, varying in width. At its broadest, it spans several miles; at its narrowest, boats glide through tight passages. Its deepest point exceeds 100 meters, with an average depth of over 30 meters, and a total storage capacity of 800 million cubic meters. Along the lake, natural attractions are scattered like stars, historical relics abound, and folk customs are richly diverse. It is an ideal destination for those in Hunan and even Guangdong and Guangxi who seek the wisdom of nature, the joy of water, or simply a place to relax, explore, and reflect on history.

The beauty of Xiaoshui Lake lies in nature. Traveling along the lake, the water is crystal clear, with a surface stretching over a hundred miles as smooth as a mirror. Its waters are clearer than those of the Li River and more graceful than those of West Lake. Small boats shuttle across the lake, while green mountains on both banks roll like waves, with cliffs carved like blades and peaks resembling gods or Buddhas plunging into the water. “The cries of monkeys on both banks never cease, yet the light boat has already passed ten thousand layers of mountains”—the scenery along the way is breathtaking, like a fairyland on earth. Huanglong Mountain lies on the right bank of Xiaoshui Lake. Legend has it that Emperor Shun tasked Yu the Great with taming the floods, and Yu once chained a yellow dragon here, which was later subdued and returned to the sea. The mountain’s ridges resemble a dragon, with lush pines and cypresses atop its rocky “dragon head.” Several small islands dot the lake, their green canopies sheltering them like precious jewels embedded in the water. Downstream from the lake, the Shuangpai Dam rises majestically, its name inscribed by Comrade Tao Zhu. When the floodgates open, the roar is like a tiger’s growl, and mist fills the valley; when closed, the water flows gently, tranquil as a maiden. Three li below the dam lies Fuzhou Island, lying sideways in the river. Legend says that Ehuang and Nüying, wives of Emperor Shun, were searching for him when their boat passed here. Upon hearing of his passing, they were heartbroken and wished to end their lives. Their boat turned into Fuzhou Island, which supported the two imperial consorts as they prepared to leap into the river. For thousands of years, the island has floated as the water rose and sunk as it receded. The island is covered in lush trees year-round, home to flocks of egrets, especially in spring when peach blossoms on the island compete in brilliance, and countless butterflies dance lightly—an enchanting sight. Standing on the island, one can take in the panoramic view of the verdant hills behind the picturesque mountain city, where the four giant living wood characters “Greening the Motherland” are clearly visible, having been recorded in the Guinness World Records. On the western shore of the lake, the Qinglong and Bailong caves complement each other beautifully. Qinglong Cave has three levels, with caves within caves, a marvel of nature. The Ming Dynasty geographer Xu Xiake called it “the finest mountain retreat I have ever chosen.” Bailong Cave is unfathomably deep, with a stone hall spanning a hundred yards that can accommodate thousands of people, a true underground wonder. These attractions form a unique natural scenic line along Xiaoshui Lake, each with its own distinct style.

The charm of Xiaoshui Lake lies in its culture. The area is rich in historical sites, exuding an ancient aura, particularly the Eight Scenic Spots of Jiangcun. Upstream on Xiaoshui Lake lies Fanyao Village, where Emperor Shun’s younger brother Xiang was enfeoffed as a marquis, and where the Bi Pavilion, also known as the Xiang Temple, was built. The *Mencius* records: “He was enfeoffed at Youbi.” The Tang Dynasty’s Liu Zongyuan once conducted a special study on it, leaving behind records. It is said that Xiang and Shun were half-brothers, both students of Emperor Yao, but Xiang, in his quest for the throne, repeatedly plotted with his mother to harm Shun. When Yao abdicated in favor of Shun, Shun repaid evil with kindness, still enfeoffing Xiang as a marquis to govern the south. Overcome with gratitude and remorse, Xiang followed in the footsteps of his former teacher Emperor Yao and came here, giving rise to today’s Fanyao Village. Today, the ruins of the ancient village feature intricately carved beams and painted rafters, upturned eaves, and crisscrossing streets and alleys. Jiangcun Wen Tower, a five-story hexagonal structure built of bluestone, is said to house several imperial edicts of Emperor Shun for governing the nation. In Feixian Rock, stone tables, stools, and cups come to life, believed to be the divine cave where Emperor Shun once invited immortals and friends. Ma Miao, by Xiaoshui Lake, is said to be where the immortal nun Shen Yunying, deeply moved by Shun’s virtue, practiced and attained enlightenment. Pilgrims still flock here. Even more remarkable is the Huanglong Mountain scenic area, where an 80-meter-high exposed rock cave houses a Qing Dynasty hanging coffin placed in an unreachable spot, the coffin remarkably well-preserved, leaving behind an eternal mystery. Additionally, to the north of Xiaoshui Lake lies the Wenchang Pavilion, to the east the Lizhi Pavilion, to the west Zhang Fei’s military camp on Zhaiziling during the Three Kingdoms period, and to the south the mass grave of Taiping Rebellion martyrs—each evoking a sense of nostalgia, as the green mountains remain while the sun sets time and again.