Pugong Mountain

Pugong Mountain

Pugong Mountain is the northernmost spur of the Dabie Mountains, located 4 kilometers south of Xixian County and on the southern bank of the Huai River. Here, the Huai River bends three times following the contours of the mountain, forming an inverted “U” shape. The mountain reflects the long Huai River, and whenever it glows in the light, it is also called Floating Light Mountain. As it is the first mountain seen when traveling south from Kaifeng along the 800-li stretch of the Huang-Huai Plain, the great Northern Song Dynasty literary figure Su Dongpo, upon passing this mountain, was struck by its abrupt and unique presence, so different from the surrounding landscape. He wrote the inscription “The Number One Peak of the Southeast,” which has been passed down through the ages. Pugong Mountain is rich in Mian jade. Historical records state that chess pieces made from this jade were once presented as tribute to the imperial court, earning it fame throughout the land.

Stretching from east to west, Pugong Mountain connects to Heishan Mountain in the east, extends to its main peak, then descends westward past Fengwa Village, turns south to connect with Caomao Mountain, and forms an irregular arc. It stretches intermittently, undulating for about 20 li. Across the Huai River, it faces Qinglong Mountain on the northern bank. The three mountains stand together in a triangular formation, gradually exuding the majestic aura of a crouching tiger or coiled dragon. The vast and fertile soil of Xixian glows brilliantly under the sun; the dense, overlapping peaks of Pugong Mountain rise high, with clouds and mist towering into the sky. Ancient people praised: “The State of Xi is a place where talent gathers, nurturing the extraordinary beauty of China; Pugong Mountain is also a site for spiritual cultivation, where earthly treasures converge.”

In the past, Pugong Mountain was covered with ancient trees and tall vines, with pine branches stretching across the sky. From afar, it appeared vast and lush, with purple mist rising like fog; up close, one could hear birds chirping, insects buzzing, and the murmuring of streams. Entering the mountain, one would find mossy paths, three ravines and six valleys, cliffs to climb, waterfalls hanging like silver rivers, and splashing pearls and jade. Wild foxes, wolves, and other creatures roamed, while fruit foxes and tree badgers climbed the vines. Fragrant orchids grew quietly in the valley depths, and ginkgo trees stood tall, reaching for the sky. By the stream, listening to the spring water was like hearing the dragon’s roar from beyond the heavens; near the valley, facing the wind felt like hearing the tiger’s growl beneath the pine shade. At this moment, you would surely realize—what makes a mountain truly great, and what makes water truly deep? A single unspoken boulder possesses a profound, ancient beauty. The elegance of Mount Emei, the peril of Mount Hua, the wonder of Mount Huang—all are right before your eyes. The ravines and streams twist and turn, and though they lack the fury of mighty rivers, they flow steadily, day and night, with water giving rise to mist, and mist embracing the mountains. In spring, they nourish all things; in summer, they rise to the treetops as rain; in autumn, they drift onto the leaves and turn them red. All of this gives Pugong Mountain a vibrant life force. Nine springs, nine streams, nine dragons; three waterfalls, three pools, three crescent moons. When you walk to the summit of Pugong Mountain, flanked by pine trees along the path, shaded by the dense canopy above, and gaze out at the long Huai River, the mountain and water scenery stretch out before your eyes—what joy there is in this moment. Then, the sound of a wooden fish being tapped “dut-dut” comes from the mottled yellow walls, accompanied by the wind chimes under the upturned temple eaves, and you suddenly remember: ah, the temple fair on the third day of the third lunar month has arrived again.

Due to its unique geographical location, Pugong Mountain was a sacred pilgrimage site for the people of over 80 counties across seven prefectures in Henan and Anhui. Every year on the third day of the third lunar month, when people went out to enjoy the spring, and on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, when they climbed high, men, women, old and young would flock to the mountain to tour and pay their respects. They would recall the rustic charm of “selling cucumbers under an old willow wearing ox-hide clothing,” hear the bird song of “the cuckoo crying under the evening rain,” and immerse themselves in the freshness of “a sandy path between pines, clean without a trace of mud.” Ascending to the summit, one could watch the sunrise over the sea of clouds, witness the sunset glow over Pugong Mountain, enjoy a picnic bonfire, and listen to fishermen singing at dusk—what a delightful experience that is.

For thousands of years, the Pugong Mountain Temple Fair has been largest in scale on the third day of the third lunar month. The traditional Chinese Temple Fair on the third day of the third lunar month is a large-scale folk event held to celebrate the birth of the Queen Mother of the West, revered in Taoism. On this day, the Jade Emperor and the Queen Mother of the West in heaven hold a grand Peach Banquet to entertain the various deities. The thirty-six grotto-heavens and seventy-two blessed lands of Taoist sacred sites across the human world also hold celebratory events to signify the joy shared by heaven and earth, and by gods and humans. Before the Ming Dynasty, Pugong Mountain held its temple fair on the third day of the third lunar month to commemorate the death anniversary of the Taoist priest Pugong. But during the Ming Dynasty, with the rise of Daoist worship, the commemoration of Pugong was changed to the third day of the third lunar month temple fair, and Pugong Temple was renamed the True Martial Ancestral Temple, revered in Taoism. On the day of the fair, pilgrims from as far as 1,800 li away—including Zhoukou, Chenzhou, Yingzhou, Ruzhou, Caizhou, Guangzhou, and Puzhou—flocked to Pugong Mountain. Historical records state that the number of visitors reached over 100,000 on the busiest days. Whether Buddhist, Taoist, or Confucian believers, devout men and women from all directions poured in like a tide, gathering in the ancient city of Xizhou. Even today, during the fair, the roads—both major and minor—are packed shoulder to shoulder, bustling like woven fabric. People slowly make their way along several winding and rugged mountain paths. Along the roadsides, vendors sell fruits, drinks, incense, candles, paper money, and firecrackers. There are also all kinds of jade antiques, worn accessories, children’s longevity locks, and adults’ peace amulets—truly a colorful and joyous scene. A satirical poem goes: “On Pugong Mountain stands a temple, small but higher than the mountain. A sip of its holy spring cures all ills, Pugong’s blessings last a thousand years to this day.”

Pugong Mountain, a spur of the Dabie Mountains, covers an area of 4 square kilometers and has a maximum elevation of 149.3 meters. It is located on the southern bank of the Huai River, 4 kilometers south of Xixian County in Henan Province. Surrounded by the Huai River, shrouded in mist and rosy clouds, with green mountains reflected and floating light shining golden, it is also called Floating Light Mountain or Fuyi Mountain. Legend has it that during the Tang Dynasty, a Taoist priest named Pupu lived in seclusion on this mountain, gathering herbs, refining elixirs, and healing the sick. His virtuous deeds earned the admiration of the people, and later generations renamed the mountain Pugong Mountain in his honor. In January of the lunar calendar in 1080 AD, the famous Northern Song Dynasty literary figure Su Dongpo, who had been demoted to the position of deputy commander in Huangzhou due to the “Wutai Poetry Case,” passed through Xixian County in Henan and visited here. The *Henan General Gazetteer* records: “This is the ‘Number One Peak of the Southeast’ mentioned by Su Dongpo.” A stele erected in the Ming Dynasty praised it as the “Number One Peak of the Southeast.” For thousands of years, the Pugong Mountain Temple Fair on the third day of the third lunar month has been quite grand, drawing people from hundreds of li around to pray and give thanks. During that time, the mountain and its surroundings are bustling with activity. Xia Lai of the Ming Dynasty wrote a poem in praise: “Pugong Mountain winds around embracing the Huai’s flow, layer upon layer of sunny ridges float with emerald hues. It seems like a lotus just freshly carved, its vital energy not yet fully contained.”