Ancient Canal Forest Sea

Ancient Canal Forest Sea

Guan County is the largest breeding base of Populus tomentosa in China, with five major forest farms stretching across 120,000 acres of majestic white poplar trees. Along ditches, canals, and roadsides, white poplars stand tall, extending over a total length of 10,000 kilometers. It is no exaggeration to say: the white poplar forests bring Guan County gentle breezes, light rains, more abundant oxygen, and bluer skies. The white poplar forests are the pride of Guan County and a magnificent sight.

Spanning a hundred li along the ancient bed of the Yellow River, lies a vast and lush expanse of white poplars. Here, the grass is dry, the sand soft, the woods dense, and the breeze gentle, with fresh air that invigorates the lungs. The scenery is delightful in all four seasons, charming in both subtle and bold displays.

Listening to the Waves

Of all the attractions of the Ancient Canal Forest, none is more enticing than listening to the rustling of the trees. Find a patch of soft grass in the deep shade of the forest, sit down on the ground, and enjoy this natural symphony. When a light breeze blows, the poplar forest begins to whisper—hundreds of millions of leaves gently clap as they rustle, creating a delicate "whooshing" sound that calms the mind and soothes the spirit. When a strong wind rises, a sweeping "whoosh" fills the dense woods—it rises and falls, speeds up and slows down, thundering between heaven and earth without being deafening, howling around you without being sharp. Close your eyes, and it feels as if you're standing in the middle of the ocean, surrounded by raging winds and towering waves, as if the whole earth is gently undulating. If you climb to a high point and look out, you’ll see the endless forest sea, with green waves rolling, and buildings among the trees appearing and disappearing like sea rocks, creating a truly spectacular scene.

The Quirky Charms of White Poplars

While exploring the forest, take a moment to rest and closely observe the white poplars around you. Admiring their upright forms, you may find yourself immersed in the poetic imagery of the famous essay "Ode to the Poplar," and you’ll likely echo the praises of writer Mao Dun for these trees. In truth, Populus tomentosa has many lesser-known and fascinating traits.

The “Eyes.” One of the most captivating features of Populus tomentosa is the numerous “eyes” of various sizes on the trunks—scars left where branches have fallen. These scars strikingly resemble human eyes. Not only do they come in diverse shapes, but they also appear vividly expressive. The full range of human emotions can be found in the “eyes” of the poplar trees. Some seem to glare angrily, others look terrified, some convey tender affection, some appear teary-eyed, some are deep in thought, some are filled with longing, and others are large and vacant, seemingly lost in thought. These peculiar “poplar eyes” often spark the imagination. A common game among visitors is to search for “eyes” that match the eight expressions: joy, anger, sorrow, happiness, surprise, worry, thoughtfulness, and longing.

Poplar Catkins. Throughout history, countless poets and writers have penned odes to willow catkins. But compared to poplar catkins, willow catkins are truly “small potatoes.” Even when spring is still chilly, Populus tomentosa is already covered with catkin-like flowers resembling beards. Soon after, it releases clouds of white fluff that drift aimlessly, east to west, light as feathers or cotton. They possess the purity of snow, yet snow lacks their softness. Visitors can delight in the spectacle of “goose-feather snow” swirling through the air, brushing against their faces without cold, or sticking to clothes without dampness. Though it’s a bit of a nuisance when the fluff gets “all over your head and face, even into your mouth and nose,” it remains one of the great joys of the poplar forest.

Poplar Husband and Wife. Populus tomentosa trees are dioecious, but it’s often hard for people to tell male from female. However, observant visitors can make an educated guess based on bark color and tree shape—who is the “husband” and who is the “wife.” According to experts, the billowing poplar catkins all come from the female trees. Female trees bloom and hold onto their flowers for a long time, waiting until they’ve sent off their countless “children.” Male trees, on the other hand, bloom for just a few days before their catkins fall, as the saying goes, “When the poplar catkins are gone, the cuckoo cries.” In a small clearing deep in the forest lies a lonely grave, the resting place of a devoted couple. Beside the grave stand two poplars, one male and one female, growing side by side. The “eyes” on their trunks are especially vivid. Romantic couples often visit to gaze at the “eyes,” guess which is male and which is female, and thereby affirm their own love bonds.

A Paradise for Birds

The poplar forest is a paradise for birds. With increased environmental awareness, highly toxic pesticides are no longer used in nearby fields or woods, allowing birds to thrive here carefree. At dawn, while the forest mist is still lingering, birds begin chirping and calling to one another. Some hop among the branches, others chase each other through the woods, some soar together high into the sky and circle away like a wisp of light cloud, while others return to their nests in unison, singing melodiously and creating a lively racket. Thousands of birds—cuckoos, magpies, indigo birds, tits, and many unnamed species—inhabit this paradise. Their colorful plumage, melodious songs, lively movements, and the spectacular sight of them flying and landing together create yet another enchanting feature of the forest.

Autumn Colors of the Frosty Forest

The autumn scenery here has a unique charm. When the air turns crisp and the first cold dew falls, the once emerald-green sea of poplars suddenly changes color: golden leaves overhead filter the sunlight into warm brightness, while frost-covered leaves carpet the ground beneath your feet, rustling softly as you step on them. Leaves of various other trees turn shades of red, orange, brown, and tan, creating a riot of colors. In the orchards within the woods, hawthorns like coral beads, grapes like purple agate, and apples like young girls’ cheeks hang from the branches, adding splashes of color to the frost-kissed forest. Even though the world outside grows colder, the area here remains bathed in warm hues. When the autumn wind rises, northern geese fly south across the sky, and fallen leaves flutter through the woods—the forest takes on yet another mood.

Snow-Weighed Winter Woods

As winter arrives, visitors become scarce. Yet the winter forest holds its own breathtaking sights, with a vast, solemn, and tranquil atmosphere unmatched by other seasons. Climb to a high vantage point and look out over the forest—endless blue sky, boundless woods. If you’re lucky enough to encounter “frost flowers” (rime), the entire poplar forest becomes draped in silvery white, transforming into a jade-and-pearl woodland. Walking through it feels like entering a fairyland. After heavy snowfall, the area becomes a true “snowfield.” The contrast between the pure white snow and the deep blue-green woods is striking, solemn, and majestic—like an ink painting by a master artist.

Travel Tips: The Ancient Canal Forest is located 5 kilometers west of the county town. Follow National Highway 329 westward to Tangsi Forest Farm, then head north into the Ancient Canal. Drive north along the forest road, and return to the county town via the Guan County–Beiguantao Highway.